Kershaw Mini-Cyclone -Stiff Opening

Wavester

Wavester

Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,665
Just got my 5th Cyclone - the Mini-Serrated version. When compared to my mini-cyclone non-serrated - that one snaps open with authority. This one however will not. I was thinking of either loosening the tork screw or adding some kinda oil - which do you think would work best and if doing the oil - what tpe of oil is preferred..?
 
WD-40 or 3-in-1 works fine for me, but I dont use those knives on food. Use mineral oil for food prep knives.

I would oil it really well and work the action a few dozen times before adjusting the pivot, but thats just me.
 
Wavester, keep flippin it. It will break-in eventually. Some take a little longer than others.

As for the oil, 3 in 1, hoppes gun oil, Remoil, pretty much whatever you have lying around will work, just don't use more than a half-drop.
 
Don't open the "dog squeezins and drippens can of :barf:" - Mike might get a bit too excited.

We don't need that.
 
J_Curd said:
WD-40 or 3-in-1 works fine for me, but I dont use those knives on food. Use mineral oil for food prep knives.

I would oil it really well and work the action a few dozen times before adjusting the pivot, but thats just me.
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Anything but WD40, which is great for protecting metals from rust, but is a poor lubricant. Dries to a gummy film.
 
Good catch DF. I didn't notice the WD-40. I tend to stay away from it as well for the reason you mentioned.
 
I use WD-40 alot to remove "funk" from my knives. I guess I never really noticed it "gumming up" but that's good to know. It works great to get adhesive off of blades.

I'll stick to me 3in1 or gun oil from here on out!
 
This thread got me thinking, so I went ahead and broke down a pair of old knives. I've never done it before, and since I have my first Kershaw coming soon, I figure I'd better learn! I lubed the heck out of both of them with some Hoppes, since one is about to disappear into a turnout pocket and the other into the wife's purse. I went ahead and hit my EDC light as well.

My question here though how often do you guys find you need to re-lube?

Thanks!
 
My MC TI/ZDP, which has seen 95% of all pocket time since April 2007, gets a tear down every three to four months, basically just to clean out the lint and stuff. The lube is still good at that interval.
 
Thanks! I figure'd I see a decrease in ease of opening or feel some grittiness if it needed it. My EDC's wind up in a high salt environment (my pocket :D) but knock on wood I've seen no problems.

I also meant to ask, do you reapply loc-tite? I had 1 knife that had it, but I opted not to reapply. It didn't seem necessary.
 
Shore08 said:
I also meant to ask, do you reapply loc-tite? I had 1 knife that had it, but I opted not to reapply. It didn't seem necessary.
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When the pivot screw starts coming out really easy put you a dab,
just a dab now(;)) back on it. You won't have to do this very often.
Make sure you use blue loc-tite, set the pivot screw were you want
it and let it sit over night........good to go.
 
As SV said, use very little. Use a toothpick to put it on the first two or three threads at the start of the screw. Make sure you let the knife sit in the open position.
 
Since my regular job is auto wholesale, we sell tons of threadlocker from 6ml to 250ml bottles.
One thing to remember is that you never touch the tip of the tube/bottle to what you're applying it too.
Threadlocker is an anaerobic. When you add metal (in this case even metal ions) from screws and such to an anaerobic solution it will contaminate it.
You do this by closing the cap on your threadlocker. Anaerobic means absence of air.
By introducing metal and then capping it off, you will eventually ruin your container of threadlocker and have to buy a new one.

Use the drop method when you need a little more, or the toothpick method which works very well.
Purple may also be used on pivot screws (industry #222). It is not as strong as the blue, but we're talking screws here, not bolts.

mike
 
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