Keeping Ivory Micarta ----Ivory

Robert Hankins

Robert Hankins

Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
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Trying to put the finish on a couple paper Ivory Micarta handles.
Using NS pins and taking it to an 800 grit finish and then buffing lightly with Zam, finish with Scratchless pink. Still getting the nasty little green spots...What do I do?
Thanks for your help.
 
Thats one reason I went to real ivory. That imitation stuff is a pain to get clean and maintain. I used white rouge and clean buffs. Hope this helps.
 
I have noticed quality differences between different suppliers of ivory micarta. I have seen some that will have specks when finished and some that is flawless. The last piece I ordered from Jantz Supply was perfect. Don't give up on ivory, just try it from somewhere else.
 
The one and only time I used ivory micarta I had the same problem, I went into my kitchen and under running water I sanded from 220 grit up to 1500 by hand, then I rubbed in some paste wax, and it stayed clean, and seemed to stay that way.
Kyle Fuglesten
 
I don't know why you get green spots unless it is the buffing compound. I say that because I too got a couple ivory paper base scales from Sheffield and do not remember that problem with it. Its been over a year since I used it though. Maybe I just got lucky with mine.

RL
 
Originally posted by sharpstick
I have noticed quality differences between different suppliers of ivory micarta. I have seen some that will have specks when finished and some that is flawless. The last piece I ordered from Jantz Supply was perfect. Don't give up on ivory, just try it from somewhere else.
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i concur! the best was the old westinghouse ivory micarta. some of the new paper stuff is terrible! robert try just using the ZAM and also don't use the 3m wet and dry to finish.
 
We're talking about Ivory paper micarta, right? Alternative ivory is a different animal...so is the ivory linen.

I use ivory paper micarta all the time...and have used it for a long time. I sand it to 400 and buff it with pink-no-scratch. Never a problem. Nice and clean.

The key is to buy the real stuff....Westinghouse micarta.

If the supplier can't guarantee it's Westinghouse...it probably isn't....buy elsewhere. If they say it's a phoenelic "just like" Westinghouse micarta....don't buy it........save yourself a lot of grief.

Another problem you may have is raggedy lines when contouring colored linen micarta handles. You switch to a sharper belt to no avail. You hand sand and still don't get the nice crisp contour lines you want.

Again...get the real stuff.


Cheers
Al P.
 
When I suspect I've gotten a batch of the non-westinghouse stuff, I usually sand it down to about 320 grit, then coat it real heavily with CA glue. I use a very low viscosity glue from Loctite that I get from McMaster-Carr. Then I hand sand down to 600 then polish lightly on a loose buff with white compound. Works well for me, and no spots.
 
like Bruce
white and a clean wheel
If your time is worth anything, in the long run the real stuff
will pay you much more.
but you'll get a customer that wants the micarta :(
I go down to at least 15 micron (3M) then to the buffer,
very little buffing.
 
Originally posted by Blinker
Laurence,
What paper would you suggest using to do the final sanding?
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3m makes a yellowish color one that i got at a auto body supply. it won't leave the grey film like the grey wet N dry.
 
Thank you gentlemen! When I bought the stuff I really didn't know there was a difference. Now I do, thanks for the education. It came out ok after fiddling with it for a while and going back to 400 then working my way back up to 1200, Zam lightly and quickly and then scratchless pink.
 
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