Kershaw Vapor : some notes

Cliff Stamp

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First off a shot with the small Sebenza :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/kershaw/vapor/vapor_sebenza.jpg

The Vapor is made from AUS-6A stainless steel, very thin blade stock, 0.105", with a 2 7/8" blade weighing 80 g. The knife has a full flat grind and tapers to a decent thin (0.017-0.020") and acute edge (17 +/- 1 degrees). The handle is made from stainless steel, lots of speed holes, and the blade is retained via a very well done integral lock.

I carred it alongside a the small Sebenza for about a week, at the start both were shaving sharp and both degraded very slightly for a few days with no real difference in behavior on peeling potatoes, trimming meats, cutting paper and some styrofoam. However when some trout had to be cleaned, the Vapor went smooth-dull after a dozen while the Sebenza could still catch the occasion arm hair.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/kershaw/vapor/vapor_trout.jpg

In terms of cutting ability, the Sebenza had seen an angle adjustment which reduced its edge to ~10 degrees per side, so it generally outcut the Vapor, however NIB, the cutting ability would have been much closer, and my small Sebenza is actually far more deeply ground than spec'ed, so with both at the spec'ed grinds the geometry is actually very close and the difference more due to individal grind variations.

Some significant differences were noted however, when cutting the styrofoam the recurve on the vapor allowed it to outcut the thinner ground Sebenza, and on thick cuts through stiff vegetables, while the Sebenza would start off easier, by the time the foods reached the top of the grinds the force required would peak rapidly and both knives would cut about the same.

As for ergonomics, the Vapor has a much more ergonomic shaped handle and would be preferred for extended work, aside from the speed holes which can fill up with debris and be annoying to clean.

The lock on the Vapor is surprisingly well done and is as good as any integral or liner seen. It easily takes fast and heavy spine whacks and light to moderate torques, but heavy torques such as twist splitting hardwood birch flooring will readily disengage the lock. The only downside is that the lock engagement is moving to the right fast, if it continues at this rate it will be full to the side in a few months.

So with a decent initial cutting ability (25 +/-1 lbs on a puch cut through 3/8" hemp), the edge was reground to 10 degrees to put it on an equal footing to run it against the CRKT Point Guard and a few other knives. This is when the problems began. Setting a micro-bevel revealed the edge fracturing under the stones. The knife could be made decently sharp where it would shave but a little scratchy, about 50% of optimal.

I will carry and use it EDC for a few more weeks and as it is sharpened hopefully move back into quality steel. Until this happens no edge retention or cutting comparisons can really be done because the sharpness only reaches about 50% of optimal and it degrades too fast. Now I know what you are thinking - possibly burnt on grinding. I would think so to, except there was no color change, and in fact the reprofiling was done with a file and 220 SiC hone.

I did a quick search on this knife after getting it from Thom, and while some people praise it highly, and I can see why, there are complaints about QC, which really isn't that shocking for its price. If you do get a good one with solid steel and a well crafted lock then it really is a standout for its price.

-Cliff
 
Cliff...great review! I've always liked the vapor and vapor ii. In fact, I still feel that if they offered a version with upgraded steel, it would be one of the best knives ever.

(It would be nice to have a lanyard hole as well....but you can't have everything.)

Oh, mine were from the initial run which was done in Japan. Although I can't find the small one anywhere....hopefully next time I move it will show up when I'm packing. (Btw, the Japanese run was priced the same as the Chinese ones...I suspect they were higher quality as well, although I don't have anything to back that up.)
 
Yeah, this one is extreme from a price/performance standpoint. I have been using it a lot and while the sharpening still isn't perfect it is better, it is hard to sharpen recurves on soft steels without getting a burr.

-Cliff
 
I have been using this for awhile, I gave up on using it as a precision cutting folder for a couple of reasons, mainly the edge retention is fairly low so it doesn't take much use to knock off that high level of sharpness, and second due to the extreme tendancy of the steel to burr readily it isn't easy to obtain it in the first place.

I usually leave it with a fairly coarse edge, usually taking only minimal steps to remove a burr if it is used on rods, and the Vapor gets used as both the primary loaner knife as well as the really rough knife which gets used to open cans, cut sods, scrape metals, poke/pry and the like. It gets touched up at the end of every day to keep it with a nice working level of sharpness.

The lock quickly moved to the extreme right and then developed a bit of slop which was enhanced by frequent fairly heavy use, twist wood splitting and the like which also caused significant vertical blade play, enough so that you can hear and see the blade snap up and down if you shake it when opened for example. The lock stability is interesting enough not overly effected, still spine whacks readily and needs heavy torques to disengage.

Overall, I would not be displeased with this considering the price and would see it as a way to introduce people to quality folding knives as it is a large step up from knockoffs. The only thing that stops me from recommending it is that others have noted large issues with consistency in the lock, often rejecting several defects in stores before finding one with acceptable lock up.

Ref :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/vapor.html

-Cliff
 
I liked my Vapor just fine. Well, the second one. The first one had some problems and was returned but the replacement is fine. For the price point of these knives they are hard to argue with for a fine beater EDC knife.

Hey Cliff. Many times on the intergral frame locking folder or liner locks the repair for the lock ( beside replacing it ) when it moves clean across the tang of the blade to the other side is to break the knife down and take the lock side handle and place it flat so the detent ball is staring you in the face on an anvil. Use a flat 3/32 diameter punch and a good size ball peen and whack the lock one good time after positioning the punch near the edge of where the lock meets the blade. The end result is that the lock will squish out just a hair at the impact point and usually enable you to start over with one that won't slide clean across the knife anymore. It may or may not require some working to get it smooth again but this is done by many makers to gain some more life from the lock mechanism. Of course once they wear too much the only cure is to replace the lock by rebuilding a new one or retiring the knife. This method works fine when the lock is still engaging the blade fine though with no apparent gaps or movement from blade wobble vertically. In some cases it can tighten up that vertical movement if it is just slight though.

STR
 
Yes, I may do that if the lock security becomes an issue, I don't think it will though because the blade will likely wear out first due to the aggressive sharpening. I also accidently hit the opening hole on the stones when sharpening which makes opening awkward and is just one of the reasons I prefer holes.

-Cliff
 
I got one of these recently and decided to use it as an experimental super-thin-edge knife. I brought down the front half of the blade to a near-zero grind on a coarse waterstone, but I can't do the same for the back half because of the recurve.

Since I'm beating the hell out of this knife anyway: what's the easiest way to remove the very last bit of recurve so I can sharpen on a flat stone? I really just use the front half of the recurve anyway. Thought about trying to do this on the waterstone itself, but it seems like a great way to gouge out a stone. Bastard file?
 
i have the vapor 2 and i love it it is my edc and i have just out a lanerd through the last screw near the end
 
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