Kiln controller help!! :confused:

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May 9, 2004
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I bought one of those kiln controllers on ebay and my olympic kiln arrived today. So I pulled out the wiring diagram and I am lost. Could someone explain to me how to wire the controller and relay to the kiln. It is 120v.

Here is what I think I understand.
1) I understand that 1/LT & 3/L2 go to the heating elements.

2) 11 & 12 are power, 10 is ground

3) 1 & 2 are to the thermocouple, watch polarity

Here is what I am really confused about
1) If you look at the diagram it looks like that the neutral power runs to 12, 4/T2, and A2.

2) Then it looks like the hot power runs 11, 8.

Do you have to run a wires to connect the different connections.
Example; Neutral power wire to 12 and 4/T2. From 12 to A2

Could some please simplify this for me.

Also, Any suggestions on where to mount my thermocouple. there is a hole in the top. There are two pictures and the instructions. The first picture is the kiln and relay diagram, the second is the wiring diagram, and the third is the instructions.
 

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Wil,
I've got one of those set-ups also.
I thought the control input to the relay was 32VDC, but I haven't hooked it up yet.
The diagram just looks wrong to me.
I'll hook mine up and work it out when I get home from work (I'm on grave shift), and I'll let you know what I find out in the early morning...

Howie
 
wilhurley said:
I bought one of those kiln controllers on ebay and my olympic kiln arrived today. So I pulled out the wiring diagram and I am lost. Could someone explain to me how to wire the controller and relay to the kiln. It is 120v.

Here is what I think I understand.
1) I understand that 1/LT & 3/L2 go to the heating elements.

2) 11 & 12 are power, 10 is ground

3) 1 & 2 are to the thermocouple, watch polarity

Here is what I am really confused about
1) If you look at the diagram it looks like that the neutral power runs to 12, 4/T2, and A2.

2) Then it looks like the hot power runs 11, 8.

Do you have to run a wires to connect the different connections.
Example; Neutral power wire to 12 and 4/T2. From 12 to A2

Could some please simplify this for me.
You can connect your wires at the controller and relay terminals (vice splice/solder as drawn) to simplify some of the wiring. I think it would also be easier to just run a wire from terminal 12 on the controller to the 4/T2 terminal on the relay. (see red in drawing)
Regards,
Greg
1e2ja8
1e2hqr
 
Ripper,
Much cleaner hook-up.
The only thing else wrong with the set-up is the relay contacts are labelled backwards.
The L1 & L2 are the Line-in, and T1 & T2 are the output contacts of the relay.
Thanks for drawing the pictures.
One thing I think I'll add is a 20A circuit breaker in the input line to the relay, and a small fuse (1/4A) after the switch on the indicator line input.

Howie
 
I looked at what you guys said and filled in with colored lines for different wires. Does this look right now. Also the relay is backwards?
 

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Wil,

Yes, just substitute L1 for T1 & L2 for T2. The connections for A1 & A2 don't matter, and just move the L & T labels on your drawing.
On the power cord line in, Green (ground) to 10, Black (HI) to 11, and White (Neutral) to 12.
With the thermocouple correctly wired, and the display turned on, it should read room temperature.

Howie
 
Thanks for all the help. I do have a couple other questions. The thermocouple that came with it is pretty long, can I shorten it by removing some of the ceramic insulators and cutting the wire? And is the top of the kiln a good place for the Thermocouple?
Wil
 
I got my controller all wired up tonight and it seems to work fine. But I have one question. should the relay be kinda loud, You can hear it kick on and off pretty good, Is this normal? Never seen a heat treating oven in action.
 
Wil,
Yep, it might be loud.
From looking up the specs on the relay, it's a solenoid actuated mechanical relay - designed for air conditoning systems.
You could find a solid state relay that makes no noise, but then you just be out some more cash for a little noise reduction, plus maybe a 32V DC source for the relay switching...
I'll go with the noise for now.

Howie
 
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