Kitchen knife for friend and new wife

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Jan 31, 2014
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I have a friend who lives in Tokyo and has recently gotten married. I want to make them a nice versatile kitchen knife as space is at a premium when you live there. I tend to prefer knives in the 6" range when I'm doing most food , but since this needs to be a good all purpose knife, I'm thinking 7" is a good compromise. I've got some 1/8"x2" CPM S35VN that I'm thinking will work well at around 0.005" behind the edge, @ around 60-61Rc. Please let me know what you think of the sketch, and plan.

15379834656_3c7c7cb188_o.jpg
 
Nice profile, my only thinking from the sketch might be to reduce the curve the angle of the handle to better take advantage of the whole cutting edge without knicking your knuckles on the board.
 
I find the most versatile kitchen knife to be the Guyto.
Homechefs would prefer 170 - 210 length.

You can see a lot of profiles here: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/gyutos210mm.html

This sounds like it's exactly what you're recommending.

Nice profile, my only thinking from the sketch might be to reduce the curve the angle of the handle to better take advantage of the whole cutting edge without knicking your knuckles on the board.

The handle is long enough that your fingers shouldn't be all the way to the back of the handle, and even with my fairly large fingers they don't break the plane of the edge.
 
I like the profile. Looks like the hand will be well positioned to use the knife in different grips.
Enough belly for rocking, enough flat edge for small/light chopping. Looks like a winner.
 
This sounds like it's exactly what you're recommending.



The handle is long enough that your fingers shouldn't be all the way to the back of the handle, and even with my fairly large fingers they don't break the plane of the edge.

if you have already made up your mind then why ask for opinions? your blade profile looks good but the handle need to be straighter. you can keep the underside curve if you like but the centerline should be straight so the rivets line up.
 
Listen to what Mr. Burke has to say, seriously. First thing you need to do is eliminate that downward curving handle, it just doesn't make sense. Traditional japanese knife work does not employ much rock chopping so you could flatten that profile a bit more and make that profile better. I personally am not a fan of any gyuto's below 210mm, but then again my kitchen is of "average" size so go with the length that you think will work best.
 
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Listen to what Mr. Burke has to say, seriously. First thing you need to do is eliminate that downward curving handle, it just doesn't make sense. Traditional japanese knife work does not employ much rock chopping so you could flatten that profile a bit more and make that profile better. I personally am not a fan of any gyuto's below 210mm, but then again my kitchen is of "average" size so go with the length that you think will work best.

Fair enough. I'll straighten the handle out, side benefit is that I'll be able to get another good sized knife out of the stock. I am looking for and willing to take advice to make it better, I'm sorry if my response sounded like I wasn't. The only reason I didn't initially see the light was that it was about finger space between the handle and cutting plane, and it did have enough of that.

Does this look better?

15220418590_99866f382e_o.jpg
 
And perhaps something more like what's drawn as the inner blade profile in this version? It is more along the lines of the gyuto's in the link earlier.

15220583208_229985b84f_k.jpg
 
And perhaps something more like what's drawn as the inner blade profile in this version? It is more along the lines of the gyuto's in the link earlier.

15220583208_229985b84f_k.jpg

I think you're on the right track now, you just need to fine tune it a bit more. For example where the handle starts, you need to trim that area to increase knuckle clearance. Here's the profile of a Shigefusa gyuto, which happens to be one of my favorites. Notice how the handle doesn't curve down towards the edge, again there's no need for this.
f6mMjc.jpg
 
I think you're on the right track now, you just need to fine tune it a bit more. For example where the handle starts, you need to trim that area to increase knuckle clearance. Here's the profile of a Shigefusa gyuto, which happens to be one of my favorites. Notice how the handle doesn't curve down towards the edge, again there's no need for this.
f6mMjc.jpg

I think I do it unconsciously because I like it aesthetically. I'll straighten it up all the way. In addition to straightening it I also sketched out a 160mm knife to use the rest of the strip.
Thoughts?

15407621935_65fe002693_o.jpg
 
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The handle changes look good, but I liked the belly a little bit more.
I'm not a knife maker by any means, so please feel free to ignore my opinions.

The photo with the straight handle, long flat portion at the heel, and the belly at the tip (post #8) was my favorite.
 
What a superb wedding gift! I would have welcomed any such gesture for such an occasion. Back in the day, the steel might have been the lowly esteemed 440C, but I would have relished the thought that someone took the time and effort to handcraft a blade for me. I'll bet this turns out to be one heck of a custom kitchen knife.
 
There's something that doesn't quite work with the transition from the flat to the belly near the tip. I would smooth that transition out a bit more on both knives.
 
There's something that doesn't quite work with the transition from the flat to the belly near the tip. I would smooth that transition out a bit more on both knives.

The same thing was bugging me too. I think I need the slightest of curves along the straight section, and just a touch more belly. Something between the last two edge profiles, but closer to the flatter one. Time to take another stab at it(no pun intended). New picture coming soon.
 
The handle changes look good, but I liked the belly a little bit more.
I'm not a knife maker by any means, so please feel free to ignore my opinions.

The photo with the straight handle, long flat portion at the heel, and the belly at the tip (post #8) was my favorite.

I think that one is my favorite too. If I was looking for form over function I would probably have stopped there, but I really want it to be a knife that will be a joy to use, and as good looking as possible comes in second place. I'll do a custom etch for them in addition to my standard markings, and dress it up with a well shaped G10 handle, and kydex sheath to protect the blade.
 
on the picture where you redrew the blade inside the old blade drawing what you basically need to do is turn the new blade drawing upside down on. ie... draw the handle on what is now the edgeside of the blade.
 
on the picture where you redrew the blade inside the old blade drawing what you basically need to do is turn the new blade drawing upside down on. ie... draw the handle on what is now the edgeside of the blade.

So just make the edge shape the same as the spine shape then? Or literally flip one for the other?
 
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