Keep edge from being wide

[Bigco31707]

Keep having the same problem on several blades when I go to sharpen them. As the photo attached shows as I sharpen the edge around the curve and tip keeps getting wide. I have read here and other forums to try and keep this from happening but have made no progress. I'm currently using a DMT aligner system I used to use and a Lansky system I now use. Same issue with both systems. Anyone have any helpful advice or another system I should go to? I have some water stones but really like the lansky system and diamond stone plus the extras I have added. Also is they're a good way to fix the damage already done?
Thanks,

 

[bucketstove]

Keep having the same problem on several blades when I go to sharpen them. As the photo attached shows as I sharpen the edge around the curve and tip keeps getting wide. I have read here and other forums to try and keep this from happening but have made no progress. I'm currently using a DMT aligner system I used to use and a Lansky system I now use. Same issue with both systems. Anyone have any helpful advice or another system I should go to? I have some water stones but really like the lansky system and diamond stone plus the extras I have added. Also is they're a good way to fix the damage already done?
Thanks,

Hi,
What have you tried or what are you doing exactly ?
Did edge come even width from factory?
Is the current angle the same for the tip and the base?

If you want the width of the tip to match the base,
all you do is sharpen the base separately from tip using a lower angle setting,
one that matches the width


Since you're using a jig ,
most likely the tip has a lower angle,
so this is a technique issue,
you need to clamp closer to the tip
so the angle difference between base and tip is much smaller
or sharpen the tip/curve separately from the base

Also use permanent marker trick for finding edge angle when re-clamping

 

[Zatx]

Keep having the same problem on several blades when I go to sharpen them. As the photo attached shows as I sharpen the edge around the curve and tip keeps getting wide. I have read here and other forums to try and keep this from happening but have made no progress. I'm currently using a DMT aligner system I used to use and a Lansky system I now use. Same issue with both systems. Anyone have any helpful advice or another system I should go to? I have some water stones but really like the lansky system and diamond stone plus the extras I have added. Also is they're a good way to fix the damage already done?
Thanks,

This is difficult to do with the DMT system. You can try doing what the previous poster says and clamp closer to the tip, but this can be difficult with some blade shapes and lengths. The typical technique to avoid this is to lift the blade slightly as you approach the tip (freehand, Sharpmaker, etc.), but this isn't possible with the DMT because your knife is locked in.

The only way to fix this is to grind away way more of the material than you'll really want to do.

 

[banksy]

Here's the advice from Wicked Edge but same principle applies to any clamped system

https://www.wickededgeusa.com/finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back/

 

[cbwx34]

...
If you want the width of the tip to match the base,
all you do is sharpen the base separately from tip using a lower angle setting,
one that matches the width

Since you're using a jig ,
most likely the tip has a lower angle,
so this is a technique issue,
you need to clamp closer to the tip
so the angle difference between base and tip is much smaller
or sharpen the tip/curve separately from the base

Also use permanent marker trick for finding edge angle when re-clamping

I wouldn't recommend sharpening sections of the knife at different angles (what a PITA). Clamping the belly/tip area closer to the pivot is the better solution IMO.

 

[me2]

It's also common to have the tip be slightly thicker than the heel of the blade, so when you sharpen at the same angle, the tip will be slightly wider than the rest. It's not trivial to figure out the cause of widening, as it could be all the reasons here at the same time.

 

[Fanglekai]

Often the angle is different at the tip due to it being thicker there. When you maintain an angle along the length of the blade this is common. Some options are: you can free hand, change the angle, or not worry about it because it's a tool meant to be used

 

[mpikas]

Try to clamp parallel to the spine of the blade and closer to the tip (the clamp centered about on the middle of the blade should be about right). The DMT plastic holder may flex some causing this kind of thing. The Lansky doesn't hold the blade as firmly. For a long time I used my DMT "stones" and holder with a modified lansky holder (I machined a notch in the clamps to give the spine of the blades something to register on) and that worked OK.

FWIW, I've found that just about every blade I've sharpened had some issue with the primary grind, either it is crooked, or not even or something, so often there is some spot on the blade that can't be made entirely perfectly even, at least not without excessive grinding, sometimes this becomes an issue of weighing blade life vs imperfections you're willing to live with (like in this case, depending on how much it bothers you you may want to just leave it and fix it incrementally as it needs to be re-sharpened, for me, based on your picture and the blade style the very narrow secondary near the heal would bother me more, but with flat stones you won't be able to fix that without grinding out the slight bit of recurve between the heel and the belly of the blade, I'm not sure if it's worth it, again, I would probably leave it till it needed to be re-sharpened). If you end up getting seriously into trying to get this right you move things around till you get things as even as possible and then grind both sides even before you do anything else (If you're using the DMT holders do some digging, there are some really coarse DMT stones that are intended for other uses that fit those holders that cut much faster- faster cutting/less pressure = more consistent grind angle... I have a black and a grey that are much more coarse than the average, I also have finer green and tan)

Finally, that looks like a Hinderer spanto tip- they will always end up with a wider secondary bevel where the primary bevel breaks near the tip... nothing you can do about it unless you want to grind it into a tanto, it's the design of the blade. Where that gets weird is that I've seen them with the break in the primary bevel in 2 different places on each side of the blade.