Kershaw Skyline

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Nov 1, 2004
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Today's review is for Kershaw's new flipper opener, the Skyline (model 1760). A lot of people like this knife because it's good quality, inexpensive, and made in America. I'm one of them. You can find the Skyline in stores for about $30. Here are the details...

Handle Details: The Skyline is 4.25" closed, and weighs only 2.3 ounces. It's a linerlock, but with only one liner. The handle scales are black G-10 and quite nicely textured. There is a lanyard hole provided, and the knife is held together by only three Torx screws; two (T-6) in the backspacer, and one (T-8) as the blade pivot screw. The blade pivot pin is hex-shaped to fit into the handle for removal without a special tool, while its screw is the above-mentioned T-8 screw. The pocket clip is brushed stainless and reversible for right-hand tip up or tip down. It's moved via two black T-6 Torx screws. The pocket clip is kind of stiff, and coupled with the texture of the G-10, it might be hard to pull from your pocket. A simple remedy to this is to remove the clip, bend it slightly, and replace it. The linerlock is jimped, and it engages the blade for its (the liner's) entire length when locked open. There is no blade play at all when open. When closed, the blade is pretty well centered in the handle. The handle also has a really nice shape to it; the finger curve near the blade really helps with control. When grasped, it's easy to forget that you're holding a knife, yet it isn't flimsy. I rather like this one.

Blade Details: The Skyline's blade is made of Sandvik 13C26 stainless, and it has a stone-washed finish. It's 3.12" long and ends in what I can only call a Loveless-style drop point. There is a thumb stud on each side of the blade, but they're pretty useless for this knife. They act as the blade stop pin(s). Instead, the Skyline opens with a flipper; a small protrusion sticking out the back of the knife when closed. When open, the flipper acts as a small ricasso to keep your fingers off the blade. Using the flipper is easy; just hold the knife in your hand and put your index finger on the flipper. While rolling your wrist, flick the flipper. Flicking your wrist doesn't open the knife as reliably as rolling for some reason, and it probably causes more wear on the pins.

Speaking of wear; some people were concerned about flipping the knife open since it only has one liner. That maybe the stop pin would crack the lone G-10 scale or something. Not the case. The liner is mounted about .01" higher than the G-10 scales, removing the possibility of the scales cracking from a stop pin strike.

Back to the blade --- it's very sharp. It takes a razor-sharp edge very easily, and keeps it for a while. Resharpening takes only a few seconds on a strop. Those Swedish sure know how to make steel :thumbup:

check out the Skyline at http://www.kershawknives.com/productdetails.php?id=430

1760.jpg
 
Yours has a stonewashed finish? The one I have is bead blasted.

Either way I think it's the best Kershaw I've used to date. Very consistent flipper on this knife. I love how thin and light it is too.
 
I looked at 5 of them at Canfields Sporting Goods Store. All 5 were bead blasted. None of them would open all the way by using the studs or the flipper. Maybe some oil would solve that problem. They all locked open solid (with 2 hands) and they felt like they are all well built. I'm planning on buying one and doing some mods to it.
 
None of them would open all the way by using the studs or the flipper. Maybe some oil would solve that problem.
How's your flipping technique Wunderbar? I can honestly say each and every Skyline that leaves the factory can fire hard via the flipper. Most folks just need a little fine tuning with their index finger. Pretty short learning curve though.
 
My flipping technique for the right hand, and I'll try to be as detailed as I can: hold the knife with your thumb pointed toward the blade pivot. Index finger goes on the flipper; middle finger rests right where the open end of the pocket clip touches the handle; ring finger rests between the screws and the hump on the pocket clip; my little finger is usually below the handle, but touching it. In this position, your wrist and hand should be in a straight line with your forearm. Turn your hand inward (palm down) so your thumb is facing your left side. Now, with your index finger on the flipper, slide your index finger downward while simultaneously rolling your wrist back to its original straight position.
I don't "flick" the flipper at the point like some people do, instead I give the entire flipper a downward pull. I also don't "flick" my wrist, I roll it smoothly. I've found that this technique opens the knife smoothly, without a lot of movement, and without the loud CLACK as the blade locks open. The finger pull alone should be enough to open the blade halfway; the roll just finishes it.

If you're having trouble flipping it, try applying some Tuff Glide to the washers on each side of the blade and work the blade a few times. Mine opened nicely without this, but it was even faster afterward. Or try loosening the blade pivot screw.
If you want to open the knife without touching the blade or flipper, disassemble the knife and polish the washers and blade tang with simichrome polish. Lube it with Tuff Glide and work the blade open and shut a few times. Now it will open just by flicking the handle, yet the blade stays closed until you give it a definite flick. Cool, huh?
 
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ive played with them before..they're not bad..i just don't like the plain G-10 and no liner...not the lock, but just plain old steel liners...plus i wanted a bigger knife...but if don't mind the size, then it's perfect
 
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