Khukri Question

madbomber1998

madbomber1998

Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
182
Heya.

I picked up a partially finished Cold Steel Khukri blade the other day - it didn't have an edge put on it and doesn't have a handle.

I can handle the handle and could normally put the final grounding on it - but have never tried grounding down a reverse blade like on the inside of a khukri.

How do I put an edge on the blade blank? (On a normal blade I'd use my belt grinder)

- Mark
 
madbomber1998 said:
Heya.
How do I put an edge on the blade blank? (On a normal blade I'd use my belt grinder)

- Mark
Click to expand...

Osiyo Mark and Welcome!:thumbup: :cool: :D

Mark by any chance do you know how to catch a unique rabbit?

No?












U nique up on him!

Now, do you know how to catch a tame rabbit?


No?













Tame way, U nique up on him!

Now do you know how to grind an edge on a kukri blade?

Just like you would on any other knife.;) :thumbup: :D :cool:

Sorry for the smartass answer but I was just feelin ornery today.;)
But no kidding you do grind the reverse curve the same way you grind any knife blade on your belt sander. A lot of the guys here have purchased a cheap Harbor Freight belt sander to keep their kukri's sharp, best way actually.:thumbup:


.
 
madbomber1998 said:
ok, just wanted to know before I went and screwed up the blade :-)
Click to expand...

Just take it slow and easy and be sure to keep the blade reasonably cool to the touch. It's okay if it gets a little warm but if it gets hot enough so that it changes color it means the temper has been removed from that area. Generally a light straw color won't bother it much but if it turns blue then it's done got soft there.:(
But you probably already know all that.;)

Do you know which CS kukri model you managed to snag?
I've bought several of the Cold Steel Red River and Hudson Bay knife blanks to modify and mess around with. They're excellent for making different utility knives and I've cut one down to make a karda out of for one of my specialized kukri sets.:thumbup: :cool:
 
ya, I got the San Mai III Gurkha Kukri

http://www.coldsteel.com/sanmaigurkha.html

I'm happy - got it for just over $30

My first Kukri blade - I liked it so much even though I don't have it done yet that I ordered a couple of the cheap-o cold steel kukri machete's and ordering a couple things from HI. Go well with my martial arts work I think :-)

But yea, I do some custom knife work - mostly re-grinding blanks and handles and such for people on the side. Trying to figure out what I want to do for a handle. Not sure which direction I want to go with it - traditional or not, and what material; looking at maybe some Brazilian Bloodwood; got some sitting around here already. Or maybe something hybrid, a little more modern handle style then para-cord wrapping the sucker. (I like paracord alot :-)

Anyways.

- MArk
 
and yea, I'm going to make a set of the little knifes for my CS kukri setup - I was thinking about a laminated norwegian style blade for the sharp one and dunno for the other one. Still looking into that one.

Also, my blade came with the CS sheath, but I don't like it much. Thinking about making up a kydex one and wrapping it in leather and / or paracord. Anyone got any thoughts on sheaths if you had to make one from scratch? Same with handles and such for the Kukri.
 
btw, what angle do you guys recommend for the khukri blade? And I take it yall recommend convex blades?
 
madbomber1998 said:
and yea, I'm going to make a set of the little knifes for my CS kukri setup - I was thinking about a laminated norwegian style blade for the sharp one and dunno for the other one. Still looking into that one.

Also, my blade came with the CS sheath, but I don't like it much. Thinking about making up a kydex one and wrapping it in leather and / or paracord. Anyone got any thoughts on sheaths if you had to make one from scratch? Same with handles and such for the Kukri.
Click to expand...

Well you're good to go then Mark.:thumbup: :cool:
I'm not sure whether Dan Koster's tutorial covered Kydex scabbards for kukris or not but he could probably give you some tips if he ain't too busy.

A laminated Scandi blade will make an excellent karda.:thumbup:
As to the chakmak an old file cut down in the old traditional manner should do the trick, you need something that's a bit harder than the San Mai center should do the job perfectly.

Edit: Forgot to add that since you're grinding your own edge on the CS blade you could make it a nice convex that won't be sticking in the cut like the CS Kukri's reportedly do....
 
DocH said:
Wow.. where Does one find the blanks like You two did?
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Doc, methinks it's rather hard to find the CS Red River and Hudson Bay knives and blade blanks these days as CS quit making them quite sometime ago.
But as Mark suggested you might find some on the Bay. I found some of the ones I got at both a flea market and a gun & knife show. There for quite a while they were pretty cheap because there were so many on the market but as the supply started dwindling they started going up in price. I got some of mine for $2.00 a blank and later they were $10.00 a blank.:(
 
tedwca said:
Moved to the Cantina as there is no HI content. Carry on....
Click to expand...

Sorry :-) I'm new here....



Yvsa said:
Well you're good to go then Mark.:thumbup: :cool:
I'm not sure whether Dan Koster's tutorial covered Kydex scabbards for kukris or not but he could probably give you some tips if he ain't too busy.
Click to expand...

mmmmk, I'll look around a bit then...



Yvsa said:
A laminated Scandi blade will make an excellent karda.:thumbup:
As to the chakmak an old file cut down in the old traditional manner should do the trick, you need something that's a bit harder than the San Mai center should do the job perfectly.
Click to expand...

ok, old file...I think I can dig one up from a buddy of mine who does timberframing...he has some old japanese steel ones that I think he doesn't use anymore, supposed to have been the s**t when he was using them.



