Kazak Pro or Hapstone R2?

Joined
May 14, 2023
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4
I lost my edgepro apex of many years somehow in the move to the new house. I liked it but after some research, I think I would like an updated system that holds the knife. I need/would like to do mostly kitchen knives up to a 12” brisket slicer and a few folding knives. I have searched the forums yet remain torn between these 2. Both look to be able to do up to 12” knives. The Hapstone included clamps are said to be better but the Kazak looks beefier and has what’s looks to be a lot nicer/faster angle adjuster. I’m not looking for the best “value” I’m looking for the best in this general price range. I would also get the light if I go with the Kazak. I looked at the TS prof and liked the K3 but it looks very large and not very stowable. I would be open to other suggestions as well. Thanks in advance -jeff in Ohio
 
I lost my edgepro apex of many years somehow in the move to the new house. I liked it but after some research, I think I would like an updated system that holds the knife. I need/would like to do mostly kitchen knives up to a 12” brisket slicer and a few folding knives. I have searched the forums yet remain torn between these 2. Both look to be able to do up to 12” knives. The Hapstone included clamps are said to be better but the Kazak looks beefier and has what’s looks to be a lot nicer/faster angle adjuster. I’m not looking for the best “value” I’m looking for the best in this general price range. I would also get the light if I go with the Kazak. I looked at the TS prof and liked the K3 but it looks very large and not very stowable. I would be open to other suggestions as well. Thanks in advance -jeff in Ohio
Have a look at the new Hapstone RS, there is a thread on it further down the page. Might be what you are looking for.
 
You can't go wrong with a Kazak Pro, but I would suggest getting the platform ("Podium") too. One of the only negatives with the Kazak system, is the fact that they don't have a lot of clamp choices. You can solve that by getting "Gearconnect" adapters if you want to use Hapstone R2 or other clamps on the Kazak bar.

If you plan on going for a Hapstone R2, then the R2 "Standard" is your best bet.
 
I would choose KAZAK PRO, for sharpening long flexible knives, you just need to buy 2 additional clamps. Angle adjustment, the ability to inspect the result of the work by removing the clamps with a knife, are expensive
 
Yo Jeff!! You pick one yet?
Yes. I ordered the Kazak Pro with the EP matrix diamond set. I had the Hapstone in the cart, cleared it, then put the Kazak in the cart and checked out. I was “ on the fence till the very end” Hopefully, I like my decision after using it.
 
If you don't mind, where'd you order it from ? Did you get the light set and all that ?
 
I got it from Gritomatic. In all my indecision, I forgot to add the light kit to my cart. I will get it ordered as well.
 
Wonder what’s the difference between the pro and the model 100 is? Oh well, that’s for another thread.
Congrats! Let us know what you think?
 
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I got it from Gritomatic. In all my indecision, I forgot to add the light kit to my cart. I will get it ordered as well.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Let us know how it goes when you receive it, get it set up, and have done a few knives. I am positive you will love it. :)
 
Hellooooooooooooooo Jeff !
Surely you've gotten your Kazak by now and got it set up ? Tell all of us sitting here waiting on your thoughts about it. WE THE PEOPLE WANT TO KNOW !!
 
I've been looking for information on the set-up and use of the Kazak Pro Black. Purchased mine several months back from Gritomatic and finally got it set up.

First impressions:
There are NO instructions on how to set up the sharpener, no documents included and no video links. My son and I looked for vids and finally found one that went at double speed. We kept pausing to see pics of where each piece went, and were able to get it assembled. I spoke with Chris at Gritomatic and he's promised to get a video out there in the near future.

The machining quality is top notch! Gritomatic includes a 3-D printed piece to keep the clamping mechanism base level. The light is very nice, though I found that a second light, like the video showed, would help with my nearly 70 year old eyes. It's on order.

The clamping system is limited and, having seen in this thread an adapter, will certainly give that a try so I can use clamps from other makers.

My biggest issue thus far is the way the clamp mechanism is set up. Although Gritomatic was provided the 3-D printed brace for the plate the clamp system sits on, the holder itself sits at a 9º+ angle. So I've got the mechanical angle indicator reading what is probably the correct angle and the digital inclinometer reading about 10º less.

This is causing me some frustration and I'm hopeful that someone on here more intelligent than me (which isn't saying much) can offer some guidance.

I've sharpened 2 knives thus far, an old Henkels wood handled slicer and a fighter of questionable origin purchased on the forum, that I was willing to sacrifice. I purchased my Kazak with the 5 piece diamond set and have since added 4 CBN stones, an ultrafine Spyderco ceramic and a few Kangaroo strops.

The Henkel will now slice effortlessly through newspaper, the fighter now has a very high polished edge with steep angles and will cut standard paper, even with the obtuse edge.

I'm still working my way up to the higher end knives and practicing on cheap ones.

Hope this helps someone and perhaps those that have been working with this setup can offer me some help as well.
 
My biggest issue thus far is the way the clamp mechanism is set up. Although Gritomatic was provided the 3-D printed brace for the plate the clamp system sits on, the holder itself sits at a 9º+ angle. So I've got the mechanical angle indicator reading what is probably the correct angle and the digital inclinometer reading about 10º less.

Happy to help if I can, I also have the Kazak Pro Black. Can you explain the holder vs mechanical vs digital measurements and what exactly you mean by these so I can try to see if I can help?

FYI, the mechanical gauge on your Kazak can be calibrated and adjusted if necessary. The Gritomatic brace is really just additional support if you want to use it, it's not really a necessity.

Are you zeroing your angle cube on the same level as the knife clamps, or are you zeroing on the platform? You should zero it on the same level as the clamp mechanism before measuring your sharpening angle on top of the stone or stone holders. The top of the black holder that holds the brass rotating mechanism is a good spot to use for zeroing your angle cube. (Green circle on the pic I added).

Screenshot_2023-08-23-22-57-09-989_com.android.chrome-edit.jpg
 
Thank you for the input! I'll adjust the base accordingly, however, leveling the clamps will cause the rack, (of the rack and pinion adjustment) to lean 10º.
The relationship of the adjuster with the rod guide to the base always remains the same, however, I'll certainly give it a try and see if I can wrap my old brain around it.

Really appreciate you reaching out. Gabe
 
Thank you for the input! I'll adjust the base accordingly, however, leveling the clamps will cause the rack, (of the rack and pinion adjustment) to lean 10º.
The relationship of the adjuster with the rod guide to the base always remains the same, however, I'll certainly give it a try and see if I can wrap my old brain around it.

Really appreciate you reaching out. Gabe

No problem Gabe. There is no need to level the base or clamps, you can set it to any orientation you comfortably prefer and then lock it in this position before sharpening.

The only very important thing is to always zero your angle cube on the small platform that I indicated above (green circle) before you measure your sharpening angle. Most angle cubes have a button to zero it. This zero level will be your reference for measuring and adjusting your sharpening angle.

FYI, in case it doesn't make sense - zeroing a digital angle cube basically gives it a new point of reference to base it's measurements from. In the case of your Kazak, that plane of reference should be the centerline of the knife from spine to edge in our case where we use angle cubes for sharpening. The area that I drew a green circle around (in my post above) will give you a point parallel to your knife when it is clamped. Whether the whole Kazak unit is at a bit of an up or down angle does not matter, as long as you zero your angle cube on this reference. You're basically telling the cube the new level point to work from is where you've zeroed it. This does not have to be level with the horizon, your table or anything else.
 
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