- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,737
Haven't been able to drop by as much as I'd like lately.
Anyway, just got a couple of Japanese kitchen knives, and there has been some interest in such in the past. I purchased them at the retail location of http://www.bladegallery.com/knives/type.asp?code=qkitchen&display=Knives+for+Chefs.
As usual for me, I tried to get the best bang for the buck, and didn't want to spend "a lot".
The knives are are a laminated paring knife with "blue" carbon steel core, SS outer layers. Larger knives by these folks don't have quite the balance (at least to me) that other knives with bolsters have, but that doesn't really matter for a parer. There is a shallow stamped pattern on the outer layes on the blade--dunno if that is just cosmetic, or supposed to serve some purpose.
and a "gyoto" (Western-style, like chef's knife) with "high-carbon Swedish tool steel" core and "low carbon" SS outer layers. It has a well-done half bolster. The core of this knife may be a type of stainless steel, but it is said to be RC 62. The store had a few essentially identical knives with an English-language printed brand-name on the blade instead of engraved/stamped kangi characters, and I bought one of those since it was less expensive as they had been shipped by mistake. Would have had no reservations about getting the regular stock item though, as it seems reasonably priced compared to production European knives.
The parer will get a bit of dyed J B weld to seal the junction of handle and blade, and both knives' handles will receive a bit of shaping to knock down some corners on handle and spine. Handles are "hygenic" resin-impregnated "pakka-wood" on both. Files and sands like plastic. Relieving the corners on the spine is no problem, due the the softer outer layers. The spine of the gyoto came with slightly rounded corners on the spine.
Both knives came quite sharp (I suspect "really" sharp to many), But bevels needed some cleaning up. A little time with some waterstones followed by a strop loaded with green chromium oxide, and they are as sharp as most anything I've handled. I expect to have to set the bevel on most knives anyway (at least those that I can afford)--and it's not like these were super-expensive. I really didn't notice any big difference in sharpening because of the harder steel, it maybe took a little longer (maybe that would be more apparent with other stones or "systems")...what I did notice was how sharp they got. Nice distal taper on both, and the gyoto is thinner than a Henckel's slicing knife (it has very very slight flex). Both feel almost weightless in the hand compared to similar sized German knives I have.
Very hard and thin blades, I'll exercise care with these knives around bones, and the German Chef's knife or heavy Chinese cleaver I have will be used for stuff like winter squash or cutting/breaking bones. For most chores though, I think these two knives will probably be used for just about everything else.
Since I've only had them for a couple of days, can't comment on how long the edge keeps. What I can say is that they are amazing slicers, and when properly sharpened, the gyoto also chops and minces as well or better than a heavier European knife with less effort. Sliced up some cabbage, and was able to push-cut slices off the head as thin as I wanted with very little effort. Skins on peppers and tomatoes , well it's like they are not there--a push cut goes right through tomato skin. One push cut or draw cut will go through about any thing one would reasonably expect a thinner knife to cut.
I think either are a pretty good deal for the money, but don't expect perfect fit and finish- with a little effort, (kinda like a HI khuk) a really,really nice knife at a good price should result. I don't see how anyone could complain about the fit and finish on the gyoto with bolster for the price, and as for the parer, it's really no big deal to fill the bit of open tang-slot in the handle with epoxy. Can't compare performance to other Japanese kitchen knives, since these are the first I've used.
When I get an idea of how long the edges last, I'll update. I suspect that the Henckels would already exhibit some dulling or edge rolling just from contact with the cutting board if they were sharpened like the harder Janapese blades. The edges of the Japanese knives penetrate and and catch in the cutting board if one uses them with the same force as one is used to with the thicker, softer German cutlery. Great big "X-acto" knife comes to mind.
I'm quite pleased so far, and don't expect that to change. Now I just have to try not to cut myself with the things....
Anyway, just got a couple of Japanese kitchen knives, and there has been some interest in such in the past. I purchased them at the retail location of http://www.bladegallery.com/knives/type.asp?code=qkitchen&display=Knives+for+Chefs.
As usual for me, I tried to get the best bang for the buck, and didn't want to spend "a lot".
The knives are are a laminated paring knife with "blue" carbon steel core, SS outer layers. Larger knives by these folks don't have quite the balance (at least to me) that other knives with bolsters have, but that doesn't really matter for a parer. There is a shallow stamped pattern on the outer layes on the blade--dunno if that is just cosmetic, or supposed to serve some purpose.
and a "gyoto" (Western-style, like chef's knife) with "high-carbon Swedish tool steel" core and "low carbon" SS outer layers. It has a well-done half bolster. The core of this knife may be a type of stainless steel, but it is said to be RC 62. The store had a few essentially identical knives with an English-language printed brand-name on the blade instead of engraved/stamped kangi characters, and I bought one of those since it was less expensive as they had been shipped by mistake. Would have had no reservations about getting the regular stock item though, as it seems reasonably priced compared to production European knives.
The parer will get a bit of dyed J B weld to seal the junction of handle and blade, and both knives' handles will receive a bit of shaping to knock down some corners on handle and spine. Handles are "hygenic" resin-impregnated "pakka-wood" on both. Files and sands like plastic. Relieving the corners on the spine is no problem, due the the softer outer layers. The spine of the gyoto came with slightly rounded corners on the spine.
Both knives came quite sharp (I suspect "really" sharp to many), But bevels needed some cleaning up. A little time with some waterstones followed by a strop loaded with green chromium oxide, and they are as sharp as most anything I've handled. I expect to have to set the bevel on most knives anyway (at least those that I can afford)--and it's not like these were super-expensive. I really didn't notice any big difference in sharpening because of the harder steel, it maybe took a little longer (maybe that would be more apparent with other stones or "systems")...what I did notice was how sharp they got. Nice distal taper on both, and the gyoto is thinner than a Henckel's slicing knife (it has very very slight flex). Both feel almost weightless in the hand compared to similar sized German knives I have.
Very hard and thin blades, I'll exercise care with these knives around bones, and the German Chef's knife or heavy Chinese cleaver I have will be used for stuff like winter squash or cutting/breaking bones. For most chores though, I think these two knives will probably be used for just about everything else.
Since I've only had them for a couple of days, can't comment on how long the edge keeps. What I can say is that they are amazing slicers, and when properly sharpened, the gyoto also chops and minces as well or better than a heavier European knife with less effort. Sliced up some cabbage, and was able to push-cut slices off the head as thin as I wanted with very little effort. Skins on peppers and tomatoes , well it's like they are not there--a push cut goes right through tomato skin. One push cut or draw cut will go through about any thing one would reasonably expect a thinner knife to cut.
I think either are a pretty good deal for the money, but don't expect perfect fit and finish- with a little effort, (kinda like a HI khuk) a really,really nice knife at a good price should result. I don't see how anyone could complain about the fit and finish on the gyoto with bolster for the price, and as for the parer, it's really no big deal to fill the bit of open tang-slot in the handle with epoxy. Can't compare performance to other Japanese kitchen knives, since these are the first I've used.
When I get an idea of how long the edges last, I'll update. I suspect that the Henckels would already exhibit some dulling or edge rolling just from contact with the cutting board if they were sharpened like the harder Janapese blades. The edges of the Japanese knives penetrate and and catch in the cutting board if one uses them with the same force as one is used to with the thicker, softer German cutlery. Great big "X-acto" knife comes to mind.
I'm quite pleased so far, and don't expect that to change. Now I just have to try not to cut myself with the things....