Yvsa said:
Edit: Forgot to add that since you're grinding your own edge on the CS blade you could make it a nice convex that won't be sticking in the cut like the CS Kukri's reportedly do....
Click to expand...

Yea, I was thinking about that. I don't do convex alot though, so I'll have to learn how to do it well :-) Mostly do super-sharp little skinning knives and fighting knives, not alot of demand for convex from my customers....at least the ones I deal with...
 
For the Karda, you might want to try a Jarvenpaa Pukko:
puukko.jpg

Available at: Ragweed Forge
Very traditional, can be had in 3 3/8", 3 7/8" or 5", stainless or carbon steel, They come very sharp and can be made even sharper quite easily. A little more than the plastic handled knives, but classier. Ragnar also sells some blade kits if you want to make your own.
For the Chakma (steel) and old file does work well. Try this: if you have one, use a surface grinder to take the teeth off one side and one edge. Keep water on itt o keep it cool and not soften it. This will give you a good smooth, hard surface to steel with. The smooth edge will be good for striking a firesteel (just leave a sharp edge between it and the smooth side. Then you have the rest of the file to use as a file -- good for all kinds of outdoors projects. You can also grind a chisel point on the end to use as a chisel, makes accurate notches fast and easy.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
For the Karda, you might want to try a Jarvenpaa Pukko:
puukko.jpg

Available at: Ragweed Forge
Very traditional, can be had in 3 3/8", 3 7/8" or 5", stainless or carbon steel, They come very sharp and can be made even sharper quite easily. A little more than the plastic handled knives, but classier. Ragnar also sells some blade kits if you want to make your own.
For the Chakma (steel) and old file does work well. Try this: if you have one, use a surface grinder to take the teeth off one side and one edge. Keep water on itt o keep it cool and not soften it. This will give you a good smooth, hard surface to steel with. The smooth edge will be good for striking a firesteel (just leave a sharp edge between it and the smooth side. Then you have the rest of the file to use as a file -- good for all kinds of outdoors projects. You can also grind a chisel point on the end to use as a chisel, makes accurate notches fast and easy.
Click to expand...

ya, I've gotten stuff from ragweed forge before - good stuff. Did a few knives from blades before from there.

Thanks on the file / chisel idea though. I'll try that.
 
Yvsa said:
A lot of the guys here have purchased a cheap Harbor Freight belt sander to keep their kukri's sharp, best way actually.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

I have a belt sander, but I like to use one of those padded sanding blocks with sandpaper attached. I find it to be a bit of a meditative experience. OK.... maybe I'm kinda obsessive/compulsive about it as well. Do it by sound & feel. I use grits from 600 to 1,000 to 1,500 to 2,000 to 5,000 to 9,000 (thats 0.5 micron). Something really cool about such a big, heavy, convex-edged blade being that sharp. Gotta be super-careful around them, though - seems like you start bleeding if you just look at them wrong....
 
Ugly Duck said:
I have a belt sander, but I like to use one of those padded sanding blocks with sandpaper attached. I find it to be a bit of a meditative experience. OK.... maybe I'm kinda obsessive/compulsive about it as well. Do it by sound & feel. I use grits from 600 to 1,000 to 1,500 to 2,000 to 5,000 to 9,000 (thats 0.5 micron). Something really cool about such a big, heavy, convex-edged blade being that sharp. Gotta be super-careful around them, though - seems like you start bleeding if you just look at them wrong....
Click to expand...

Munchi, when using sanding blocks, what sort of motion do you use? Traditional back and forth sanding motion? Circular?
 
Carolina River Rat said:
Munchi, when using sanding blocks, what sort of motion do you use? Traditional back and forth sanding motion? Circular?
Click to expand...

I'll tell ya how I do it... work from spine to edge - always use the same pressure to keep a consistant curve on the convex. Near the end of each grit grade, I go at both 45's - but with a lighter touch so I don't mess with the curve. At 5 & 0.5 micron grits, I use a greater angle with a very light touch at the very edge itself to get a real high polish right at the cutting edge. Kind of gently massaging the edge to a consistant, curved "V" at the very edge of the convex. Gets way sharp, lasts long, & doesn't get stuck in wood. Also easy to touch up in the field by putting a square of sandpaper on my thigh, pressing the blade into it with just enough pressure to conform to the curve of the convex, and drawing spine to edge. I've finally learned to just carry a small, padded sanding block with me. Ever since my first khuk, I've become enamored with the strength & simplicity of the convex edge. It may be the low-tech, old fashioned way.... but it has a lot of advantages!
 
Ugly Duck said:
Ever since my first khuk, I've become enamored with the strength & simplicity of the convex edge. It may be the low-tech, old fashioned way.... but it has a lot of advantages!
Click to expand...

Yeah, and when you loosen up and let it flow it just comes natural, and therefore easy.:p ;) :D
 
OK 'nother question...is there a particular set of grits (mmmm grits) that you use? A particular sanding pad? Do Lowe's and Home Depot carry this stuff? The reason for all the questions is that I'm having trouble getting my M43 to take a hair splitting edge.
 
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