Kershaw RAM

Joined
Feb 15, 2003
Messages
2,575
The Kershaw RAM is a flipper designed by Grant & Gavin Hawk -
it is one of the Kershaw flippers in a series started with the Tim Galyean "unassisted assist" JunkYard Dog.

RAM_2.jpg
RAM.jpg


The flippers on these Kershaws are very efficient utilizing pre-loaded tension of the finger to fully flip open the blade - like a spring assisted opener - but there there is no spring - as the pre-loaded tension of the finger acts like the spring.

The RAM blade really does snap open crisply - more so than any of the previous Kershaw flippers that I was so impressed with like the JunkYard Dog II, Groove, and once I got practised the smaller JYD (links to respective reviews)

RAM = Restraint Articulated Mechanism - the Hawk lock keeps the blade closed and offers resistance to pre-load finger tension, so that when it releases the blade flies out and then locks open.

size open -
RAM_sz2.jpg
RAM_sz.jpg


size closed -
RAM_cls.jpg
RAM_cls2.jpg


The RAM is between the JYD and Groove, and feels much bigger than the very slim Leek.

The clip looks the same/similar to the one on the Groove - mine came attached for tip up carry - I move it for tip down carry like my other Kershaw flippers.

The flipper is closer to the Groove style - but it is set so that it is mechanically more efficient.

However a note about the flipper action - if one is used to the previous Kershaw flippers and use the finger tip opening technique - occassionally I found I could not even budge the flipper - almost like it was locked closed.

This obviously was NOT the case - it was my technique - using a more obique angle approach - almost half way between straight on finger tip, and at right angles like pulling a trigger (so the orientation is closer to 45degs) then the flipper works astonishingly well.

lock lever -
RAMdtl.jpg

my thumb sometimes rests on the lock lever when opening the flipper
this is not a good thing as one might prevent the lever from moving freely and may foul the opening - I had to re-train myself to keep the thumb clear of the lever.

Sliding back the lever unlocks the blade. Some like the fact one's digits are away from the handle opening so the closing is safer.

RAMstuds.jpg

There are stylish studs that are actually very effective for manual one-handed opening of the blade- and there is a very substantial stop pin - more like a post.

RAMmarks.jpg


My sample is still made with Sandvik 13C26 - Kershaw are migrating to Sandvik 14C28N - an exclusive based on 13C26.

The blade also is very well profiled like I observed on a recent 13C26 Leek blade - the hollow grind is much thinner by feel and does not widen too much toward the edge - this is a very good thing - and makes the cut through better than the original Leeks.

I liked this knife a lot - for both the lock and the very positive and effective flipper - the opening is even more astonishing than the previous Kershaw flippers and this is saying a lot - a very impressive knife.

--
Vincent
http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
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Great review! And the deeper hollow grinds on the Leek and deep hollow grinds on the RAM sound very, very pleasing.
 
Great review! And the deeper hollow grinds on the Leek and deep hollow grinds on the RAM sound very, very pleasing.

Thanks Thom -
always a pleasure to hear from you.

One of my long time peeves is the widening/thickening of the blade toward the edge of hollow grinds -

Hollow grinds are achieved with opposing circular grinds -
HollowGr.jpg


Typically a hollow grind is like -
TypicalHollowG.jpg

where there is a distinct thickening/widening of the blade before the actual final cutting edge - simply because it is easier to manufacture - even handmades often are like this.

An ideal hollow grind would be closer to this -
IdealHollowGr.jpg

where there is NO thickening toward the edge - but this may be harder to manufacture since there would be heat problems grinding toward the thinning edge.

The newer Kershaws - at least on my samples of one each on this RAM and the 13C26 steel Leek, are much thinner toward the edge and widen only very little.

Like you, I think this is a very good thing.

--
Vincent
http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
http://clik.to/UnknownVincent
 
I post a review of the R.A.M. a few weeks ago and I was very impressed too!

For that price, is astonishing good! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Great write up on the RAM. :thumbup:
It is an awesome knife. Mine hasn't left
my pocket since I've had it.
 
Great review! You also have what are the most useful pictures I've seen on bladeforums; clear, basic, compare with others, and with no artsy fluff (not that I'm opposed to the artsy stuff but there's a time and place for everything).:thumbup:
 
You also have what are the most useful pictures I've seen on bladeforums; clear, basic, compare with others, and with no artsy fluff (not that I'm opposed to the artsy stuff but there's a time and place for everything).:thumbup:

Many thanks for the very kind words - much appreciated.

Actually a lot of my knife photos are actually done using a cheapo flatbed scanner - please see -

some general flatbed Scanners advice

Scanners address some very common and frequent problems for knife (small object) photography - focus, exposure and light quality.

There are some limitations to scanner photography - but my scanner photos are meant to be utilitarian, to serve a practical purpose of illustrating.

Many thanks,

--
Vincent
http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
http://clik.to/UnknownVincent
 
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