Karambit folding knifes an others

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Dec 4, 2014
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Hello there. I've been using a forge for a few years now just making little things. Like a metal frame battery holder for my father in laws trailer. Coat hooks and just other things. So I've got an upgrade idea for the lock back folding knives. It sounds good in theory but will see once its made. Ive only made 2 knives this hole time out of 5160. And after reading and talking with a few others, the few plates of CPM 154 won't do me any good without a heat treating oven. So I'm going to stick with the 5160 for know an see how they come out. I have a few questions about the frame of the knives. I don't really want to make the hole thing out of 5160. I think some titanium or some cheep 420 will work better. But how thick would be a good place to start on the frame. And on one of these I'd like to place a secondary lock. Kinda like the axis lock on benchmade. but more it pushes forward and locks the blade in place and pull back to be able to release the blade so using the normal lock it will release. I seen some secondary locks on a few knives amf just want to try it out. this one is mine its a tester and this one is going to be the karambit. EDC knife. It'll be first so I can learn from my mistakes when making the others for christmas. I've looked all over and found the design Iike. Sorry that I'm coping someone's design. They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. So im taking a straight blade design an making a folder out of it. Anyways. Anyone know how big the inside of a karambit ring is normally. I've read 1 inch but would like to ask to make sure. I've got medium hands. Also I've found knife makers supply. And usa Knife maker. Im looking at the handle materials. I want something thats got a nice grip but wont freeze your hands like steel in the winter does. So I'm looking at micarta or G10. ive read that micarta is really grippy but can be a bit soft. Easy to dent and chip if not made well. And G10 is just stronger but not as grippy. Anyone with some experience on these. If you could weight in and just tell me what your preference is and why. These are my first folding knifes so I dont expect them to be shining art. But I do want them to be decent and good so they want to use them. Anyway thanks
 
in my experience, g10 files away almost as fast as pine wood, and ironwood files away faster than micarta. micarta seems to be much more dense than g10. home made micarta is very soft by comparison to real micarta. make sure to use the real stuff, avoid ebay where most people make micarta with epoxy themselves. ( real micarta is made with phenolic resin).
 
Just my opinion, but I wouldn't even think of doing any folder until I had completed dozens of pretty flawless fixed blades. Making a folder that actually functions isn't as easy as it may appear. It requires extremely close fit up and perfectly round and perpendicular holes.
 
in my experience, g10 files away almost as fast as pine wood, and ironwood files away faster than micarta. micarta seems to be much more dense than g10. home made micarta is very soft by comparison to real micarta. make sure to use the real stuff, avoid ebay where most people make micarta with epoxy themselves. ( real micarta is made with phenolic resin).

So on the micarta Is the stuff from USA KNIFE or knife makers good.

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't even think of doing any folder until I had completed dozens of pretty flawless fixed blades. Making a folder that actually functions isn't as easy as it may appear. It requires extremely close fit up and perfectly round and perpendicular holes.

Thanks for the advice. I chose a lock back or mid lock for this reason. I do have dremel and drills so on. Just no drill press, i have the dremel drill press rig. But yeah. Id like a real drill press. Ive seen guys turn them into mills with really good results. And i dont have a 2×36 belt sander. I bought a 2 inch hand belt sander i use from time to time. Just turned upside down on a little vice to hold it in place while im working.
But the lock back design i have in mind isn't fairly complicated. But I will take extra care to make sure i get all my cuts to fit nicely and the holes to match really well.
If you guys have any advice I'm all ears. I work at a metal shop. We build gun ranges and i work with grinders, belt sanders and so on daily. That's my main area at work so I'm fairly competent with them. Also how thick would you recommend the frame.
 
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You will have a very hard time making a folder without a drill press. Making a mill out of a drill press is DANGEROUS.
 
Remember to wear a Proper Respirator when working G-10 and Micarta most importantly, and IMO the rest of those materials as well. Lung damage is no joke!
 
Lockbacks are not as easy as you might think....The "Relief" angle on the Blade spine is a precision area for Lock-up and release and the area of the Tang and Locking back spacer have to be fit correctly under tension so the blade stays closed.
 
