KISS of Sharpening your blades?

T

timelinex

Joined
Jul 30, 2020
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I've got an edge maker pro system that works ok on my kitchen knives. It makes my kitchen knifes sharp enough, but the primary complaint being that it doesn't seem like the edge stays that way for long. The primary issue is my camping/fighting/survival/etc are too thick and likely require different edge angles.

Whats a good system thats pretty foolproof and not too time intensive to keep a sharp edge on our camping/fighting/survival/etc knives (Chris Reeves pacific, Ka-bar, etc)?

I got a recommendation for both a Lansky 4-stone diamond system and a Spyderco Tri-angle system, but I've read mixed reviews on both.

I know whetstones and/or a system like Wicked edge is the best. But knife sharpening is NOT a hobby of mine so I would like to KISS (Keep it simple stupid) on making my knives functionally sharp in as little time/effort possible. Preferably ~$100 or under.

Much appreciated
 
DMT large Benchstone in course/xtra course.

Light passes using a sharpie to color the edge to ensure your consistent on the apex.

The large surface means less passes, and the diamond will make short work of a wide assortment of steel types.

The coarser grit will make your knives very sharp, albeit not incredibly refined.
 
MolokaiRider said:
DMT large Benchstone in course/xtra course.

Light passes using a sharpie to color the edge to ensure your consistent on the apex.

The large surface means less passes, and the diamond will make short work of a wide assortment of steel types.

The coarser grit will make your knives very sharp, albeit not incredibly refined.
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I assume you mean something like THIS ? My reluctance to getting bench stones is I have to control the angle. I know that it's not rocket science, but I bet there is a steep learning curve until you get the hang of it. If I am sharpening a few knives once or twice a year, I'm going to be doing alot of"getting the hang of it" just to unlearn it by next time.
 
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An inexpensive remedy for guided sharpening with larger bench stones is a simple DMT Aligner clamp. Costs about $15 and can be used with any bench stone, as the adjustable guide arm slides on the tabletop. The video below demonstrates how it's used. If 'functionally sharp' is the main objective and you're not necessarily needing any major thinning or reprofiling of thick-bladed, large knives, then this may be the simplest way to do it without spending a lot of $$. With large, heavy blades, the money is better spent in good quality, larger stones for the sake of faster, efficient grinding. The inexpensive guided clamp will help hold the angle while you're training your hands for the feel of it all. But, you really want a larger stone that cuts well, to speed the work. Spend the bulk of your money on that.

 
Look at the Hapstone system's they now how them so you can upgrade from a table based system and then get the clamp attachment later on if you want,or you can get the a clamp based Hapstone and then go the other way and get a table later on.
 
timelinex, there was a lot of mystery and confusion about freehand sharpening when I first started to learn it, and a lot frustrating trial and error, too, until I read The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening, by John Juranitch. When I finally understood the principles of sharpening and could get sharp edges I was actually surprised how simple it is. There is a learning curve, just like with most other things, but I wouldn't describe it as "steep", and it was certainly interesting. The great info and advice I got on this forum made a lot more sense, too, after I finally I learned the basics

I think "controlling the angle" is overrated. I don't worry about it much. I don't get sloppy about it but the worst thing that can happen is that I slightly convex the edge, which isn't a bad thing.

I don't have anything against guided systems or machines. Getting a good, sharp, thin knife edge that does what you require without rolling or chipping is the important thing. But freehand sharpening is generally less expensive, with less equipment, has little or no set-up time, and a shorter learning curve. It makes a lot more sense in the wilderness (you mention camping and survival) if I'm packing everything in, or if I just want to quickly touch up an edge with a small, lightweight abrasive. Plus, I get a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that I don't get with a guided system or machine.
 
A sharpie marker to see where you're hitting on the bevel and a King Neo 800grit waterstone.

"Simple Rick"
 
OK, guys. I read all your replies and did more research on my end as well. I've narrowed it down to:

1. Buy 2 10" DMT stones (xtra course/ course and the fine/extra fine)

2. Bite the bullet and get the Wicked Edge we100. I really didn't want to spend this much. But I'm also a subscriber of the Buy Once Cry Once mantra. It seems like not only is it up there with the best way to sharpen knives, but it makes it fast and easy as well.

The stones are obviously the most versatile and bang for your buck. But I'm just worried about messing with angles. Am I just blowing that part out of proportion? The angle guide mentioned seems like a possible solution to this, albeit probably a bit clumsy?

