Kick on Blade Denting Spring

M

Mark86

Joined
Jun 14, 2020
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Hi, new here - had a quick question that I wanted your advice on. I've recently been wanting to get into traditional folders so I bought a cheap Kershaw Gadsden (patterned like a mini trapper) to toy with - I've noticed that the kick on the blades have been denting the springs on the inside where they close and contact each other. Realize a fix would be to close the blades gently, but is this something that is supposed to happen with slipjoints?

I've searched and seen a lot of threads here about blades contacting the spring, but didn't see one about the springs themselves actually denting from the kick. I've never seen this on Victorinoxes before so was wondering if it's just a cheap knife, or if other knives with this pattern (Case, etc) also naturally have this problem. Thanks!
 
Mark86 said:
Hi, new here - had a quick question that I wanted your advice on. I've recently been wanting to get into traditional folders so I bought a cheap Kershaw Gadsden (patterned like a mini trapper) to toy with - I've noticed that the kick on the blades have been denting the springs on the inside where they close and contact each other. Realize a fix would be to close the blades gently, but is this something that is supposed to happen with slipjoints?

I've searched and seen a lot of threads here about blades contacting the spring, but didn't see one about the springs themselves actually denting from the kick. I've never seen this on Victorinoxes before so was wondering if it's just a cheap knife, or if other knives with this pattern (Case, etc) also naturally have this problem. Thanks!
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Welcome, Mark.
Didn't know Kershaw made "traditionals". They're not known for that.
Not sure how to answer your question. I've never noticed the problem, but if it does happen, who's going to see it?

Suggestion for traditionals (which I've just called "pocket knives" most of my life): start with Case. Old company, reasonable prices, lots of patterns, available at hardware stores and farm and ranch stores everywhere.
 
Thanks Vince! Agree it seems like a tiny problem - guess i was just wondering if it was a design flaws with just this knife that could potentially damage the spring over time, or if this is just normal wear and tear for knives like this. Appreciate your response all the same!
 
Mark86 said:
Thanks Vince! Agree it seems like a tiny problem - guess i was just wondering if it was a design flaws with just this knife that could potentially damage the spring over time, or if this is just normal wear and tear for knives like this. Appreciate your response all the same!
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I will guess that most backsprings are pretty tough steel, whether stainless or carbon. I doubt it will be a problem.
 
I didn't know the Gadsen, so I looked it up. Then I had to look up 7CR17MoV. So, since I can operate Google I consider myself to be an expert.

Just kidding, of course.

This isn't a common problem with traditional knives. I've got knives that are 100 years old, and I don't remember seeing the problem you describe. The Gadsen is Chinese made and an inexpensive knife. It's possible that material choices were made that didn't take normal wear into account. Metals tend to work harden with us, it's possible that the damage will reach a point were it won't continue to worsen.

In any event, enjoy your knife, just use it and don't worry. When it's time for the next one, think about one of the old names from the USA, England, Germany, Italy... it's a buyer's market for traditional knives these days.
 
Prester John said:
Welcome, Mark.
Didn't know Kershaw made "traditionals". They're not known for that.
Not sure how to answer your question. I've never noticed the problem, but if it does happen, who's going to see it?

Suggestion for traditionals (which I've just called "pocket knives" most of my life): start with Case. Old company, reasonable prices, lots of patterns, available at hardware stores and farm and ranch stores everywhere.
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Kershaw actually started off with more traditional lockback folding hunters and such, but yeah I don't think they do many these days especially any I'd buy ( I think the knife in question came out last year and there was a porch thread about them )

My guess is that the spring is on the softer side.
I've never noticed it happening kn any of my knives but I just may have to look and see now.
 
Reach in with a toothpick and feel if its a dent or a bump. In certain light a bump can appear to be a dent. Some traditionals have a small bump where the kick contacts to help the kick I suppose. I have seen this in a couple of mine but I'd have to be home and look at them to remember which ones.
 
I've never heard of the kick denting the backspring. That does not mean it can't happen, though.
I have heard of and seen a few instances of the tang wearing a groove in the backspring to the point the spring does not move when the blade is opened and/or closed. (I have a old Schrade Walden jack knife from I believe the 1950's, that suffered from that before I got it, in fact)

If the kick is denting the backspring, IMHO something is very wrong. My guess is the backspring was not properly hardened and tempered.
I'd send the knife in to Kershaw for a manufacturing defect. If the kick is able to dent the spring, chances are the tang is also doing damage, no matter how much you keep the joint lubed, or what lube you use.

