Khukri finish questions

D

Duzzy

Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
468
sweet said:
Hard use, explain your idea for me. Hard use by my standard, all of my H.I blades are lightweight geared more towards a fighting type tool & light work duty, not meant for axe duty as the current line seems more geared up for. No not the 1st time I have used it, 1st post I made about it here dates back to 2003. Thanks!
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I own two CAK's and a Tarwar. I suppose my question is how well the finish is "attached". If I thunk my Khuk into a tree will the finish be gone from every point of contact? Or can I thunk it for several months before I start needing to think about redoing it?

Is it a finish meant for show? Or for protection? Maybe that's a better way of phrasing it...
 
From the get go, every time you use the khuk it will leave marks in the finish from abrasion and sap etc. The finish is for both show and protection. The shiny finish has been shown to resist rusting somewhat better than the villager models with the satin finish, although the satin finish is easier to maintain and is what alot of people prefer for their "users".
 
Karda said:
From the get go, every time you use the khuk it will leave marks in the finish from abrasion and sap etc. The finish is for both show and protection. The shiny finish has been shown to resist rusting somewhat better than the villager models with the satin finish, although the satin finish is easier to maintain and is what alot of people prefer for their "users".
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Ho hum... I apologize that I'm not communicating my thoughts very well.

If I painted my CAK's with latex paint, over their current polished finish, I would assume that the paint would be completely gone. If on the other hand, I could magically create a steel finish similar to the Type III military hard anodizing process (you dip aluminum in acid making it porous, dip in it "dye", and then seal it: so the finish is almost "part" of the metal)--well, I would expect it to last through a much more severe beating.

Better?
 
Ok , between your two posts i think i'm getting the "gist" of what your asking.

The "finish" on H.I. khukri is not a coating, it is the actual blade polished to an almost mirror finish, and as such will show marks and abrasions as any polished surface would. It is not attached to the surface of the blade but is the actual blade itself. Adding a patina, bluing or even using a MIL Spec coating will belay the effects of rusting etc. But will only do so as long as the coating is maintained. I myself just use them, clean the properly and oil before i store them for winter and if i decide to, i bring the finish back on my buffing wheel.
 
Venice Will said:
I saw a "Murali BGRS" pic posted by C.S. Graves on this thread - can someone give me a lead on who the maker/importer was ...Himalayan? C.S. doesn't have any email or message links...

That's one of the Kuk's that's caught my eye...


Thanks!

Will
Sarcoam@aol.com
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It is a Himalayan Imports khukuri, probably bought here in this forum from a DOTD.


EDIT: I think last few questions would be better off in their own topics, where the Info isnt so hard to find later, instead of cluttering up the Picture thread.
 
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While the area of contact for chopping khuks will see some scratches and the like, wood and similar fibrous vegetation will also polish the blade on their own somewhat. I etched my Sgt. Khadka Bonecutter with ferric chloride, and after some degree of use, a bit of steel around the sweet spot has been polished back to a satin, almost mirror finish. Deeper etches/finishes/coatings etc, as well as khuks only seeing lighter use, would likely maintain whatever surface appearance longer.
 
I wonder if one of the modern bake-on finishes would hold up to that kind of use, like Cerakote, Gunkote, etc. Gun parts experience plenty of friction and impact.

Only problem is, for best adhesion you'd have to strip the blade down completely, degrease it 100%, parkerize the whole thing, then apply the finish over the parkerizing. Those finishes don't stick nearly as well to virgin metal. I also don't remember how hot the bake is, and hard steels lose their temper at relatively low temperatures.
 
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