Any words of wisdom between the two?
 
There are a few different answers to your question. I've been sharpening for the last 10+ years and I own an Edge Pro, A Wicked Edge, a Spyderco Sharpmaker, a Lansky and a Slicing Edge Sharpening System that consists of ( 2 ) 8" Paper Wheels. And hopefully in the near future I'll have a Tormek T8 with the Japanese water stone addition!

I don't have much freehand experience but I do have lots of guided system sharpening experience.

With that said:
1: eye protection (when working with the paper wheels)
2: some gloves, nothing too heavy just something to protect you (when working with the paper wheels)
3: remember to always put some marker on your edge to make sure you have the correct angle (i use red dry erase marker for better visability)
4: If you don't have a slight burr opposite the side you are working... you ain't done! Keep going slowly and lightly until you get that burr.
5: invest in a 5x or 10x loupe (it's amazing how often you won't be hitting the actual edge you think you are hitting)

The absolute fastest and most versatile are the Paper Wheels $27 online. You mount them on a $50 harbor freight grinder and you're off to the races. One wheel is a does the actual sharpening and the other is a polisher. You do (literally) 3 to 5 light passes on each side for the sharpening wheel and about 5-10 passes per side on the polishing wheel. Lots of youtube vids on this, I bought them, didn't think they'd work but I'm a believer... they work nicely and give you a hair popping edge with very little practice. Touch ups are super easy and even faster. The only cons are, it's not very portable and you have to be super attentive (no distractions) when you are working with a spinning wheel and a blade edge.

The Wicked Edge is easy and straight forward, will always give you the edge you set it for but it's expensive. It's totally idiot proof! I should know :)

Sharpmaker is the absolute easiest and will give you a good edge but it can take a long while if you are removing stock from an edge. God help you if it's a thick edge. I only use mine for touch ups.

That brings us to the Edge Pro. Mine was on a shelf for the longest time, the stones were concave, I broke the plastic trim on the guide and I never really got my edges to "Pop". I always had trouble keeping the knife flat and it (I) would always change angle slightly by not applying even pressure to hold the knife down.... which would give me an uneven profile.
I took the time, leveled all of my stones, ordered the guide plastic (3 for $1 from Edge Pro) and did the best mod I could ever do to it..... I picked up a 1/2 inch cube magnet from KJMAGNETICS $5. Holy hell, this little 1/2 inch cube has 18 lbs of pull! I put it just underneath the plastic where your knife would rest on the Edge Pro (hot glued it). Best Mod Ever! Holds the knife down very well and makes using the Edge Pro much faster, safer and much much easier. Edge Pro sells a magnet kit on their website for $25 that does the same thing.

Another mod you can use for the Edge Pro... Harbor Freight sells 3 flat (separate) diamond hone blocks (course, med, fine) for about $10. You can use these on your Edge Pro! They fit! They cut metal stock pretty quickly and are great for kitchen knives because they are 2 inches wide, they don't flex either. Super nice if you don't want to dirty up your stones with high carbon kitchen knife steel.

So to make my life easier, I sharpen almost everything at 20 deg per side. Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Paper Wheels. Then when they need a touch up, I use the 40 deg Sharpmaker setting. The trick is to get them shaving sharp with the brown stones and then hit them for a few passes on the white (fine stones).
 
If you do decide to go for bench stones you don’t need the 10inch imho, the 8inch are plenty big enough.

Never used a system myself so can’t really comment but the WE is certainly less versatile and more costly when it comes to stone choice from what I can see. That’s not to say it’s not an excellent system. The many people who own it are certainly happy with it. If I were to buy a sharpening system I’d probably go edge pro, or for one with a clamp the TS Prof
 
timelinex said:
OK, guys. I read all your replies and did more research on my end as well. I've narrowed it down to:

1. Buy 2 10" DMT stones (xtra course/ course and the fine/extra fine)

2. Bite the bullet and get the Wicked Edge we100. I really didn't want to spend this much. But I'm also a subscriber of the Buy Once Cry Once mantra. It seems like not only is it up there with the best way to sharpen knives, but it makes it fast and easy as well.

The stones are obviously the most versatile and bang for your buck. But I'm just worried about messing with angles. Am I just blowing that part out of proportion? The angle guide mentioned seems like a possible solution to this, albeit probably a bit clumsy?

Any words of wisdom between the two?
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It ain't that hard... even I can get a hair splitting edge sharpening freehand. An angle guide is useful for re-setting a bevel but you really only need that occasionally... at least for me anyway. A few light strokes on the DMTs doesn't remove much metal and that's about all you have to do to keep things keen.
 
