Kershaw Leek - Frame Lock Problem

A

amue

Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
82
Hi guys,

I have had and used this Leek 1660 for about a month now.
2 days ago I took it apart for cleaning and oiling.
Upon reassembly, I properly tightenend and loctited all screws for zero blade play, smooth opening, and good blade centering when closed (and of course it does have all 3 of those now).
I now have the problem that when I open it applying light to normal pressure on the flipper, it locks up like this:
dsc00566irhf.jpg

The lock bar travels all the way across the tang and the detent ball hits the handle on the other side.

Only if I open it with firm pressure on the flipper or maybe a litte wrist flick, it locks up as it should:
dsc005653pws.jpg



Very strange! Does somebody have an idea why this is happening?
 
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If you had the frame lock locked open when you reassembled it, I'd recommend that you assemble it again. I know that the lockbar can go all the way to the other side if you reassemble it incorrectly, which I did once (I didn't have the exact issue that you're having, though). Try putting it back together with the blade not locked into place.
 
Also make sure oil is not on the lock bar or tang face, this can cause lock-up issues.
 
Ok thanks for the replies, guys.

Oil on the tang/lock bar was one of the first things I thought about, but that wasn't the problem.
It seems that with the construction of the Leek, you have to adjust every screw (pivot + the 3 body screws) VERY carefully. And I mean very.

I loosened the body screws a tiny bit and the pivot screw an even tinier bit. It locks up fine now every time, but has a minimum, barely detectable side-to-side bladeplay.

Seriously, is there anybody here who managed to perfectly (as in as they come from the factory) reassemble his Leek?
 
Hell, mine has never locked up as in the first picture. The frame lock only engaged maybe a 1/3 of the blade, but could be push into place. I always thought it should move all the way over, no?
 
No, it doesn't have to move over all the way for the blade to be securely locked.
I also have a Leek 1660CKT, whose lock bar only engages about half of the blade, and that's how it came OOTB. Guess that's how it's supposed to be.
 
Tsujigiri said:
Mine doesn't have any blade play, lockup issues, or stiffness...
Click to expand...

Hm...what model do you have?
May I ask how you reassembled it? Which means: how firmly did you tighten the body screws and the pivot screw? I'm hoping that you can describe that somehow quantitatively, well I can't propose a "scale" for that since I'm unable to translate the proper german terms ("handfest", etc.).

I'm asking because the combination of the tightness of the screws really seems to matter.

Thx!
 
I'm having the same issue with a Shallot. :(
I'd love to carry it, but the lock is a littel iffy for me. I'd be interested in the correct reassembly manner too. I did read that if you open the knife half way (90* angle handle and blade), tighten the pivot, then start tightening the rest of the screws. This should center the blade up and potentially fix the lock on some models.
 
amue said:
Hm...what model do you have?
May I ask how you reassembled it? Which means: how firmly did you tighten the body screws and the pivot screw? I'm hoping that you can describe that somehow quantitatively, well I can't propose a "scale" for that since I'm unable to translate the proper german terms ("handfest", etc.).

I'm asking because the combination of the tightness of the screws really seems to matter.

Thx!
Click to expand...

Mine is the 1660CB. Deutsch ist nicht eine Problem für mich. Ich denke, handfest soll genug sein. I don't know if it's really that much of an issue of how much you tighten the screws, I just tighten them down tight enough. I used the reassembly method Revdevil described, by putting it back together with the blade 90 degrees to the handle. I tighten the pivot screw so it's as loose as it can be with zero side to side blade play. Note that the pivot screw connects to a piece that can rotate freely, so just because you're turning the pivot screw doesn't mean that you're changing the tightness. I have this issue on my Shallot, but not my Leek. However, I know that it can appear on the Leek as well, so make sure the pivot isn't turning on the other side. Revdevil, did you try that assembly method and have it not work?

Hope this helps, if anyone needs clarification on anything feel free to ask.
 
I don't like to disassemble frame locks because of this very reason. You'll need to play with all the screws to get it perfectly. Try loosening the pivot all the way then tightening the body screws completely then screwing the pivot back in to place.
 
