Kershaw Blur detent after deassist

A

annasoH323

Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
330
I just got a Blur and took out the speedsafe. I can flick it open, but the detent is, IMO, kind of weak. I can give it a shake and it will open up. Can people comment on their experiences with manual Blurs and detent strength when it comes to opening? Also, is there a way to strengthen it? It's a blem, so sending it back in isn't an option.

For further descriptive info, it's an S30V model. When I close it, I can feel the ball slide into the detent though it is a much less pronounced sensation than I'm used to from even my Zing.
 
Sharpening a recurve is as easy as sharpening a straight edge. In both cases you need the proper equipment. Buy yourself a Spyderco Sharpmaker. I've owned one for several years now and it sharpens just about everything. It is sufficient for touch ups and basic sharpening, but for heavy reprofiling I would recommend something a bit more advanced.
 
With the Blurs, you aren't going to get much of a detent at all after de-assisting. Just the nature of the beast.
 
Since it's a blem, you could experiment with drilling the detent hole deeper, or increasing the size of the detent hole ramps to the central (neutral) position. Probably won't help if the detent ball is too small to benefit from an increase in detent hole.

What about removing the blade from the handles, and bending the lockbar over further? I did this with one of my framelocks that was not locking up securely enough, and it reduced the blade play at the expense of increased detent resistance.

RevDevil, why are we talking about recurves?

Back to the OP: I'm looking inside my deassisted Blur (CF/CPM154) and it's definitely got room for a little more depth to the detent hole. Another thing you might try is tightening the pivot down, and the body screws as well, which will reduce the slop in the handles and make the existing detent work just a little better. You may find that you then have to polish or grease the washers just that bit more, to make them not bind, but on mine a shaking does nothing until the blade opens completely and locks. I can't get it to open partway by shaking, which is what I believe you're describing. A rough guide is to eliminate lateral blade play with the knife open and locked.
 
Thanks for the experiences/suggestions. I considered bending the lock, but am not sure I have the equipment to do that. I did try switching lock plates with another Blur I bought as a gift (I figured that since that one will remain assisted, it was okay to switch). It didn't help (seemed to make it worse) and that verified the visual inspection of how much the locks were bent over (about the same). I think I'll give it a few days (especially since my thumbs are killing me. I always manage to cut my fingernails right before I get a new knife that needs breaking in and manage to peel my thumbnails back a little... still smarting from that... but I like these thumb studs too :( ). I'll see if it ever becomes a problem. As of now, the way it sits in the pocket, there isn't really anything for it to get caught on and open in my pocket and upon thought, there shouldn't be a way for it to shake open in the pocket either. Worst comes to worst, I can put the assist back in and it won't be the end of the world. Thanks again!
 
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