When I think of guided systems I don’t automatically attribute them with simple.

They need set up, your knives may need clamped a certain way, you have to change stones out of clamps, find and set angles, etc.

They are, however, certainly excellent for making a nice and symmetrical bevel, and offer high consistency.

You need to make a decision on what you want.

If you plan on using your 1095 woods knife a lot, and need to sharpen often, then a freehand benchstone is going to be simplest.

I personally have even gone one step further and just carry DMT Diafold stones with one in my hand and the knife in the other.

If you are only planning on using your knife once in a while and not enough for it to go unusably dull, then the guided systems used a few times a year would work great.
 
Is there anywhere that sells the Wicked Edge systems at a discount? Having them a bit cheaper would help the decision
 
DeadboxHero said:
A sharpie marker to see where you're hitting on the bevel and a King Neo 800grit waterstone.

"Simple Rick"
Click to expand...

timelinex said:
Is there anywhere that sells the Wicked Edge systems at a discount? Having them a bit cheaper would help the decision
Click to expand...

For what you're asking, Shawn has given you about the best answer. Although, I'd substitute a Norton JB8 or diamond combo of some kind. I say that due to the camping part. You're not going to lug a WE into the wilderness. But you can pack a four or six inch or even pocket stone out there and maintain your edges while you're camping.

If your Ka-Bar is a carbon or low-carbide stainless, then I'd suggest you start with:

- Norton JB8 combination stone, $25
- Laxative-grade mineral oil (grocery store), $5
- Sharpie (red), $2
- Universal stone holder, $20 (not necessary with the Norton but recommended and will be needed for the others)
- Old belt or denim pants leg for stropping

So you're in for about fifty bucks to learn and experiment. That's versus, what, $250-300 for the most basic WE setup? And you will definitely want to get more stones and you'll always have to buy two of each. I'm not saying not to get it, but if you're thinking you should go this route because freehand is too difficult I would very much encourage you to give it more thought and give it a try.

Once you start learning how to free hand sharpen, which by the way are the exact same mechanics as a guided system that you'll have to understand, then you can start getting a couple more diamond stones for that S30V, S35VN, etc. The fundamentals will be exactly the same.

Fifty bucks, watch a couple videos, ask some questions, grab a pairing knife and discover. You don't need hair popping edges for general use and they will generally disappear rather quickly in use.

:)
 
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Don't worry too much about edge angles when freehanding. If you want to match the factory angle, use a sharpie, and go slow. I sharpen with my stones in my hand and can watch and make sure my edge is meeting the stone. It works for me.

If you want to go to a lower or higher angle, then pick and angle and get to work. Practice makes perfect! No angle guide necessary, just put your blade on the stone and raise it to where you think you want and go to town! Works for me!
 
Alright guys, thanks for all the advice. I've decided to bite the bullet and just go old school. I bought the following:
1. DMT extra course/course diamond Stone
2. DMT fine/extra fine diamond Stone
3. DMT Strone Base (was cheaper separately)
4. DMT angle guide (only $15)
5. Flexcut Strop w/ compound

Wicked Edge seemed to need atleast a $500 investment to get a decent set. My purchase was $250 (275 w/ tax) and I figure it will do effectively everything a more expensive one will do but at half the cost. (Since I don't actually require an insanely sharp edge).

Thanks for the help guys
 
timelinex said:
Alright guys, thanks for all the advice. I've decided to bite the bullet and just go old school. I bought the following:
1. DMT extra course/course diamond Stone
2. DMT fine/extra fine diamond Stone
3. DMT Strone Base (was cheaper separately)
4. DMT angle guide (only $15)
5. Flexcut Strop w/ compound

Wicked Edge seemed to need atleast a $500 investment to get a decent set. My purchase was $250 (275 w/ tax) and I figure it will do effectively everything a more expensive one will do but at half the cost. (Since I don't actually require an insanely sharp edge).

Thanks for the help guys
Click to expand...

I would really encourage getting a universal stone holder as well. It makes life way easier.

Please come back with questions, set-backs, successes, and just any update. These folks are the best. :)
 
Eli Chaps said:
I would really encourage getting a universal stone holder as well. It makes life way easier.

Please come back with questions, set-backs, successes, and just any update. These folks are the best. :)
Click to expand...
What is the difference between a universal stone holder and the dmt stone holder i got?
 
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