Kershaw Rogue

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Nov 1, 2004
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3,352
I've been waiting for Kershaw to come out with an automatic for a long time, and now they have two: the Breakout and the Rogue. I got the Rogue today, and for my first Kershaw auto, I'm impressed. It's made in the USA and carries a street price of around $95. The model number is 2001. Let's take a closer look at this fine auto...

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The Handle: The Rogue is 4-7/8" long when closed and 1/2" thick not counting the pocket clip. The handles are made of black anodized aluminum with black Trac-Tec inserts. The Trac-Tec inserts aren't like rough sandpaper (skateboard tape) but more like a grippy hard rubber. They're not uncomfortable at all.
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The knife is an open back build, something I've never seen before in an automatic. The pillars are Kershaw's typical hourglass shape, and they're black.
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The handle is held together with six black T-8 screws - three on each side - and one black T-8 screw as the blade pivot pin screw.

Closed, the blade is centered in the handle.
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Since this is an automatic, opening the knife is easy; just press the firing button. It's blackened steel and has a neat safety - a black steel slide. Showing the safety on, which makes the slide go between the button and the handle...
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And the safety off, showing the slide in the rearward (off) position...
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The button and safety are located where they should be; not on the spine, not low on the handle, right where they can be accessed without switching your grip or making awkward maneuvers. The safety is secure and solid. The firing button is easily accessed and pushed while not being so loose as to cause accidental deployment. I carry the Rogue in my right hip pocket with the safety off, and it's never opened unless I wanted it to.

The firing button also acts as the lock when the knife is open. To unlock it, you simply hold in the button while closing the blade. This is easy one-handed. You can also flick the safety to the "on" position with the blade locked, and this will double-lock the blade open by preventing the firing button (now a lock release) to be pushed down.

The Rogue has a blackened steel pocket clip, which is held on with two T-6 screws. It has Kershaw's logo stamped in, and can be mounted right-hand tip up or down, or left-hand tip up. It's very secure, but not too tight.
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In use, the Rogue is hefty and useful. There are no sharp points and I must say, using it has become second nature for me. It's a large knife and fills my hand.
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Continued below due to photo upload limitations...
 
The Blade: The Rogue's blade is made of Sandvik 174C28N stainless steel, which Kershaw hardens to 58-60 on the Rockwell scale. The blade is satin finished and is 4-1/8" long with a 4" cutting edge. It's hollow ground from the 3/4 mark up the blade. It's also 1/8" thick. There's jimping on the thumb ramp, and it's pretty light in terms of sharpness and spacing. It's functional, especially with the slight ramp, but I'd like to see it a little sharper.
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Out of the box, my Rogue came sharp enough to slice paper, and after some stropping, it was shaving hair. I haven't used it hard so I can't comment on the edge-holding, but it seems to be really good.

I was going to comment on the speed of firing and the recoil in the "Handle" section, but I figured I'd do it here. The blade opens very fast, but some of my Kershaw assisted openers get out a bit faster. The recoil is manageable, but it caught me off guard the first time. I thought that the heft of the blade coupled with the heavy-weight handle would reduce felt recoil to a small amount. It didn't. The Rogue almost flew out of my wife's hand the first time she hit the firing button, but after that first time, it's very manageable.
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The Kershaw Rogue is a very well-made auto, and it's at a very reasonable price for a made-in-the-USA folder.
With a Kershaw Packrat for size comparison...
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The opening speed on the Rogue is adjustable. There's different holes in the tang that depending on where you insert the coil spring, will adjust firing speed. I have mine on the quickest deployment possible, but if you want it tuned down you can.
But whatever you do, DO NOT disassemble the Rogue unless you have to or enjoy a challenge, it's very tough to reassemble.
 
Already did. It's a pain to get back together, but after disassembling it twice, I've got it down.

If you end up taking it apart again, post some pics please.

I've got it in my head to mod one of these into a manual folder and would like to see how feasible that would be.
 
thanks J.N. for great pics & the informative report. i think the warning of the powerful opening probably prevented some possible accidents.[cogent info]
 
If you end up taking it apart again, post some pics please.