Tsujigiri said:
Mine is the 1660CB. Deutsch ist nicht eine Problem für mich. Ich denke, handfest soll genug sein. I don't know if it's really that much of an issue of how much you tighten the screws, I just tighten them down tight enough. I used the reassembly method Revdevil described, by putting it back together with the blade 90 degrees to the handle. I tighten the pivot screw so it's as loose as it can be with zero side to side blade play. Note that the pivot screw connects to a piece that can rotate freely, so just because you're turning the pivot screw doesn't mean that you're changing the tightness. I have this issue on my Shallot, but not my Leek. However, I know that it can appear on the Leek as well, so make sure the pivot isn't turning on the other side. Revdevil, did you try that assembly method and have it not work?

Hope this helps, if anyone needs clarification on anything feel free to ask.
Click to expand...

I attempted it on a different model (thicker frame lock) and it seemed to work. I just started having the Shallot issue today, have not tried it yet. :(
 
Heiheit said:
I don't like to disassemble frame locks because of this very reason. You'll need to play with all the screws to get it perfectly. Try loosening the pivot all the way then tightening the body screws completely then screwing the pivot back in to place.
Click to expand...
Yeah I tried that one, didn't work :(

Tsujigiri said:
Mine is the 1660CB. Deutsch ist nicht eine Problem für mich. Ich denke, handfest soll genug sein. I don't know if it's really that much of an issue of how much you tighten the screws, I just tighten them down tight enough. I used the reassembly method Revdevil described, by putting it back together with the blade 90 degrees to the handle. I tighten the pivot screw so it's as loose as it can be with zero side to side blade play. Note that the pivot screw connects to a piece that can rotate freely, so just because you're turning the pivot screw doesn't mean that you're changing the tightness. I have this issue on my Shallot, but not my Leek. However, I know that it can appear on the Leek as well, so make sure the pivot isn't turning on the other side. Revdevil, did you try that assembly method and have it not work?
Hope this helps, if anyone needs clarification on anything feel free to ask.
Click to expand...
Alright, sounds good, thx. I will try this method the next time I take it apart!


Tsujigiri said:
Deutsch ist nicht eine Problem für mich.
Click to expand...
Cool :D Aber bleiben wir lieber mal beim Englisch, damit die anderen mit lesen können :)
 
Well, I tried.

First off, thanks to RevDevil & Tsujigiri.
I tried the method that you describe. I managed to get rid of the lockup issue, but it won't work with zero blade play, I had to leave a tiny amount of it. I guess if I had a better lubricant, I could tighten the pivot down a bit more and the blade would still come out as fast.
I only have Ballistol, what do you guys use?
 
All screws have torque settings and patterns, when you put the wheels on your car you don't tighten in a circle you cross the pattern so the lug nuts are evenly tightened. A knife is no different.

The way that has always worked for me is to start by getting all the screws in place. Tighten the pivot screw just until it starts to pull the body together then stop, also making sure that the blade is in the unlocked possition. You can put it at a 90 degree if you like but usually I just get it so the detent is on the side of the blade. Next tighten the body screws within a 1/2-full turn of tight then tighten down the pivot screw until it stops. Tighten the screw nearest the stop pin first and in the case of the leek do the back screw then middle screw. You will now need to back out the pivot screw for adjustment as you will most likely be unable to move it with the pivot fully tight. If you didn't already you can now also back out the pivot screw and apply loctite then set to proper tension.
 
I just tried your method too, thank you.
But it seems that in whatever way/order I put it together I can't get rid of the lockup problem without having to accept a tiny amount of blade play. Don't get me wrong, it's barely even noticeable. It just bugs me that it obviously can be done, like it came from the manufacturer.
 
amue said:
I just tried your method too, thank you.
But it seems that in whatever way/order I put it together I can't get rid of the lockup problem without having to accept a tiny amount of blade play. Don't get me wrong, it's barely even noticeable. It just bugs me that it obviously can be done, like it came from the manufacturer.
Click to expand...

When you adjust the pivot screw mere pressure (force of turn) without moving the screw will make small changes, play with it for a bit and see if you can find a happy medium.
 
Well can't eliminate that blade play 100%...but so little remains, if I said it bothers me I should be considered anal about it. Thx for the tips though, appreciate every help.
 
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