I have a ton of Micarta to use up. I prefer to use G10 as I find it much nicer to work with. But it is more toxic. It's a coin flip. Can't really go wrong either way I think.
 
Lockbacks are not as easy as you might think....The "Relief" angle on the Blade spine is a precision area for Lock-up and release and the area of the Tang and Locking back spacer have to be fit correctly under tension so the blade stays closed.

Thanks. Ive been watching a bunch of videos on making them while i wait for the supplies to get in. I kinda figured if it wasn't done right it wouldn't work right. If theres any advice you can offer little tips you've found to make it work properly I'd be grateful
 
You will have a very hard time making a folder without a drill press. Making a mill out of a drill press is DANGEROUS.

Ive got a dremel drill press jig. I've used it a few times to make some nice hole properly and with a flat bur and small vice to mill out somethings. Just straight down. I marked how deep needed to be shaved and then once i hit that area i marked it on the jig as well. Then just went and made a square. Move it over drop the burr to depth then move the piece over again to cut out everything. Not perfect but worked out. Im sure a mill would be allot better with allot better tolerances. If they needed to be perfect tolerances an everything a mill would be the way I'd go but anyways
 
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I have a ton of Micarta to use up. I prefer to use G10 as I find it much nicer to work with. But it is more toxic. It's a coin flip. Can't really go wrong either way I think.

ok thank you. I've got a nice respirator I had to by for my job. They replace the filters as long as we have the respirator. Ill use it for this
 
A


ok thank you. I've got a nice respirator I had to by for my job. They replace the filters as long as we have the respirator. Ill use it for this
That’s good, replace the filters as often as they will pay for them.
G-10 turns into little fish hooks when you grind it and the only way to get them out of your lungs is after you have assumed room temp!:eek: Micarta releases Formelhyde which pickles your brain ... when you see those older ladies that have been doing ladies hair for 20 plus years walking & talking slow, they have the highest rate of Alshimers of any profession from the formelhyde in the Perm stuff they breathe ...——————-. I won’t use ether material any longer—— I want to keep as many brain cells & Lung Silica as possible!o_O:confused::oops::D
 
That’s good, replace the filters as often as they will pay for them.
G-10 turns into little fish hooks when you grind it and the only way to get them out of your lungs is after you have assumed room temp!:eek: Micarta releases Formelhyde which pickles your brain ... when you see those older ladies that have been doing ladies hair for 20 plus years walking & talking slow, they have the highest rate of Alshimers of any profession from the formelhyde in the Perm stuff they breathe ...——————-. I won’t use ether material any longer—— I want to keep as many brain cells & Lung Silica as possible!o_O:confused::oops::D

Really did not know that. Good thing my lady doesn't use any kinda hair stuff or even worry about getting perms or stuff like that. I didn't know that stuff was that bad though. Respirator is an absolute for this.
 
Really did not know that. Good thing my lady doesn't use any kinda hair stuff or even worry about getting perms or stuff like that. I didn't know that stuff was that bad though. Respirator is an absolute for this.
It’s the long term exposer. Really any fine dust will screw up your lungs over time. Stay safe & have fun..
 
Thanks. Ive been watching a bunch of videos on making them while i wait for the supplies to get in. I kinda figured if it wasn't done right it wouldn't work right. If theres any advice you can offer little tips you've found to make it work properly I'd be grateful
I probably made a couple hundred fixed blade knives and had some time under my belt before tackling folding knives. I would say that you should have all the fundamentals of fixed blade down before you decide on folders. The angle for Relief of a lock back in the blade spine requires a front 90 degree with ZERO Play the back angle is 7-8 degrees angle and the back of this angle is lower on the tang than the blade spine. I suggest you try making a Slipjoint folder before tackling a lockback!
 
A lot of people have suggested not to do what your doing. You seem confident you can make a knife with a dremel. Go for it. Post pictures when your done.

I have a feeling your in for much frustration in your future. Good luck
 
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