How much has the nail nick dropped? Can you still access it easily? One way of lowering the blade in the well is to file/grind the kick -- and it don't take much to make a noticeable difference. The dent will have the same effect as filing/grinding the kick.

I don't know your budget. If it is sufficient, I'd suggest getting a CASE. If CASE is a bit more that you wish to spend, Rough Ryder (made offshore but an American company) makes an excellent knife. I'd also recommend Rough Ryder (AKA: "Rough Rider". They recently changed the spelling to "Ryder") to try out different patterns without bankrupting the bank. RR makes every pattern Case does, and some Case has "seen fit" to "put in the vault" and not make, like the Barlow.
Case did take the Barlow out of the Vault and made some again in 2019. However, from what I understand, they put it back in the vault for 2020.
 
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Got it, thanks everyone! It sounds like it's an issue with a poor choice of materials and not something that happens with better knives. I mainly bought it because I wanted something to try out and I liked how clean it looked with the smooth black g-10 handles and minimal branding - preferred it a little bit to the more textured bone-type handles - pricing wasn't really a concern.

Oh well, sounds like an excuse to buy a better knife :) On a side note, if you guys have any recommendations for my picky preference of mini trapper patterned knives with smooth black handles, would love to get some suggestions :)

Thanks again for the warm welcome everyone!
 
It's a $22 knife and functions fine. A mark on the backspring does not mean it's seriously flawed. Don't worry enjoy your knife.
 
Don't even worry about it, I'm sure it's more a mark than an actual deep dent that's going to affect it in any way. Back in the old days tangs were softened to pretty close to spring temper, which meant both tang and spring were close to the same hardness. That's still done on knives from GEC and Case as well as others. With some of today's harder steels I'm sure companies are just leaving the blades at full hardness, which in some cases is likely close to 60RC. With springs generally around 40ish you can see that the harder kick would mar the spring a bit with repeated closings. I've actually seen it on some very snappy 1095 bladed knives too. I'm sure it won't affect the knife performance at all though, at least not before the knife is completely worn out.

Eric

PS- Brownshoe must have been typing while I was and he said it in a lot less words lol.
 
Eric, I think you're right about the blade hardness. Thanks again everyone for the advice.

As a side note - I ended up buying a similar Case Mini Trapper (w/ black micarta scales). I don't think it will have the same problem as the Kershaw (I guess time will tell), but I was actually quite alarmed at how its fit and finish seemed a lot less refined than the cheap Chinese-made Kershaw. It had minor gaps between the layers, these edges where the tang meets the spring when open were irregular, the blade grind was coarse and toothy - in my opinion all totally acceptable, just stood out unfavorably next to the Kershaw. The Kershaw had none of those flaws and was more smooth and precise all over, and feels like the substantially more expensive knife. Strange world, huh :)
 
Mark86 said:
Eric, I think you're right about the blade hardness. Thanks again everyone for the advice.

As a side note - I ended up buying a similar Case Mini Trapper (w/ black micarta scales). I don't think it will have the same problem as the Kershaw (I guess time will tell), but I was actually quite alarmed at how its fit and finish seemed a lot less refined than the cheap Chinese-made Kershaw. It had minor gaps between the layers, these edges where the tang meets the spring when open were irregular, the blade grind was coarse and toothy - in my opinion all totally acceptable, just stood out unfavorably next to the Kershaw. The Kershaw had none of those flaws and was more smooth and precise all over, and feels like the substantially more expensive knife. Strange world, huh :)
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Case went through a period of time where their Quality Control was absolutely horrible. They have since made things much better and are producing quality knives again. You probably got one from the previously mentioned batches. You could always send it back.
 
You should be more worried about the blade edge itself hitting the spring. Sometimes this happens towards the tip, more often it happens where the spring bulges a bit to allow for the pin. Not every slipjoint is created the same, or with equal attention to these details. I can't speak for Kershaw, but unless/until the blade itself becomes damaged, then there's nothing to worry about, IMO.
 
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