Khukri sharpening?

I

inncubus

Joined
Feb 13, 2007
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What would you chaps recommend, either procedures or tools, for putting a nice edge on a large khukri?

I've been having problems with this for a while, although I've managed an ok sort of edge on it, I'm wanting a proper sharpness that I'm not getting yet.

I've got a variety of stones, steels and gadgets, but they all seem to be either too wide or too narrow for the part that curves in towards the spine (recurve?). Even when I've had some luck it seems the edge angle ends up changing too much (assuming it's not supposed to).

The one I've been working on is a bit tatty now, but I've got a couple of MOD issue ones coming soon and I want to keep them in good condition (comparitively-they may be used, but this current one is just battered and a somewhat messy) so any help will be much appreciated.
Cheers.
 
Nice edges on a khukuris require either power tools or patience; I suggest both.

Going by hand, use your most aggressive hone, from tip to above that notchy thing on the blade, to raise a burr across the edge on the opposite side. Switch sides and repeat. Switch sides, switch to a slightly less coarse hone and repeat the first two steps. Doing so will 'set' your edge. Once that's done, you need to polish it. Polishing involves replacing the deep scratches in the steel with smaller scratches. Sandpaper on a sanding block is a good way to go. Start with 320 and move to 400, 600, 900, and so on. If you're very dilligent at removing previous scratches before moving on, a 600 grit finish can be pleasingly sharp and a 1,500 grit finish can be sublime. If you rush through things and go for 'good enough,' replace those numbers with 4,000 grit and 8,000 grit.
 
The biggest problem I have always found is not doing enough work with the most coarse hone, often a decent file works best.

-Cliff
 
If you have access to a 2 x 72 grinder, a series of slack belts works the best... get you a nice burr developed and then lightly buff off just the burr. If it is dead dull I start with a fresh 220 or worn 120, then go up to 400, thats usually fine enough for a nice toothy working edge. It is important to use slack, soft backed belts and not the hard belts, this lets you follow the contour of the recurve with ease.
 
The only power tools I've got are a couple of dremmels, a rotary sander (hand held thing) and an angle grinder; I'm guessing they're not going to be much help?

I've just had a proper look at where the problem seems to be, and I've noticed it seems to be that the stones are too wide. When I'm doing the recurve they're catching either side of the curve rather than folowing the edge; if that makes sense.

Would it be better to use curved stones/rods/sanding block?
 
I carried a Nepalese Khukuri while working in the highlands of East Timor. As with all my knives I sharpened it by hand with a gerber honesteel diamond coat and finish with another regular steel. It will develop a rather large wire edge but once you take that off takes a very nice edge Like it was said earlier you need patience .
 
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