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Ken Onion Work Sharp or Edge Pro Apex 4?

Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
1,764
I already have a Sharpmaker, and I've dabbled in inexpensive water stones (mixed results), but I'd like to try another guided system as an item to throw on my Christmas list. I'm having difficulty decided between these two - and I'm open to other options - but there are so many pros and cons that I cannot choose.

On the one hand, I have to replace belts and worry about the motor burning out at some point. On the other, the water stones will need to be flattened and I may have to replace pricey components in the system. Has anyone used both of these systems? Does anyone recommend something else? Yes, I know that I can get sandpaper and a mousepad or a cheap Arkansas stone, but I like the guided systems with many different grit levels.

Thanks for the input!
 
I don't have an edge pro, but with a little patience and a couple junk knives to practice on, the ken onion is great value and consistency for the money. After purchasing mine I've conveyed all my blades and have noticed improved performance over using my lansky system with similar angles and mirror polish.
I purchased a second set of belts and if I hadn't used the OG coarse belt for wood sanding, (yes it shapes handles too) I wouldn't have used any replacements yet after three months of regular use.
Hope this helps!
 
The EP and the WSKO are two different animals. The EP is a very precise hand powered system that can produce incredible results. The WSKO is motorized and therefore MUCH faster. It is by definition less precise, as, even when using the angle guide, it has less support for the blade. So it all depends upon what you are after. The WSKO can sharpen very abused blades in a fraction of the time required by the EP. The EP is more exact. Can produce more flat, more precise bevels.

Personally, I want both at some point, but I only have the WSKO right now and it produces very good results for me and lets me sharpen blades that I otherwise would have to spend HOURS on. Don't get me wrong. I can also produce hair popping, somewhat incredible edges with the WSKO. It is a formidable machine.

Brian.
 
The EP and the WSKO are two different animals. The EP is a very precise hand powered system that can produce incredible results. The WSKO is motorized and therefore MUCH faster. It is by definition less precise, as, even when using the angle guide, it has less support for the blade. So it all depends upon what you are after. The WSKO can sharpen very abused blades in a fraction of the time required by the EP. The EP is more exact. Can produce more flat, more precise bevels.

Personally, I want both at some point, but I only have the WSKO right now and it produces very good results for me and lets me sharpen blades that I otherwise would have to spend HOURS on. Don't get me wrong. I can also produce hair popping, somewhat incredible edges with the WSKO. It is a formidable machine.

Brian.

Given those different needs, I may very well end up getting both at some point, too (when finances and the fiancee allow for it).

I think for sharpening the knives of friends and family, I will have to get a WSKO either way. They abuse their knives until they are as dull as a paint stir.
 
I have owned the original worksharp and a chinese EP.

I sold the worksharp. It works as advertised, but it is very easy to damage knives by removing too much steel. Also, I only have 1 or 2 knives that I want to have a convexed edge.

I will buy the "real" EP someday, but owning the knockoff tells me that the real thing is a system that I can depend on for a huge variety of knives and finishes.

Another system to consider is the KME. Cheaper than the EP and lets you lock the blade in.
 
The EP and the WSKO are two different animals. The EP is a very precise hand powered system that can produce incredible results. The WSKO is motorized and therefore MUCH faster. It is by definition less precise, as, even when using the angle guide, it has less support for the blade. So it all depends upon what you are after. The WSKO can sharpen very abused blades in a fraction of the time required by the EP. The EP is more exact. Can produce more flat, more precise bevels.

Personally, I want both at some point, but I only have the WSKO right now and it produces very good results for me and lets me sharpen blades that I otherwise would have to spend HOURS on. Don't get me wrong. I can also produce hair popping, somewhat incredible edges with the WSKO. It is a formidable machine.

Brian.

More than fair. Both have extensive aftermarkets as well.
 
For a guided system I feel that the KME is the best value on the market. I happen to own one and a Ken Onion Worksharp, but the guides on the KOWS amount to little more than a suggestion as opposed to a truly guided system--I have found I end up with best results--bevel even-ness and sharpness using the KOWS freehand. I find that I use the KOWS more often than the KME, but on my seriously high end blades, I use the KME. I highly recommend the diamond stones, and then either a fine ceramic or translucent Arkansas, and at least one Kangaroo strop with some CBN for finishing. I also get devastatingly sharp edges with the KME as well. Good luck--maybe you can go with both also.......:rolleyes:
 
I have owned the original worksharp and a chinese EP.

I sold the worksharp. It works as advertised, but it is very easy to damage knives by removing too much steel. Also, I only have 1 or 2 knives that I want to have a convexed edge.

I will buy the "real" EP someday, but owning the knockoff tells me that the real thing is a system that I can depend on for a huge variety of knives and finishes.

Another system to consider is the KME. Cheaper than the EP and lets you lock the blade in.

Of note here is that the KO edition has a variable speed motor and is less likely to overheat or chew through too much blade.

