- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
Hi folks. This is long. Its three days worth of notes all in two posts. I hope you like reading.
First Impressions:
Blade measures 3 and 3/8" and is 1" wide blade in plain edge, with a primary grind thickness measurment of.023" right above the edge bevel. It is a very nice grind uniform and the same thickness plus or minus .005 over the length of the blade. I found more variance in other knives from Kershaw and other manufacturers than this but this one is basically the same thickness on the tip third as it is in the middle third as it is at the back third of the blade based on my digital caliper. Its as sharp out of the box as any knife I've seen to date from Kershaw. The pocket clip flipped to tip up for me no problem and mounts both positions just fine. Pretty smart the way Kershaw incorporated the same clip used on the Leek in this design.
Overall fit and finish is excellent as is typical of the knives I have seen from Kai. All pins and screws are centered perfectly. The recess depth of the stop pin is the same on both sides of the folder and the pin does not move back and forth when the blade is moved off it to free it up like I have seen on other models and as a result it doesn't rattle which is good. It weighs in at 3.8 ounces which is a nice heft and yet still light weight enough for comfortable carry. The brown color is particularly appealing and the grip inserts are comfortable and attractive. Blade opens with authority, and there is no play at all with the blade either vertically or laterally.
I note on the Blur that the detent ball works because you can see the lock move in when the ball falls in the hole as the blade is closed. Good move on Kai'/Kershaw's part there. I like seeing that. Its good that Kershaw is now using the detent ball on these assisted openers as you would on any non assisted liner or frame locking knife. I talked with Ken Onion about this years ago on his forum suggesting that Kershaw do this when I noticed my own Scallion did not have the hole drilled in the blade for the ball to fall into. I always thought this was a recipe for a knife opening in the pocket if the spring ever broke, particularly in tip up carry mode. Sure enough it was because I experienced having to make one of my own AO knives a safe queen while waiting for Kershaw to mail out a new spring for it the first time it broke on me. It was either that or tighten the pivot down to make it hard to open or drill the detent hole in the blade, which I did do eventually anyway. I should point out that I have also drilled the hole in the blade to activate the detent on more than a handful of AO Kershaw knives for forum members over the years. Ken and I discussed this on his forum about the Scallion I owned then and he told me then that the only reason a detent was used was to make it smoother opening than it would be rubbing the whole side of the lock as the blade pivots. I agreed with that reasoning but suggested to him in a private message at that time that he and Kershaw consider the gravity knife factor for when the spring breaks. I'm not sure he ever saw it because the thread died after that and he never replied to me about the PM. Maybe he didn't appreciate it I don't know. Then again perhaps he never saw it.
Ok, thats some thoughts on the knife. Now on to use tests.
Hemp cutting with the SG2 blade:
My initial thoughts right after getting it and cutting with it in some hemp rope were that the edge was showing early signs of some reflection in sunlight. Continuing on, after 15 slices it surprised me once again at how much blunted edge reflected back at me already under the light at the tip third portion of the blade which is what I used on the SG2 blade to do the cuts. I made note of it and went on though. The real surprise came after 165 more push cuts and slices clean through the half inch hemp using that same tip third of the blade only to do all my cutting. To my surprise the edge at that section still looked exactly the same to me as it did after the first 15 cuts. In other words those early deflections I saw initially had no negative affect in cutting performance and remained relatively unchanged.
All these cuts were bare handed by the way. If there is one thing worth noting right away its that the Blur is very comfortable to use. Right up there with, if not surpassing the comfort in the hand that I get with the JYDII which I think is the best knife Kershaw currently makes in a folder for a number of reasons. I did a lot of cuts bare handed with this one. In fact it was so comfortable that it surprised me how far I could go with it bare handed. Thanks to that comfort and the edge keeping I made it farther than ever before when cutting hemp with a Kershaw knife bare handed. Finally after around 130 bare hand pushes into the hemp the blade and handle did begin to wear into me causing some discomfort on my hand and fingers to where I noticed it like other knife handles have with much fewer cuts.
I started to write that it was getting harder to cut from the blade dulling down at around 125/130 slices on up to the end.
However, I am left wondering if it actually was more difficult due to dulling or if maybe I was just getting muscle fatique after all 180 cuts with this blade bare handed. I wondered to myself mumbling if the increase in effort I percieved was due to my own fatique from doing so many cuts and not anything to do with the blade dulling. The blade appears to still have lots and lots of life left in it and does not need a touch up at this point after that many cuts in the hemp. Due to this I believe the knife is fine and that the percieved increase in difficulty was more with me than the edge. Now to find that out. For this I'm going to do another type of test.
