- Joined
- Nov 17, 2013
- Messages
- 2
Gents & ladies, been a few years since I've been on here.
This is regarding a design flaw of the "Spec Bump" folder with AO. Mine is in G10 / S30V. This knife wasn't / isn't quite ready for prime time. This is essentially the same knife as the "Speed Bump" as well, so this modification will apply to both. I'm pretty sure these have been discontinued for some years.
As many of you know, and probably everyone knows if you've had one, the latch/ locking mechanism is interesting / innovative but ultimately a failure, due to it being "not positive enough" in the locked-open position. It works great out of the box, but there's so little "purchase" of metal on metal on the "shelf" where the round thumb stud & "bar" sit that it takes only the slightest push to disengage, and with any downward pressure, to have the knife fold up on your fingers. And, to make matters worse, after awhile, if ANY lint/debris gets in there, that tiny purchase on the shelf is disengaged from the get-go the minute it is opened, hanging on the edge. Not only not a hard use knife - unacceptable for any use. With lint in there, it folds up on you at the slightest push.
However, there is a fix, which Kershaw should have and could have done before releasing it. And it's fairly simple - took me about 1/3rd of a day. The only reason I can think of why Kershaw didn't do this modification I'm about to describe, is because, although it creates a very positive locked open position, it is SO positive, that you lose your one-handed closing ability - it takes both thumbs to unlatch and close it on purpose - one thumb on each of the two symmetrical stubs (one on each side), to push forward and close.
I will attach pics but not give a whole lot of detail at first (unless/until someone wants same - you have to email me)...
All you do is get a punch and punch out the "Detroit RedWings Winged-Wheel-Shaped" piece with the tiny ball bearing in the middle (have no clue the point of that ball bearing - doesn't do anything that I can see - that ball bearing just stays inside that piece without moving at all times; both when in and out), for lack of a better description, and it comes out along with the spring and the thumb stud monolithic unit with the bar connecting the two studs. Next, you get a longer spring (and preferably slightly stronger) from a gunsmith, Brownells, or whathaveyou - and slowly take off coils until it works right - ends up being between half-again-as-long and twice-as-long as the original spring. Next, you dremel the "channel" longer - about 1/8th of an inch additional length (maybe slightly less). Next you have to do a lot of smoothing and fitting and pop everything in and out several times to test it; you have to take quite a bit of material off and smooth around the "front / top" of the knife so that the thumb stud has enough clearance to open & close without resistance, down close to your index finger where it's first opening, or almost finished closing. You also have to remove a bit of material at the L-shaped juncture (both sides of the L) where the thumb stud ultimately comes to rest in the locked-open position.
Pics show the final result. Post or PM for more info. Note that mine has some play in it now; it's loosy-goosy because I didn't take care not to make the channel the right geometry on its way back while extending its length. I went "UP" and back too much, rather than straight-back or slightly-down-and-back, allowing for some play accidentally. If you do it right, it should be pretty tight. Regardless, it is rock solid in terms of not going to accidentally close - it is NOT closing without meaning to very intentionally - by pushing on both studs (both sides). You have to take off one coil at a time on the spring (or dremel off about a half coil at a time) to fit it - there's very little wiggle room between too long and too short, so go slowly. You want it as tight as it can be while still allowing it to "just" open - because the spring will weaken over time and you can lube it some to help.
Oh, it also opens very quickly and smoothly, espec. after lube, but even without lube.
Anyhow, voila - I salvaged a useless knife into a usable one - very pleased since I shelled out around $80 for this knife if I remember right way back when. It's not perfect, but usable - my fingers will remain intact even under hard use - definitely more positive than even a typical liner lock now. I'm pretty pumped about this because I lost my G10 / S30V Avalanche hunting 4 years ago, and lost my G10 / S30V Leek in a burglary 3 years ago, and can't afford to replace them - this is my only S30V knife left.
Edit: Sorry. I cannot figure out how to add pics. I clicked on "Insert Image" but it only lets me insert a link, not a file (why would I need that button to insert a link?). Well, crap, I was really hoping to put these pics up..... anyone know how?
