Kitchen Touch-up Rods

S

stitchawl

Joined
Jul 26, 2008
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I've been deliberately obtuse in naming these kitchen tools, as there is so much controversy around that issue. Honing rods, sharpening steels, Butcher's steels, etc., etc., etc. depending on who is saying it, how much it costs, and how it is constructed. Grooved with large or small grooves, smooth, coated with grit... there are so many to choose from. Amazon sells them for between $20-$80. Many famous brands... all claiming to be best.

What is your preference?

I switched to smooth Borosillicate glass 25 years ago, and never looked back. I went to a chemical supply company and had them make one for me. Borosillicate glass is cheaper than the glass used for drinking glasses. It's the stuff used for baking dishes, measuring cups, and laboratory test tubes and glassware. You probably know it as "Pyrex," and your wife or mother has a load of it under the sink. I started using it in the form of a glass meatloaf pan, refining the edge of my kitchen knives on the edge of the pan. I got tired of that, went to the supply company, and for under $5 had them cut me a rod about 1/2 inch thick by 16 inches. (Today that would probably cost $10.) I've been using that ever since. About 25 years ago, HandAmerican tried selling Borosillicate rods, but for about $70... plain rods in a fancy wooden handle. That's when I went and had my own one made for me. It's not fancy... I just wrapped my own handle on it... but it works beautifully, keeping my kitchen knives in tip-top condition. A few strokes between every 15-20 cuts, and my knives stay razor sharp.

What is your preference in the kitchen?


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
Borosillicate glass is cheaper than the glass used for drinking glasses.
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Hi,
Its the other way around, borosilicate glass is more expensive than soda-lime glass (11% more SiO2, higher melt temperature...).

stitchawl said:
What is your preference in the kitchen?
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Still developing a preference :)
I mostly dont do anything until its time to hit the stone, which is when edge is beat up and reflective, or struggles on bread

Occasionally i'll use a tungsten carbide pull through or bottom of a coffee mug

I did save a few tile scraps from a remodel including two 1/2inch x 12inch sticks :)
lots of potential in that approach if your tile guy is decent,
I seem to prefer flats to rounds
 
I’ve been using a grooved ceramic rod lately. It’s ok, started to get much better results when I switched from holding it vertically like a butchers steel to holding it horizontally. When it’s horizontal I can treat it like a bench stone and the consistent angles come much easier.

I ordered some of the very inexpensive rods from Baryonx to try out as well.
 
I use the half-grooved steel rod that came with my knife block. Does fine with softer steels. Also good for a quick refresh of a pocket knife blade if I don't feel like getting out a stone.
 
When I do use a rod-type hone on my kitchen knives, it's often a smooth (polished) steel. All of my kitchen knives are in simpler stainless, nothing very hard. They respond well or even excellently to the smooth steel.

I do sometimes use something like a medium brown/grey ceramic rod on the same knives. If I've been 'steeling' them for some time (several weeks) on the smooth rod, the edge eventually gets overly work-hardened and becomes weak. So, at that point, a medium ceramic usually does a nice job working that weakened steel off the edge and putting the bite back into it. If it's a little further-gone than that, I'll sometimes take it back to a Fine India stone to completely reset the edge, then follow again with the medium ceramic. After that, it's back to the smooth steel for regular upkeep over a few more weeks' time.
 
I use a coffeecup or bowl rim mostly, the glazed upper rim that is. If it needs more I'll use the unglazed underside first or take it to a stone.

My better Chef's knife I'll strop on one of my Washboards with diamond and SiC compound - it doesn't take to steeling very well compared to my lower RC kitchen knives.

S stitchawl I've been considering getting a borosilicate rod for a few years since you first mentioned using one to good effect even on higher RC steel. I've had hit or miss luck on my Pyrex backing dish, but most of that is catching the angle correctly and the dish is not conducive to good repeatability for me.

The rods are not expensive at all from a laboratory supply shop and can be had in a variety of diameters and lengths.
 
I use the ceramic rod that came with my Edge Pro.
Has a rubbery sheath and a black rubber bootie on one end.
Fits perfect in my knife block. Easy to use.
 
I have used the same set of crock sticks for 30 years I would guess. Even after a full sharpening on my TSPROF. I always give every knife a gentle swipe on the sticks.
 
how does borosilicate glass compare to ceramic? Is it "higher grit" than something like a spyderco Fine or Ultra Fine?
 
