Katana grind (part 2)

[Richard338]

I finished the pre-HT grinding on on my stock removal CPM 3V katana and am about to send it to Peters. I will admit a silly mistake in case it helps someone else.

Stacy warned me that I can only remove more material, not put anything back. Luckily the fix involved a few minutes of extra grinding.

I initially profiled the entire blade including the steps down to the narrower tang before grinding bevels. Some non-traditional examples have a plunge line well in front of any guard (tsuba).
I had been making a plunge right at the step to the tang. (I wasn't thinking it through yet).
Now looking at tsuba examples, I always see a triangular hole, so I looked closer at some bare blade photos and sure enough the grinds typically extend right past the junction and onto the tang. It was very easy to go back to 36 grit and run right over my plunge, blending it into one very easy grind.
I'm posting a few pics to show the profile, the handle region and the ioni (ridge along the spine).
I also got some terotuf in the mail today and will start planning the handle parts.

 

[Tin.Man]

Beautiful work! Cant wait to see it finished

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Looks good!

Before you send it off, make sure the nakago (tang) tapers back toward the nakago-jiri (end of the tang) . The habaki has to slide over the tang and seat on the machi. In the photo, the nakago looks thicker.

Here is a good name and explanation chart:

 

[Richard338]

Thanks again. It's in the mail.
I extended the grind at the same angle onto the tang. It does get thicker on the edge where the tang gets narrower, but perhaps that's also how thick it is at that point further up...
The first thing I'll do when I get it back is take some measurements and work on the habaki.
If necessary I'll thin the tang as needed to get a good fit.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Sound good.