I've got it in my head to mod one of these into a manual folder and would like to see how feasible that would be.

Sure will. I think it would be very easy to make the Rogue a simple button lock (non-auto) folder.
 
JN, is it a normal push button auto to take apart? and is the safety a problem,when you take the knife apart? :) great part 2 review!
 
JN, is it a normal push button auto to take apart? and is the safety a problem,when you take the knife apart? :) great part 2 review!

I'll post detailed photo instructions when I get home and charge my camera batteries up :thumbup:
 
Great review. That's a hunk of a knife for the price !

Pretty impressive looking.


Tostig
 
HI JNieporte -

Cool review!

That really looks like a blur with full auto.

I have a ZDP composite blur and even with just the a/o it has the handle recoil you speak of.

Thanks for a really nice and in depth review.

best regards -

mqqn
 
I had to put my Rouge into action.We had to destroy a deer that impaled it's rear thigh on an iron fence post.It was a big deer about 180 lbs so we could not lift it off the post once we put it down.All I had with me on duty was my Rouge so I used it to amputate the leg.The knife worked great and cut the meat and tendons like butter.For an auto knife it is also a good working knife,just took me a while to get the blood out of the spring.
 
The opening speed on the Rogue is adjustable. There's different holes in the tang that depending on where you insert the coil spring, will adjust firing speed. I have mine on the quickest deployment possible, but if you want it tuned down you can.
But whatever you do, DO NOT disassemble the Rogue unless you have to or enjoy a challenge, it's very tough to reassemble.

Could you take some pictures of the knife disassembled if it is not a bother, I would love to see how the whole adjustable firing speed thing works.
 
^^^^^Along those same lines, how does the knife come from the factory? Assuming "slow" "medium" "hardest" on the spring setting?
 
^^^^^Along those same lines, how does the knife come from the factory? Assuming "slow" "medium" "hardest" on the spring setting?

It opens fast and hits hard. I like this knife so much and they are priced so well that I have two.
 
Could you take some pictures of the knife disassembled if it is not a bother, I would love to see how the whole adjustable firing speed thing works.

I'll see if I can get some pics. It's one of those things that you have to see to understand if you've never disassembled an auto before and how the coil spring puts torque on the blade.

Snapped some quick pics with my phone. I need to edit them a bit with annotations and then I'll post up a little explanation.
 
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Please excuse the dirty residue on the blade and my girly looking hands, I can assure you I'm not a girl. I just have OCD about trimming my nails.

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The coil spring in the auto is compressed when closed, causing tension, and this tension is released in the form of rotational torque when the blade opens by pressing the "opening button", alleviating the coil spring of most of its tension. (but not all of it)



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As you can see in the picture above, the coil spring is anchored into the handle, and the non anchored "lip" of it, which I've circled, is inserted into the blade. When you rotate the blade in the counter clockwise position, tension is applied to the spring, which wants to return to it's netural state like shown in the picture above.



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As you can see in the above picture, there's 3 different holes that the coil spring can be inserted into. Further clockwise means more tension is built up, since the coil spring is stressed more the farther you rotate it in the counter clockwise direction.



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This last picture shows the blade in the fully opened position. You can see that the furthermost counter clockwise position has the most tension on the spring. It's about 90º past in's neutral point in the setting I have, and then about 60º and 30º past it's neutral point in the other two settings respectively when going from left to right. The more the spring rotates, the more tension that builds up, so by having more or less rotation depending on where you insert the spring, more or less torque will be released.


I hope this makes sense to you guys and I've tried to explain it the best I can.

Basically, the more you stress the spring, the harder it opens. The furthermost counterclockwise hole gives the fastest opening, the middle gives a median opening, and the farthest clockwise has the softest opening.

Hopefully this can be of help to anybody confused about the adjustable opening speed. I think that mine came from the factory at the hardest setting but I can't remember. It opened pretty stout from the factory if that means anything.
 
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