I'm having a hard time getting good pictures right now, but this one works! I've come a long way since my previous thread... the wave has moved back a bit, and the spine is now evenly ground. I removed all of the material from that odd grind between the drop and the spine on my belt grinder, smoothed the edges on the wave a bit... and also did a mild regrind. Gone is the "shoulder" that Kershaw's hollow grind process left behind the tip. The spine is a bit thinner as well, and I did as much as I could with my current skill and tools to slope back the transition a bit between the hollow and the spine. It's not perfect and I'm not 100% thrilled with it cosmetically, but it's as close to what I want as my current situation will allow me to get. In any case, it performs NOTICEABLY better than before - at least with cardboard and newsprint, it glides with an ease I've never known previously. The edge itself is convex ground at ~15 degrees per side (relative to the belt, not considering deflection) which I've done with this blade previously, but not with this level of performance.
Also, I (mostly) got rid of the idiot marks on the front edge of the handle by buffing away the DLC all the way around on the edges. It's at its roughest up front (I need to figure out a more "precise" way of finishing it up) but it looks pretty cool in real life and the photo doesn't do it justice. I didn't want to remove the coating from the "faces" of the handle, partly because I doubt it'll wear well, and partly because I fear the dark Desert Ironwood scales I got might not look as good against bare aluminum. Someday I'll get some aluminum scrap and mess with different textured finishes.
I finished the blade the same as the handle - buffing with a coarse Dremel buffing wheel, sort of Scotch Brite type material. It's not perfect, you can see some inconsistencies with the finish just as you can with the grind, but that's about as good as I can manage with a narrow tool. Someday I'll get a wheel-type buffer/grinder and do it properly. So, it does a GREAT job of removing DLC, smoothing things out, etc. but there's a limit to how well you'll be able to manage a finish on something like the face of a blade.
On the other hand, I highly recommend using said Dremel buffing wheels on wood scales - aside from doing a great job sanding it down, it actually brought out the grain texture a lot. It doesn't really show in any pictures I've tried, but it makes the wood a lot grippier and would probably make it "pop" a lot more if clear-coated. You definitely want to progress to finer wheels and change directions, just as with normal sanding, but the Dremel makes it a very quick and easy job, especially with the curves and crevices.