Kershaw 420hc how good?

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How good is kershaws 420hc compared to Buck's? I just picked up a link blackwash and was wondering how it compares.
 
I own a Buck 110 and a Kershaw Link, Bucks 420hc seems to be harder than Kershaws. Heat treat makes a world of difference, Buck gets terrific reviews in that area.
 
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I picked up a FRN Dividend recently.

It cuts great, but it rusts really easy though.

I think I have had better stain resistance from Buck's 420HC.
 
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I own a Buck 110 and a Kershaw Link, Bucks 420hc seems to be harder than Kershaws. Heat treat makes a world of difference, Buck gets terrific reviews in that area.

I mean, that's a big part of why I am a huge fan of Buck's 420HC. It's a steel that gets very little street cred, but Paul Bos heat treat takes it to a level where it performs out of proportion with its status.
 
I mean, that's a big part of why I am a huge fan of Buck's 420HC. It's a steel that gets very little street cred, but Paul Bos heat treat takes it to a level where it performs out of proportion with its status.

I 100% agree, easy to sharpen, decent edge retention, and excellent corrosion resistance. Whats not to like? I'm not sure if it's true, but I have read that Bucks 420hc edge retention is on par with 8cr13.
 
Bucks 420HC > everyone else's 420HC thanks to Paul Bos and his heat treat. This is a great example of how all blade steel of the same name are not equal. Not everyone does the same heat treatment and it makes a difference.
 
I 100% agree, easy to sharpen, decent edge retention, and excellent corrosion resistance. Whats not to like? I'm not sure if it's true, but I have read that Bucks 420hc edge retention is on par with 8cr13.
No bucks edge retention is much better than 8cr13mov.

Kershaw 420hc is slightly better than 8cr13mov.
 
I'd say that IME the two brands that have their 420 nailed and superior to any other brands are Leatherman and Buck, excellent steel in their blades :thumbsup:
 
I recently purchased a link. Not sure how it compares to bucks 420hc but its held up pretty well. Kershaws 420hc seems to me to be better than their 8cr13mov. Ive cut cardboard with it and made wood shavings to start a fire. Stropped it after and its still nice and sharp. Kershaw put a nice edge on it from the factory.
 
Things may have changed since then, but my Kershaw Scallion in 420HC from 07 is just small a tick behind any of my Bucks in edge retention. That being said, Buck runs their blades so hard that sometimes they become just a little bit brittle. The link will retain its edge acceptably and still be pretty tough. Kershaw isn't too bad at heat treatments, it's just that Buck has mastered 420HC and besting them is a tall order. Fit and finish will likely be a little better on the Kershaw, some Bucks are a little more rough than others.

As has been discussed here, I've used Buck's 420HC and Kershaw's 8cr13MoV side by side and can't tell a difference between them. The only 8cr13MoV I've used that is any better than Buck's 420HC is made by Spyderco.
 
Things may have changed since then, but my Kershaw Scallion in 420HC from 07 is just small a tick behind any of my Bucks in edge retention. That being said, Buck runs their blades so hard that sometimes they become just a little bit brittle. The link will retain its edge acceptably and still be pretty tough. Kershaw isn't too bad at heat treatments, it's just that Buck has mastered 420HC and besting them is a tall order. Fit and finish will likely be a little better on the Kershaw, some Bucks are a little more rough than others.

As has been discussed here, I've used Buck's 420HC and Kershaw's 8cr13MoV side by side and can't tell a difference between them. The only 8cr13MoV I've used that is any better than Buck's 420HC is made by Spyderco.
most people cant tell the difference between a budget steel and s35vn. but when testing there is a clear difference. 8cr13mov is likely not better than either companies 420hc. but if you care to do some controlled tests or send your knives to Pete or Jim, to compare, that could help also.
 
Buck's 420HC is better than Kershaw's by a narrow margin, IMHO. I always liked Buck's standard blade steel, and as a Scout Cubmaster, I often recommended Buck knives to the boys' parents, because of the quality & economy of their knives. Also, Buck's 420HC seems (to me) to have really good corrosion resistance.

That said, Kershaw's 420HC is still very good. I'm currently using a [Snap-on] Blur with their 420HC, and it's held up as well as other Kershaw 420HC models I've had in the past (Leek, Scallion & others.) You may have to sharpen the blade a little more often, but you should also get good corrosion resistance as well.

~Chris

ps - whatever you do, stay away from 420J2. I don't think Kershaw uses it in any of their knives (I haven't checked) but I've never heard anything good about 420J2.
 
Only kershaws I would recommend are of 14c28. 420J2 is tough, but doesn't hold an edge; it's used as the outer layer in laminated blades like fallkniven or cold steel sanmai. My 420HC blur broke its tip, haven't sent it in for replacement (filed it back down pretty easily). Can't comment on their s30v, as buck (bos again) has seemed to have nailed it again! Most people will need to sharpen their 420HC long before their s30v, when they will realize how much harder it is to sharpen!
 
For got to mention stay away from their <$20 knives with names like "carburetor" or "caliper" as they are made from below budget Chinese steels like 3cr16 or 2cr17 which lose an edge after one cut and will break from verbal abuse ntm criminally negligent looking liner locks.
 
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Most people will need to sharpen their 420HC long before their s30v, when they will realize how much harder it is to sharpen!

One of the best things about 420HC is how easy it is to restore the edge. I assume you're saying S30V is harder to sharpen than 420HC, correct?

~Chris
 
One of the best things about 420HC is how easy it is to restore the edge. I assume you're saying S30V is harder to sharpen than 420HC, correct?

~Chris
On a stone, s30v takes at least 2 or 3 times longer than s 420hc; it's got vanadium and many times the carbon content; If you have dmt diafold sharpeners, then it's actually pretty easy to restore the edge on a blade of s30v
 
Thanks for the knowledge. It lost an edge faster than my tenacious, but as has been said it was super easy to resharpen. I actually have a couple of the super cheap kershaws, the Starter and the Mini Thermite. The starter is 4cr and the mini thermite is 3cr. The Starter has a horrible lockup as said, but the thermite is great except for the blade. Lasted longer than I thought, whereas I was cutting cardboard with the starter and it made it through a couple sheets before I had to get a different knife.
 
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I don't know what kershaw is up to with those cheapos. A blur in s30v, which can often be found for around $50, will cut several hundred feet of cardboard easily before needing a touchup!
 
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