Moving on to cardboard since I was fatiqued: Here the blade also excelled well. I only do this test when I have the supplies and when I am fatiqued. What I do is save my old toilet paper roll cardboard centers from both our bathrooms. These old cardboard roll centers are wonderful for getting an idea of how much an edge changes with use without having to wear yourself out to worry so much about that fatique factor changing the perception of difficulty. It appears the blade is capable of going farther in hemp than a human being is before the knife wears him out so this will help me know if that is the case or not. In other words I am thinking the blade is far more capable than the user here. The knife did so well in the hemp that I wanted to gauge another view of the edge so I could decide if the edge was really dulling any or if it was just me. I moved on to this test that I have done before with good results in order to find that out. The only difference here is that the blade wasn't fresh but used first for other cuts in hemp.
You can do this two ways with the cardoard TP holders. Some cut rings off the ends making like tomato slices over and over but I hold the cardboard center upright so its vertical and slice down letting the knife do the work.The first two slices cut the tube of cardboard in half length wise. It requires very little force for this test because physical exertion is nil. But it requires a very sharp edge to do it continually and some mental focus since very little pressure is being applied and you are slicing thin delicate slices of card. The SG2 blade steel is impressive starting out here doing this even after all the hemp cutting!
After I reached roll number 25 I began to see some changes in the edge. By the way, each roll consisted on average of 12 to 15 slices each before moving onto the next one. Once the tube was cut in half I then half it again and then slice off thin slivers from the sides of each half until the slices are so small its hard to hold onto the remaining card standing upright the height of the original paper roll and even harder for the blade to cut it rather than kink it. The blade was finally beginning to show signs of folding or kinking the cardboard down consistantly rather than cut into it to start the cut after getting midway through roll number 25 or after around 336 to 350 slices plus or minus which are the first indicators that the edge is blunting a bit and starting to be affected by the cardboard, and in this case the hemp also since that was cut first with the blade before moving to this test. Cardboard of this type that is recycled is full of fibers both natural and man made, as well as untold amounts of silica, mica, and glues, among other things and can be a good medium to test the edge of a knife with.
The delicate nature of this thin card these rolls are made of allows me to see pretty close to exactly when the knife's edge changes and not so much when I get fatiqued or sore. This way I have what I feel is a better idea of when the blade is no longer as sharp with little worry that it might be my own fatique that is causing me to think the blade changed in performance. Granted this is no CATRA test but its the best way I could figure to judge the edge here. The SG2 blade did quite well here, especially when you consider that it cut 180 times in half inch hemp rope with that same tip third that I did these cardboard cuts with.
For all the testing so far only the 1 and 1/8" tip third of the blade was used to do any cutting, both the belly third and the back third of the blade are still factory fresh at this stage of the testing. I ended up using up all 28 cardboard rolls I had saved over time and had quite a pile of sliced cardboard on the floor when done. The last three rolls required a bit more focus to insure I didn't cut myself though since the blade steadily got harder and harder to get started in a new slice without kinking the card over rather than cut into it. Once I started seeing the rim of the roll kink rather than the blade slide through effortlessly I can count up how many cuts it made before dulling down to gauge it against others I've done this with. As it sits I did between 336 and 350 slices of thin strips of card board with it after doing 180push cuts, bottom slices through half inch hemp rope. In the past some knives have only made it to 15 rolls from a fresh start. Going back to the hemp after taking this break to push cut five more times through a left over I can see that it did dull down a good bit at this point. Its much harder now to cut the hemp rope than it was before I stopped the rope cutting in the first series of cuts.
I like this method of testing the edge because it allows me to zero in on one area of the blade only so I only use the one specific area for all the cutting I am doing leaving the other two thirds of the blade edge pristine. I sometimes actually mark the thirds of the blades with a Sharpy magic marker as was the case here. When I start to think I'm seeing a difference in cutting performance in the area of the blade I'm cutting with I can then cut once in the roll or the rope, carpet or whatever with the factory fresh third of the blade in a new spot to gauge a comparison. Using a different third of the knife blade to get a comparison going in my mind so I can see life expectancy of the edge is not so important in this case as it was to determine if what I was seeing was blade dulling or Steve dulling. But in my mind this allows me to compare it with other steels I've done this with. Bottom line here is that the SG2 has a very impressive showing so far.
What this test with the cardboard tells me is that the increased effort I was feeling in rope cutting was me and that the blade still had lots and lots of clean cuts with less effort in it when I switched tests. The percieved effort increase cutting the hemp had to be me getting tired, sore and worn from doing it so many times bare handed. This is a pretty good blade steel folks!
I don't think it would be a problem to cut 1000 or 1500 times in half inch hemp rope using this blade if you used the entire blade in thirds in this manner. In fact I'm sure it could do that and then some after using it. It appears to me to be award winning performance here for edge holding.
