Kit Knife - Handle Material, Fasteners, and a Couple More Questions

[cm_bushman]

I'm not sure if this thread would be more appropriate here or in Custom maker's, but I thought here was the best place to start.

I'd like to assemble an Enzo Trapper knife, and it will be my first time assembling a knife. I've been looking at some tutorials, and it seems within the realm of possibility for me, but I had a few questions and some requests for advice.

First of all, I'm looking for a wood handle, and I'm trying to decide on exactly what type of wood to use. I like very light wood, and the traditional Curly Birch looks very good to me. I also like the Alder Root Burl I've seen in some photos. My first question is what other light-toned types of wood would you guys recommend for this project? The more figure the better! Maple is out since I've never seen a maple knife handle I've liked. I'm also interested in any "funky" or more exotic wood types. I have some Purpleheart here that's been used to great effect on some guitars, but I know it darkens with use, does anyone have some well-worn purpleheart handles on show? Dyed Box Elder Burl is also nice, and may have a chance.

Secondly, I'm interested in the flared-tube fasteners, a la Busse, and was wondering about their strength and the steps involved in applying them. If it is not very different from Corby bolts, I'd definitely go for them.

Lastly, how important are:

1.) Stabilization (how does stable and unstable wood really compare in-use when the "unstable" wood is oil-soaked/treated regularly?).
2.) Liners (How big a role do they play, what material is best, and are they even necessary for stabilized wood?).

 

[OHALLUM]

I would try to stay with a stabilized wood, or one that does not have to be stabilized. I would think that shrinkage would be the biggest problem with non stabilized wood. You don't want your handles shrinking and possibly cracking as they get dryer and older. Just my initial thoughts, as I have no experience on wooden knife scales. I did have some wood turned bowls shrink and crack on me years ago after only about 6 months out of finishing them. They had some oil based stain rubbed into them, but they warped and cracked just sitting out for display.

Blessings,

Omar

 

[Bo T]

Stabilized wood would probably be safer on the trapper. Flared tubing requires a tool to flare the tubing. From what I have read it will require some practice to get it right. Corby bolts are a much safer bet. Use 24 hour epoxy and get the correct sized brad bit or rivet bit for your Corby bolts. If you get a chance, post a picture when you are finished.

 

[cm_bushman]

I'll definitely post pictures if I'm able to actually make anything usable.

I suppose I'll go with the normal Corby Bolts then. When you say "brad bit or Rivet bit", what exactly do you mean? I was under the impression that you only needed to drill through with a bit the diameter of the shaft, then counterbore a larger shoulder the diameter of the head, unless you mean a bit that does that in one motion. This will be my first project, like I said, so please forgive my ignorance.

Also, how do you make sure the holes are properly aligned to the tang holes, or do you simply eyeball it? I was going to trace my outline from the other side of the knife, but this seems like it would lead to size differences.

I'm thinking either stabilized Curly Birch or Black Ash Burl for the handle, unless I can find some nice dyed Box Elder scales for cheap.

 

[Bo T]

I use scales that are flat on each side. I trace the outline on the scales that is facing the tang, then do a rough cut so they are close. I then tape the scales together with the tang sides together. I then shape and finish the ricasso side of the scales so they are symmetric. It is easier to do this before they are attached to the blade. Then I make sure the tang is flat and rough it up with some 120 grit sand paper on both sides. Be careful that you don't scratch the blade. Only rough the part of the tang that will be covered by the scales. I have a thick piece of plate glass that I use. Then roughen and flatten the side of the scales that will glue to the tang. Make sure you have them oriented correctly. Now, glue up one scale and making sure you have it positioned absolutely perfectly, clamp it in position. HF has some of those rachet clamps that work well. Only use enough pressure to hold the scales in position. You only need a thin coat of epoxy. Let the epoxy cure over night (@ 24 hrs depending on temperature). Using a drill press, drill your holes for the shaft, from the tang side. I just orient the holes by eye. Glue up the other scale making sure to get perfect alignment. Let the glue cure. Use your holes that were previously drilled to align the bit to drill the holes in the other scale. Countersink for the Corby heads. Place the bolts. Shape and finish the handle. If you sand some of the wood off of the scales, you can mix it with the epoxy to make the glue joint less noticeable. Clean and degrease the tang and the scale before gluing. I use isopropyl alcohol.

Take your time and you should end up with a very nice and useable knife.

 

[james terrio]

Sticky Threads - All The Good Info You Want In One Place

Lastly, how important are:
2.) Liners (How big a role do they play, what material is best, and are they even necessary for stabilized wood?).

9.9 times out of ten, liners are purely cosmetic. Use G10 or micarta; both are very durable and available in almost any color you want. The vulcanized fiber stuff absorbs moisture and can cause problems later.
If you're dealing with a messed-up tang that's not flat, you can use neoprene gasket material as a liner; when you snug up your bolts, it compresses enough to seal up any low spots.

 

[phillipsted]

Good points, James.

I agree that liner material is mostly cosmetic - and can look really nice. But they do provide one functional benefit. As you are shaping your wood scales down to the final profile, liners prevent the wood from chipping out on the tang side. This is more of a concern if you are building a teardown knife with removable scales - but the liners keep the tang side nice and tidy while you are finishing out.

And for the Corbys (or pivot bolts, etc), I tend to use a counterbore bit to drill the stepped hole. It is quite feasible to just index your drill press, clamp down your scales, and swap out bits to do the counterbore - but I found it much quicker and more accurate to use a correctly-sized counterbore bit. You can get counterbore bits from most of the bigger machine supply shops (e.g., MSC, Grainger) and drill bit houses. A couple of knife supply houses also sell stepped drill bits specifically made for this purpose, too.

Cheers!
TedP