Katana - any "inexpensive" ones which can be actually used and sharpened?

Ronin is a good brand but just as an alternative Musashi and or Musha is a brand worth considering too, they have consistent quality in all their swords. (Musashi is the higher end stuff and Musha is their economy line) I personally have the Tsunami Hoi-Ru and it performs just as well as a blade twice its price. In the 200 range you'll find some great deals on them. If you want to go a bit higher Paul Chen makes swords in all price ranges.

But did you want the sword to come dull to sharpen yourself?? Part of the katana's cutting power is in the way the edge is shaped, here's a link for that http://www.toyamaryu.org/edge_geometry.htm It's important to know how to sharpen these properly but if you wanted to try it anyways I guess it's up to what you prefer now. Happy hunting!
 
Ronin is a good brand but just as an alternative Musashi and or Musha is a brand worth considering too, they have consistent quality in all their swords. (Musashi is the higher end stuff and Musha is their economy line) I personally have the Tsunami Hoi-Ru and it performs just as well as a blade twice its price. In the 200 range you'll find some great deals on them. If you want to go a bit higher Paul Chen makes swords in all price ranges.

But did you want the sword to come dull to sharpen yourself?? Part of the katana's cutting power is in the way the edge is shaped, here's a link for that http://www.toyamaryu.org/edge_geometry.htm It's important to know how to sharpen these properly but if you wanted to try it anyways I guess it's up to what you prefer now. Happy hunting!

I was hoping for the sword to come sharp. Is it a time consuming process to sharpen yourself? Can it be done without training?
 
sharpening a sword is very difficult; not to say it can't be done, but I think I would be more likely to ruin a sword than to make it sharper. Especially with the grind of a katana it would be very challenging
 
I have been wondering if I am being totally realistic about wanting to eventually find something under $300.00 which I can sharpen myself without knowing anything about the sharpening process used for expensive Japanese Katanas, and be used for light to medium cutting fun?

What do you think of this link?
http://sbg-sword-store.sword-buyers-guide.com/ronin.html

To try and tune a katana edge without training is to fail miserably.....trial and error is not often rewarded in this case.

I have used and recommend a Raptor Series by CAS Hanwei...the street cost is under $300.00. The wrapping is solid, the core is solid, they have an excellent warranty and a proven track record. You may find a superficially more attractive sword at that price level, but you won't find anything better made.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
By one sharp do not attempt yourself. Practical or practical plus will give years of cutfing fun. When they dullbthen you have good sword for kata practice.
 
sharpening a sword is very difficult; not to say it can't be done, but I think I would be more likely to ruin a sword than to make it sharper. Especially with the grind of a katana it would be very challenging

I wonder how long the blade would still be sharp after using it for tatami slicing, jog cutting, etc.? I have a feeling I will not be happy when I get an estimate on sending one out to be sharpened.
 
I appreciate the advice and the warnings too. Is it quite expensive to send one out to be sharpened? I heard once that the charge is by the inch, but no idea how much each inch costs to have sharpened.
 
for a 300$ sword I would wager you would be better off buying a new one than getting a professional to sharpen it
 
I appreciate the advice and the warnings too. Is it quite expensive to send one out to be sharpened? I heard once that the charge is by the inch, but no idea how much each inch costs to have sharpened.

A 21" Howard Clark Wakizashi cost me $1,400 to have sharpened by a competent polisher about 6 years ago....that's about $66.00/inch. A top polisher is about $200-$300/inch. On thing to keep in mind is that a novice polisher might do the foundation polish that sets the new edge for free or maybe $100.00 for the practice....it doesn't need a finish polish, just needs the edges reset.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I sharpen my machete with a file. It works great.

Katana do not have a secondary bevel....and have a hard edge that files have trouble with....Katana are not machetes.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
It's also worth noting that the steel on the edge of a katana will be much harder than the steel on the edge of most machetes, so a file wouldn't even work on a katana.
 
A 21" Howard Clark Wakizashi cost me $1,400 to have sharpened by a competent polisher about 6 years ago....that's about $66.00/inch. A top polisher is about $200-$300/inch. On thing to keep in mind is that a novice polisher might do the foundation polish that sets the new edge for free or maybe $100.00 for the practice....it doesn't need a finish polish, just needs the edges reset.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

I had no idea of any of that. That is way out of my budget range for the 66.00 per inch, but the $100.00 for the whole thing is much better. Is it difficult to find a contact list of novice polishers?
 
Is it difficult to find a contact list of novice polishers?

Yes unfortunately, it is almost impossible to find out what novices are accepting heavily discounted commissions. It is POSSIBLE that someone on SFI(SwordForums) is keeping a list, but I have not gone there in some time.

Good luck.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Not to derail the thread, but is anyone aware of field-sharpening techniques that may have been employed for katana or other "polished" weapons historically? I figure it must have been done at times.
 
Not to derail the thread, but is anyone aware of field-sharpening techniques that may have been employed for katana or other "polished" weapons historically? I figure it must have been done at times.

River rocks historically, diamond hones contemporarily...both produce a very, very thin micro serrated secondary bevel that can be easily polished out by a properly trained polisher.

The polish reveals the hamon at the finish stages, I have been told by two very good togishi that if there is no hamon to reveal, and the user is less concerned about aesthetics than sharpness and durability, that the polish only need to go to the binsui-do or maybe the kasei-do stones, kasei being the final foundation stone.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
the way i resharpen my "cutting sword" ie the one my wife wont use on me if i fuck it up, is to use a ceramic stick, not a small rod but the large, sharpen your kitchen knife to go after micheal meyers ceramic rod..... as long as your not going to cry in a corner when you slightly scratch the not so perfect-non-traditional polish that cas iberia (paul chen) finish their blades with and actually use it to..........CUT youll be ok. ceramic is the way to go. not an arkansas stone, not a sharpening steel and for god sakes not a grinder.
 
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