First Impressions:
Blade measures 3 and 3/8" and is 1" wide blade in plain edge, with a primary grind thickness measurment of.023" right above the edge bevel. It is a very nice grind uniform and the same thickness plus or minus .005 over the length of the blade. I found more variance in other knives from Kershaw and other manufacturers than this but this one is basically the same thickness on the tip third as it is in the middle third as it is at the back third of the blade based on my digital caliper. Its as sharp out of the box as any knife I've seen to date from Kershaw. The pocket clip flipped to tip up for me no problem and mounts both positions just fine. Pretty smart the way Kershaw incorporated the same clip used on the Leek in this design.
Overall fit and finish is excellent as is typical of the knives I have seen from Kai. All pins and screws are centered perfectly. The recess depth of the stop pin is the same on both sides of the folder and the pin does not move back and forth when the blade is moved off it to free it up like I have seen on other models and as a result it doesn't rattle which is good. It weighs in at 3.8 ounces which is a nice heft and yet still light weight enough for comfortable carry. The brown color is particularly appealing and the grip inserts are comfortable and attractive. Blade opens with authority, and there is no play at all with the blade either vertically or laterally.
I note on the Blur that the detent ball works because you can see the lock move in when the ball falls in the hole as the blade is closed. Good move on Kai'/Kershaw's part there. I like seeing that. Its good that Kershaw is now using the detent ball on these assisted openers as you would on any non assisted liner or frame locking knife. I talked with Ken Onion about this years ago on his forum suggesting that Kershaw do this when I noticed my own Scallion did not have the hole drilled in the blade for the ball to fall into. I always thought this was a recipe for a knife opening in the pocket if the spring ever broke, particularly in tip up carry mode. Sure enough it was because I experienced having to make one of my own AO knives a safe queen while waiting for Kershaw to mail out a new spring for it the first time it broke on me. It was either that or tighten the pivot down to make it hard to open or drill the detent hole in the blade, which I did do eventually anyway. I should point out that I have also drilled the hole in the blade to activate the detent on more than a handful of AO Kershaw knives for forum members over the years. Ken and I discussed this on his forum about the Scallion I owned then and he told me then that the only reason a detent was used was to make it smoother opening than it would be rubbing the whole side of the lock as the blade pivots. I agreed with that reasoning but suggested to him in a private message at that time that he and Kershaw consider the gravity knife factor for when the spring breaks. I'm not sure he ever saw it because the thread died after that and he never replied to me about the PM. Maybe he didn't appreciate it I don't know. Then again perhaps he never saw it.
Ok, thats some thoughts on the knife. Now on to use tests.
Hemp cutting with the SG2 blade:
My initial thoughts right after getting it and cutting with it in some hemp rope were that the edge was showing early signs of some reflection in sunlight. Continuing on, after 15 slices it surprised me once again at how much blunted edge reflected back at me already under the light at the tip third portion of the blade which is what I used on the SG2 blade to do the cuts. I made note of it and went on though. The real surprise came after 165 more push cuts and slices clean through the half inch hemp using that same tip third of the blade only to do all my cutting. To my surprise the edge at that section still looked exactly the same to me as it did after the first 15 cuts. In other words those early deflections I saw initially had no negative affect in cutting performance and remained relatively unchanged.
All these cuts were bare handed by the way. If there is one thing worth noting right away its that the Blur is very comfortable to use. Right up there with, if not surpassing the comfort in the hand that I get with the JYDII which I think is the best knife Kershaw currently makes in a folder for a number of reasons. I did a lot of cuts bare handed with this one. In fact it was so comfortable that it surprised me how far I could go with it bare handed. Thanks to that comfort and the edge keeping I made it farther than ever before when cutting hemp with a Kershaw knife bare handed. Finally after around 130 bare hand pushes into the hemp the blade and handle did begin to wear into me causing some discomfort on my hand and fingers to where I noticed it like other knife handles have with much fewer cuts.
I started to write that it was getting harder to cut from the blade dulling down at around 125/130 slices on up to the end.
However, I am left wondering if it actually was more difficult due to dulling or if maybe I was just getting muscle fatique after all 180 cuts with this blade bare handed. I wondered to myself mumbling if the increase in effort I percieved was due to my own fatique from doing so many cuts and not anything to do with the blade dulling. The blade appears to still have lots and lots of life left in it and does not need a touch up at this point after that many cuts in the hemp. Due to this I believe the knife is fine and that the percieved increase in difficulty was more with me than the edge. Now to find that out. For this I'm going to do another type of test.
