Ken Nata

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,010
I have been asked to make a "ken nata" for a professional Japanese landscaping business owner who has his own extensive traditional garden at his house. He wants this knife for his personal use. I have some basic guidance from the customer and I've done a bit of research on this knife design, use, and history, but I'm still left with a number of questions.

The customer sent this photo and explained that he likes this design, but with the specs shown below:


His email reads, in part: " Whole Length of the blade- 210mm, Width of the blade- 35mm. Double blade. Angle of the blade and handle- (similar to the top diagram shown in the attachment). Shown below.



- I understand from this("double blade") that he wants a double edged blade??
- How thick would this blade be? Is this a mean nasty chopper(3/16"), or a light, quick nimble thing(1/8")?
- Where's the weight/balance point? At the guard or forward?
- Is the blade/handle angle measured at the spine, center-blade, or at the blade edge?

Also...

Can anyone identify the species of green tree leaves shown on this business card? Japanese Red Maple...?????:


Thanks folks.

-Peter
 
On a serious note...


P. McKinley said:
- I understand from this("double blade") that he wants a double edged blade??
Sounds that way to me.
- How thick would this blade be? Is this a mean nasty chopper(3/16"), or a light, quick nimble thing(1/8")?
You need to ask him what type of work it will be doing.(Limbing, clearing brush, cutting grass/reeds?)
- Where's the weight/balance point? At the guard or forward?
I would balance it just forward of the guard... maybe an inch or two. He will be able to slide up and down the handle to change it
- Is the blade/handle angle measured at the spine, center-blade, or at the blade edge?
I would imagine that the important angle is the one which addresses the cutting edge to handle.
Also...
Click to expand...

You need to know everything before you start. In the end, it's the customer's thoughts that count.
 
Those leaves look like Japanese maple to me.

I understand from this("double blade") that he wants a double edged blade??
every nata I have seen is chisel ground so I would assume that he means V ground. but I would ask him
How thick would this blade be? Is this a mean nasty chopper(3/16"), or a light, quick nimble thing(1/8")?
It is like a cross between a machete and a hatchet. I have one that is 1/4 thick that is more like an axe. but I would ask.
Where's the weight/balance point? At the guard or forward?
I like it 2-3 inches forward.
Is the blade/handle angle measured at the spine, center-blade, or at the blade edge?
what Rick Said
 
Rick Marchand said:
Cannabis.
Click to expand...

Man, can't take you anywhere. :rolleyes:

On a serious note, I'd be highly suspicious that "double blade" is symmetrically ground, differentiating from chisel ground, like Brony said. Definitely check and make sure you're on the same page with the customer.
 
The tree in the business card is momiji (Japanese maple), which are distinct from Japanese red maple, which is red year round. Momiji are green in the summer and turn red in fall.

Nata are always weight balance forward––the tangs are quite short, and don't extend much beyond the rivet(s). Most nata I've seen have a short tang with one rivet (tang doesn't extend much beyond the rivet). The blade is then kept stable by a thick metal color at the guard. Double edge *should* means V grind (ryōba) instead of chisel ground (kataha). Nata come in both varieties, depending on which the user prefers.

Nata are quite thick, although I don't know the dimensions. They are meant to chop heavily. What surprises me is that the customer is asking for a ken nata (not a nata). Nata are meant solely for chopping, don't have points, and would be ideal for landscaping work. Ken nata, on the other hand, are meant for hunting and general use in the bush. I've never handled a ken nata, but I think they are not as thick as a regular nata.

The specs about the angle say that the top angle (the straighter one) is ideal for chopping high branches. The bottom one (more bent downward) is meant for chopping branches below waist level.
 
I agree with the double bevel suggestion... definitely something to confirm.
 
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