Karesuandokniven Älgen, kolstål /Moose, carbon steel/ (model no. 3532)

G

Griffon

Joined
Mar 25, 1999
Messages
514
First impression of this knife is that with a short to medium blade, not too thick, carbon steel, no guard, dangler sheath: This is just what my latest survival course instructors recommended. So thinking out this as a present was a good choice.

The handle, of curly birch, is very comfortable and allows for several different grips and to use plenty of force when cutting.

Its straight blade is good for general purpose work. Comes sharp and with good finish.

The sheath has a plastic insert around the blade.

Fit and finish of and between handle, spacer and "guard" is OK but not quite perfect. Better than could be expected from the relatively low price.

What is lacking is that there's a gap between the "guard" and blade which isn't sealed. I don't hunt myself, but I think those who do would agree with me that this makes this knife less suitable for that kind of work.



Weight: 80 g
Blade length: 85 mm
Blade thickness: 2.5 mm
Overall length: 185 mm
Balance point: At the first finger
Steel: Uddeholm 1770

Karesuandokniven
 
hi Griffon -- thanks for posting this review of the Karesuando. There's something very satisfying about those Nordic designs.

One question -- did your knife come with a secondary bevel, or single bevel? I got a stainless Karesuando blade from Ragnar last year & put an osage orange wood handle on it. It came with a secondary bevel that I worked down to a single. It is my understanding that they use Sandvik 12C27 for these stainless blades & it is impressive, esp for the ridiculously low price. No scientific tests, but I've been using it to cut leather & it holds an edge very well.

Re the gap between blade & guard -- apparently this isn't unusual with Scandinavian knives, but I might seal it up with epoxy, esp. if you might use it for food prep. someday.

Best,

Andrew
 
Thanks for reviewing this knife. I have one of these also, but it has been modified quite a bit. The steel is a carbon steel, not stainless. I was a little dissatisfied with the blade when I first got it... the grinds were uneven, and it was almost dull in spots. I just looked at mine, and it too has the gap between blade and guard... guess I gotta seal it. Anyways... I sent off the knife to a fellow forumite, and he reground the blade so that it was significantly thinner and put a convex edge on it. Now this knife cuts like the dickens. I got a rather nice chunk of wood for it's handle, and I like the spacer of reindeer horn... adds a nice touch. This knife is just small enough that I can place the knife/sheath down into my pocket for daily carry. In fact, it was my EDC of this past week.
In short, it is not a perfect knife... but certainly a nice little scandanavian style to bum around with. If I were to use this in food prep or in skinning, the blade/guard/handle area would have to be sealed somehow. For a box cutter, envelope opener, fuzzy stick maker, etc., it does the job.
This (mine) knife is officially known as the DMP... the "Danbo modified Puuko" Many thanks Danbo.
Mongo
 
I have 2 Karesuando knives purchased from Ragnar's site and they both have secondary bevels. Unusual for Scandinavian blades, but they are very functional knives. On one of them, the grind was uneven in some places, but nothing resharpening and polishing can't fix. Scandinavians aren't as obsessed about these types of things as Americans are. As long as it cuts and is durable, they're happy with it.
 
My Roselli erapukko (the large hunting knife) similarly has an uneven grind; that's part of its charm. Doesn't make any difference in its cutting ability though. These are working tools, after all.
 
Originally posted by andrewb
One question -- did your knife come with a secondary bevel, or single bevel?

...

Re the gap between blade & guard -- apparently this isn't unusual with Scandinavian knives, but I might seal it up with epoxy, esp. if you might use it for food prep. someday.
Click to expand...

Yes, it's got a small secondary bevel, but the change in angle isn't large.

Epoxy seems to be a good recommendation.
 
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