Moving on to cardboard since I was fatiqued: Here the blade also excelled well. I only do this test when I have the supplies and when I am fatiqued. What I do is save my old toilet paper roll cardboard centers from both our bathrooms. These old cardboard roll centers are wonderful for getting an idea of how much an edge changes with use without having to wear yourself out to worry so much about that fatique factor changing the perception of difficulty. It appears the blade is capable of going farther in hemp than a human being is before the knife wears him out so this will help me know if that is the case or not. In other words I am thinking the blade is far more capable than the user here. The knife did so well in the hemp that I wanted to gauge another view of the edge so I could decide if the edge was really dulling any or if it was just me. I moved on to this test that I have done before with good results in order to find that out. The only difference here is that the blade wasn't fresh but used first for other cuts in hemp.
You can do this two ways with the cardoard TP holders. Some cut rings off the ends making like tomato slices over and over but I hold the cardboard center upright so its vertical and slice down letting the knife do the work.The first two slices cut the tube of cardboard in half length wise. It requires very little force for this test because physical exertion is nil. But it requires a very sharp edge to do it continually and some mental focus since very little pressure is being applied and you are slicing thin delicate slices of card. The SG2 blade steel is impressive starting out here doing this even after all the hemp cutting!
After I reached roll number 25 I began to see some changes in the edge. By the way, each roll consisted on average of 12 to 15 slices each before moving onto the next one. Once the tube was cut in half I then half it again and then slice off thin slivers from the sides of each half until the slices are so small its hard to hold onto the remaining card standing upright the height of the original paper roll and even harder for the blade to cut it rather than kink it. The blade was finally beginning to show signs of folding or kinking the cardboard down consistantly rather than cut into it to start the cut after getting midway through roll number 25 or after around 336 to 350 slices plus or minus which are the first indicators that the edge is blunting a bit and starting to be affected by the cardboard, and in this case the hemp also since that was cut first with the blade before moving to this test. Cardboard of this type that is recycled is full of fibers both natural and man made, as well as untold amounts of silica, mica, and glues, among other things and can be a good medium to test the edge of a knife with.
The delicate nature of this thin card these rolls are made of allows me to see pretty close to exactly when the knife's edge changes and not so much when I get fatiqued or sore. This way I have what I feel is a better idea of when the blade is no longer as sharp with little worry that it might be my own fatique that is causing me to think the blade changed in performance. Granted this is no CATRA test but its the best way I could figure to judge the edge here. The SG2 blade did quite well here, especially when you consider that it cut 180 times in half inch hemp rope with that same tip third that I did these cardboard cuts with.
For all the testing so far only the 1 and 1/8" tip third of the blade was used to do any cutting, both the belly third and the back third of the blade are still factory fresh at this stage of the testing. I ended up using up all 28 cardboard rolls I had saved over time and had quite a pile of sliced cardboard on the floor when done. The last three rolls required a bit more focus to insure I didn't cut myself though since the blade steadily got harder and harder to get started in a new slice without kinking the card over rather than cut into it. Once I started seeing the rim of the roll kink rather than the blade slide through effortlessly I can count up how many cuts it made before dulling down to gauge it against others I've done this with. As it sits I did between 336 and 350 slices of thin strips of card board with it after doing 180push cuts, bottom slices through half inch hemp rope. In the past some knives have only made it to 15 rolls from a fresh start. Going back to the hemp after taking this break to push cut five more times through a left over I can see that it did dull down a good bit at this point. Its much harder now to cut the hemp rope than it was before I stopped the rope cutting in the first series of cuts.
I like this method of testing the edge because it allows me to zero in on one area of the blade only so I only use the one specific area for all the cutting I am doing leaving the other two thirds of the blade edge pristine. I sometimes actually mark the thirds of the blades with a Sharpy magic marker as was the case here. When I start to think I'm seeing a difference in cutting performance in the area of the blade I'm cutting with I can then cut once in the roll or the rope, carpet or whatever with the factory fresh third of the blade in a new spot to gauge a comparison. Using a different third of the knife blade to get a comparison going in my mind so I can see life expectancy of the edge is not so important in this case as it was to determine if what I was seeing was blade dulling or Steve dulling. But in my mind this allows me to compare it with other steels I've done this with. Bottom line here is that the SG2 has a very impressive showing so far.
What this test with the cardboard tells me is that the increased effort I was feeling in rope cutting was me and that the blade still had lots and lots of clean cuts with less effort in it when I switched tests. The percieved effort increase cutting the hemp had to be me getting tired, sore and worn from doing it so many times bare handed. This is a pretty good blade steel folks!
I don't think it would be a problem to cut 1000 or 1500 times in half inch hemp rope using this blade if you used the entire blade in thirds in this manner. In fact I'm sure it could do that and then some after using it. It appears to me to be award winning performance here for edge holding.