Keen Kutter with problems...

[Forgery62]

A friend gave me this big (4 1/2#) Keen Kutter Ct. pattern(?) and I don't know how to proceed. It was painted silver and I used a wire wheel to remove most of it. As you can see there is a major bite out of the heel. Should I just sharpen it and ignore or try to reshape the bit a bit?
Also the handle tho lovely seems a tad short and slender at 27" for such a large axe. What do you folks think? The handle seems to have a marking on it which reads
-----Mfg. Co.
Gold Coin
Is that a known handle supplier?
Any advice or opinions sought...

Hey! It looks like I'm getting the "hang" of posting pics. Look out forum!

 

[Fmont]

Keen Kutters are usually pretty thin. I think you can get a pretty good line to the toe.

Handle looks pretty. It's a really cool axe. You have a very nice friend!

 

[Fmont]

Here's about what I see, and it'll probably want a full banana if it's to be used:

 

[junkenstien]

Is it an overcoat bit?Can you get a picture looking down on the break?

 

[Fmont]

It's a Simmons era so it should be a cast Kelly, if I'm recalling correctly.

 

[Forgery62]

Thanks for the input!
I don't know what an "overcoat" bit is nor do I know what the "break" is..
In researching a different handle I determined that the manufacturer of the KK's handle is Tatum, an old Ct. company, but as I typed that I remembered that I want to verify the pattern. Does it look like a Connecticut pattern to you?

 

[Peck Price]

I am about as far from an expert as you can get but it has some resemblance to a rafting pattern. The handle is probably the best looking handle I have seen.

 

[Brian Rust]

Man that is a really nice handle. If it feels okay for you to swing I would leave it for sure. Also, Fmont’s advice is good. That is what I would do if it were mine. And it looks pretty convex so a banana grind would be the best route. There are many diagrams of this grind on the Internet. Just google “axe grinds”.

 

[Yankee Josh]

Thanks for the input!
I don't know what an "overcoat" bit is nor do I know what the "break" is..
In researching a different handle I determined that the manufacturer of the KK's handle is Tatum, an old Ct. company, but as I typed that I remembered that I want to verify the pattern. Does it look like a Connecticut pattern to you?

Forgive my horrible drawing. But here's the difference between an inlaid bit and an overlaid, or overcoat, bit.

Here is an example of an inlaid bit. Hard to get a photo of so the fuzzy pic actually shows it better.

You can see it's inserted. Whereas an overlaid looks like this;

It's all very interesting and very cool...I think your axe is a Connecticut pattern. Trying to visualize the original lines and i believe that's what is is. Have a great evening.

 

[junkenstien]

Bit looks kind of long for a ct but maybe it was.Gonna be more of a Michigan now I would think.Where it chipped or broke off by the edge and bottom of the cheek.Overcoat of hard steel or mono steel.Only Keen Kutter I have is a wore out overcoat.

 

[quinton]

I have an older Plumb that looks like your KK. I really don't think they are Connecticut patterns. If I were to bet, I would say Plumb made that KK as well.

 

[americanstrat98]

That should clean up really well. I don't believe it is a Connecticut pattern though.

Here is an original Collins Leg. Connecticut on a 27" Collins handle.
P1040278 by Kyle Carpenter, on Flickr

When I got the handle it was loose, so I put a new fatwood wedge and oiled it. It lasted all of about 20 minutes hah. I had to make a copy on a hickory blank to replace it, but I got it back in shape with a new handle and it is a sweet set up. I say give your axe a whirl the way it is before you go lengthening the handle. THis 3.3lbs head is just the ticket for limbing, and felling in tight spaces.
P1040280 by Kyle Carpenter, on Flickr

 

[Curt Hal]

Unless I had a really specific reason in mind, or I was under 5’ tall, I’d want at least 32” on a 4.5 lb head, maybe even 34”.