I have the EP, progressed to paper wheels (because SPEED boys!) and now have a WSKTS-KO arriving on thursday. I plan on using in conjunction with the paper wheels as my re-profiling system. The edge pro can produce great results, but I found it very unforgiving of any inconsistencies in the way you hold the blade on the table. YMMV, and many people glue magnets under the table to stabilize things to good effect, I've heard.

In the end, I think you're main calculus should be around time. I never shy away from touching up my blades on my paper wheels, because it takes 5 minutes start to finish. It will probably take you 5 minutes to set up the EPA, 10-15 minutes to touch something up and an hour or more to completely reprofile something. In the end, the edge pro is capable of finer precision, at the cost of time.

I've seen elsewhere somebody say in reference to sharpening systems:

Pick two:

Cheap, Precise, Fast

hope this helps
SS
 
Of note here is that the KO edition has a variable speed motor and is less likely to overheat or chew through too much blade.

I have the EP, progressed to paper wheels (because SPEED boys!) and now have a WSKTS-KO arriving on thursday. I plan on using in conjunction with the paper wheels as my re-profiling system. The edge pro can produce great results, but I found it very unforgiving of any inconsistencies in the way you hold the blade on the table. YMMV, and many people glue magnets under the table to stabilize things to good effect, I've heard.

In the end, I think you're main calculus should be around time. I never shy away from touching up my blades on my paper wheels, because it takes 5 minutes start to finish. It will probably take you 5 minutes to set up the EPA, 10-15 minutes to touch something up and an hour or more to completely reprofile something. In the end, the edge pro is capable of finer precision, at the cost of time.

I've seen elsewhere somebody say in reference to sharpening systems:

Pick two:

Cheap, Precise, Fast

hope this helps
SS

Good feedback. Thanks. Let me know what you think of the KO when you get it.
 
Of note here is that the KO edition has a variable speed motor and is less likely to overheat or chew through too much blade.

I have the EP, progressed to paper wheels (because SPEED boys!) and now have a WSKTS-KO arriving on thursday. I plan on using in conjunction with the paper wheels as my re-profiling system. The edge pro can produce great results, but I found it very unforgiving of any inconsistencies in the way you hold the blade on the table. YMMV, and many people glue magnets under the table to stabilize things to good effect, I've heard.

In the end, I think you're main calculus should be around time. I never shy away from touching up my blades on my paper wheels, because it takes 5 minutes start to finish. It will probably take you 5 minutes to set up the EPA, 10-15 minutes to touch something up and an hour or more to completely reprofile something. In the end, the edge pro is capable of finer precision, at the cost of time.

I've seen elsewhere somebody say in reference to sharpening systems:

Pick two:

Cheap, Precise, Fast

hope this helps
SS

Good feedback. Thanks. Let ble know what you think of the KO when you get it.
 
I was just logged on to follow-up with a post on my thread about the issue with my damascus Higonokami which, I did resolve with the Ken Onion WorkSharp.
I was getting a chipped edge with sharpening even into 2000grit and stropping.
I had to blunt/flatted the edge and used the KOWS to reprofile the micro bevel and then hone.
It's now smooth as glass and scary sharp.
I like this KenOnion doohickey as a first time user. I have always sharpened my knives by hand on scientific granite with Wet/Dry paper and never experienced the issue I was having with the Higonokami before.
Despite my preference for the the enjoyable meditative quality of sharpening by hand, I gotta acknowledge the ease of use and exceptional edge the KOWS put on the knife.
 
I have an had an EP for more than a year and just bought the KO. I've sharpened at 15 or so knives on the EP. I always micro bevel--just like the added strength and speed of touch up. And yes, i like the near mirror primary. I use an angle cube and keep records of the bevels. Haven't had to more than touch up any of the blades sharpened on EP. Takes a while but it's a sure thing. Bought a set of Choseras that went with it, ending at 8000 grit.

I bought the KO for larger blades and to investigate convex edges for a couple of my knives. I do not see the KO as offering precise edge angles, but I don't think that is so important for the powered sharpeners, particularly convex.

I like the manual sharpener for my prized folders--just feel "safer" taking my time. I also believe micro bevels offer most of the advantage of convex edges.

On the other hand, for $150 or so, the KO gets you in the game of some really nice edges using a guided system. Of course, we've been putting shaving sharp edges by hand without guides for years. Just no mirror.
 
Hi guys. I also sharpen my knives on the EPA but lately have moved to whet stones hand sharpening. My question regarding the KOWS, it says that it will create a convex edge. I recently picked up a Bark River FR. Barkies have convex edges and the research I’ve seen shows sharpening convex edges with different grit sand paper on a mouse pad. I would think the KOWS would be a perfect system for knives already with convex? Has anyone used KOWS on a knife with a convex? results?

Sorry if this question has already been posed.
 
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