Kershaw Outcast

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whitedoor

Joined
Oct 12, 2002
Messages
103
Is there any word on how the Kershaw Outcast is holding up? I remember there were some questions regarding whether D-2 was appropriate for a larger chopper blade.
 
I have put mine through its paces a number of times. So far, no problems. I have unintentionally destoyed a Junglee machete, and a Cold Steel Kukri, so I hope that this one holds up.
Dave.
 
ok, I'm bucking the trend here. the outcast's thin handles did not fit my hand. I'm used to rounder / slightly bigger handles for chopping. Also, the heavily recurved blade wasn't very efficient and wasn't balanced like a machete (which is what I wanted to use the Outcast as). Penetration in wood wasn't the best with the factory edge (too thick I think). I'm selling mine and sticking to locally made parangs / goloks.

Plus point : the kydex sheath is really well made and the breakaway opening method and button strap are good.
 
I thought the thin handle would be a problem-but it is really not that bad. the recurve is ok on Tennessee hardwood as long as hit with the fat part of the blade. I have not used it long grass machete(SP?) fashion but it seems a little heavy for that.
 
Plus: the chopper cuts like blazes - chopped arm thick limbs easily

Minus: it busted on me a few days ago. Awaiting comments from Kai Cutlery (Europe).

Will try to keep posted.

Hattie
 
Have not used mine too extensively but it has performed very well at chopping tasks. I find the edge a bit thick but that will change once I need to sharpen it. I am debating on putting a turks head knot at the end of the handle to help retain it in the hand but that might be more of me wanting to tinker.
 
Was wayback and wanted to carry-out some of the cedars so tried it in place of my Gransfors forest axe so I could sheath.

Six hours of cedar chopping and not a dent or chip.

Very impressive tool.

Brian
 
spyken said:
Also, the heavily recurved blade wasn't very efficient and wasn't balanced like a machete ...
Click to expand...

What do you mean by balanced like a machete, not enough power on a swing?

Penetration in wood wasn't the best with the factory edge (too thick I think).
Click to expand...

Yes, it is spec'ed at 0.050-0.070" *before* sharpening, wood working edges are generally 0.020-0.030" after sharpening. The edge was radically increased in thickness specifically because of the inherent limitations of D2, not a good idea to trade cutting ability and ease of sharpening for wear resistance in a chopping blade, not a lot of D2 axes for good reason.

I'm selling mine and sticking to locally made parangs / goloks.
Click to expand...

Hard to beat that for wood work.

-Cliff
 
Anybody got a pic from the top, showing the handle thickness? I'd assumed it was rounded, not flat.....?
 
whitedoor said:
Is there any word on how the Kershaw Outcast is holding up? I remember there were some questions regarding whether D-2 was appropriate for a larger chopper blade.
Click to expand...


I wondered the same thing. I saw the ad and thought that it looked like it would be a good chopper but when I saw that it was made of D2 it kind of threw me. :confused:

Looks like at least one has broken...
 
Here is a review I posted a while back.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=383095

After using it for a few months I have come to the conclusion that the edge on the Outcast is not the best for this knife. I have decided to have a convex edge put on mine. As it stands now the edge that it comes with only lasts so long and once it got dull it was very hard to get an edge back. Convexing the edge will aid in ease of sharpening and quite possibly last a bit longer than it has. I will also suggest wearing a pair of gloves for any extended chopping sessions.
 
Mine is still doing well, although it seems to have a slight bend, not sure if I never noticed or if it got it from chopping. I have done no prying.

At least in my case I agree with KV - I have one of the late production, thick edged models, and whether I convex it or not (I probably will) I'm pretty sure I'm going to wind up thinning the edge out. It is tough as hell but not the best at penetrating efficiently on a chop.
 
Nick if you have the means to do so, adjust the primary grind to reduce the edge thickness to something sane like 0.025". It will not only increase cutting ability greatly (reduce impacts and feedback, promote higher precision, reduce fatigue, etc.), but make life a lot easier when you apply a relief grind to get a wood working edge edge angle. You do not want to end up having to sharpen an bevel a quarter of an inch wide with something with the horrible grindability of D2. If you leave the edge at 1/16" thick this is the type of extreme width you will end up with with a high relief grind.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Nick if you have the means to do so, adjust the primary grind to reduce the edge thickness to something sane like 0.025". It will not only increase cutting ability greatly (reduce impacts and feedback, promote higher precision, reduce fatigue, etc.), but make life a lot easier when you apply a relief grind to get a wood working edge edge angle. You do not want to end up having to sharpen an bevel a quarter of an inch wide with something with the horrible grindability of D2. If you leave the edge at 1/16" thick this is the type of extreme width you will end up with with a high relief grind.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Holy crap!!! Cliff and I agree on something!!! :D
 
Well, if you two agree, I guess it's time Mr Outcast met Mr Burr King. :)

Let me make sure - you're both saying I should put the full flat ground side on the platen, and regrind it so my new primary bevel runs from the spine (leaving that at its current thickness) to the shoulder of the edge, and the thickness at that shoulder should be around 0.025", something around half or so of its current thickness. (Or put a shallow saber or convex grind on the bottom inch or so and take it to that edge thickness.)

Right?
 
Cliff and I agree that the edge needs to be reground. I feel it should be convex ground. He feels it should be something else. Hold off on regrinding yours until I can post a review of my convex edged Outcast.
 
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