This is regarding a design flaw of the "Spec Bump" folder with AO. Mine is in G10 / S30V. This knife wasn't / isn't quite ready for prime time. This is essentially the same knife as the "Speed Bump" as well, so this modification will apply to both. I'm pretty sure these have been discontinued for some years.
As many of you know, and probably everyone knows if you've had one, the latch/ locking mechanism is interesting / innovative but ultimately a failure, due to it being "not positive enough" in the locked-open position. It works great out of the box, but there's so little "purchase" of metal on metal on the "shelf" where the round thumb stud & "bar" sit that it takes only the slightest push to disengage, and with any downward pressure, to have the knife fold up on your fingers. And, to make matters worse, after awhile, if ANY lint/debris gets in there, that tiny purchase on the shelf is disengaged from the get-go the minute it is opened, hanging on the edge. Not only not a hard use knife - unacceptable for any use. With lint in there, it folds up on you at the slightest push.
However, there is a fix, which Kershaw should have and could have done before releasing it. And it's fairly simple - took me about 1/3rd of a day. The only reason I can think of why Kershaw didn't do this modification I'm about to describe, is because, although it creates a very positive locked open position, it is SO positive, that you lose your one-handed closing ability - it takes both thumbs to unlatch and close it on purpose - one thumb on each of the two symmetrical stubs (one on each side), to push forward and close.
I will attach pics but not give a whole lot of detail at first (unless/until someone wants same - you have to email me)...
All you do is get a punch and punch out the "Detroit RedWings Winged-Wheel-Shaped" piece with the tiny ball bearing in the middle (have no clue the point of that ball bearing - doesn't do anything that I can see - that ball bearing just stays inside that piece without moving at all times; both when in and out), for lack of a better description, and it comes out along with the spring and the thumb stud monolithic unit with the bar connecting the two studs. Next, you get a longer spring (and preferably slightly stronger) from a gunsmith, Brownells, or whathaveyou - and slowly take off coils until it works right - ends up being between half-again-as-long and twice-as-long as the original spring. Next, you dremel the "channel" longer - about 1/8th of an inch additional length (maybe slightly less). Next you have to do a lot of smoothing and fitting and pop everything in and out several times to test it; you have to take quite a bit of material off and smooth around the "front / top" of the knife so that the thumb stud has enough clearance to open & close without resistance, down close to your index finger where it's first opening, or almost finished closing. You also have to remove a bit of material at the L-shaped juncture (both sides of the L) where the thumb stud ultimately comes to rest in the locked-open position.
Pics show the final result. Post or PM for more info. Note that mine has some play in it now; it's loosy-goosy because I didn't take care not to make the channel the right geometry on its way back while extending its length. I went "UP" and back too much, rather than straight-back or slightly-down-and-back, allowing for some play accidentally. If you do it right, it should be pretty tight. Regardless, it is rock solid in terms of not going to accidentally close - it is NOT closing without meaning to very intentionally - by pushing on both studs (both sides). You have to take off one coil at a time on the spring (or dremel off about a half coil at a time) to fit it - there's very little wiggle room between too long and too short, so go slowly. You want it as tight as it can be while still allowing it to "just" open - because the spring will weaken over time and you can lube it some to help.
Oh, it also opens very quickly and smoothly, espec. after lube, but even without lube.
Anyhow, voila - I salvaged a useless knife into a usable one - very pleased since I shelled out around $80 for this knife if I remember right way back when. It's not perfect, but usable - my fingers will remain intact even under hard use - definitely more positive than even a typical liner lock now. I'm pretty pumped about this because I lost my G10 / S30V Avalanche hunting 4 years ago, and lost my G10 / S30V Leek in a burglary 3 years ago, and can't afford to replace them - this is my only S30V knife left.
Edit: Sorry. I cannot figure out how to add pics. I clicked on "Insert Image" but it only lets me insert a link, not a file (why would I need that button to insert a link?). Well, crap, I was really hoping to put these pics up..... anyone know how?
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