I tend to use a smooth steel rod with strokes done as edge trailing. On my softer knives this is very effective. On the high hardness stuff, I use a 2000 grit ceramic rod and a few passes on the Spyderco Ultra fine rods for touch up. If that doesn't get me where I want to be, I break out the bench stones.
 
I used to use ceramic rods, but I have found spyderco triangle to be extremely comfortable for touch-ups. My wife uses it too.
 
HeavyHanded said:
S stitchawl I've been considering getting a borosilicate rod for a few years since you first mentioned using one to good effect even on higher RC steel. I've had hit or miss luck on my Pyrex backing dish, but most of that is catching the angle correctly and the dish is not conducive to good repeatability for me.
The rods are not expensive at all from a laboratory supply shop and can be had in a variety of diameters and lengths.
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When compared with other sharpening tools, these rods cost virtually nothing... I'd recommend making a secure handle for your rod, and even adding a rubber top end cap to it. You do need to treat them like the glass that they are. However, borosillicate glass tends to be tougher than soda-lime glass, so even though I tend to be rather clumsy, mine has survived the test of time. If I had to buy one today, I'd go for 3/4 inch in diameter, and 16 inches long.

CasePeanut said:
how does borosilicate glass compare to ceramic? Is it "higher grit" than something like a spyderco Fine or Ultra Fine?
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It is NOT a 'grit-oriented' device.' It removes no metal at all, the way that ceramics do. It functions more as a 'burnishing' tool, pressing and compressing the metal, realigning and compacting the edge. In theory, it shouldn't produce an edge different from a perfectly smooth steel... but in fact, it does. At least anecdotally. Now, maybe it's just snob-appeal that makes me think this way, but I have both the glass rod and an absolutely smooth steel sitting side by side on the kitchen counter, and even my wife (who is not a knife snob like me) prefers the edge she gets with the glass rod. She's Japanese, and cuts all our sushi and sashimi with her Yanagiba that we bought in Seki City.



Stitchawl
 
Like many others, I prefer a round ceramic rod. Not really a fan of the "steels". Takes about 5 light swipes per side to bring a non shaving sharp edge back to hair splitting. I use it on hard steels in the ~62-64HRC range like AEBL, CPM M4, O7. Love it.
 
stitchawl said:
It is NOT a 'grit-oriented' device.' It removes no metal at all, the way that ceramics do. It functions more as a 'burnishing' tool, pressing and compressing the metal, realigning and compacting the edge. In theory, it shouldn't produce an edge different from a perfectly smooth steel... but in fact, it does. At least anecdotally. Now, maybe it's just snob-appeal that makes me think this way, but I have both the glass rod and an absolutely smooth steel sitting side by side on the kitchen counter, and even my wife (who is not a knife snob like me) prefers the edge she gets with the glass rod. She's Japanese, and cuts all our sushi and sashimi with her Yanagiba that we bought in Seki City.
Stitchawl
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It may not be your imagination... take a look at this...

https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/

... it doesn't address Borosillicate, but does seem to indicate that other steels actually remove metal (and not just "realign" the edge, if I read it right). So, maybe the Borosillicate does something different? Be interesting to see it at the level in the article.
 
Any thoughts on grooved vs. smooth rods? I've been using a grooved ceramic in the kitchen and I believe I am getting better results than with a smooth rod. Wish a flat "rod" was easier to find. Probably my poor technique, but the curved surface of the rod feels harder to work with than a flat stone.
 
CasePeanut said:
Any thoughts on grooved vs. smooth rods? I've been using a grooved ceramic in the kitchen and I believe I am getting better results than with a smooth rod. Wish a flat "rod" was easier to find. Probably my poor technique, but the curved surface of the rod feels harder to work with than a flat stone.
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Technique-wise, I feel it's all about featherlight pressure and not allowing the held angle to get steeper than the edge angle. The narrow contact area between the rod & knife edge really focuses pressure, so the applied pressure must be extra-light, as compared to using a flat stone or even an oval rod. And if the held angle gets too high (obtuse), that also focuses pressure because the microscopically-narrow apex is the only contact, rather than the broader 'cheeks' of the edge itself, where it transitions into the bevels.

The way I do it, when using either one (grooved or smooth steel), is to lay the blade against the rod low enough that I KNOW the apex isn't yet contacting. I hold the handle of the knife between the heel pad of my hand and the pads of my ring & pinkie fingertips (impairs gripping the handle too tightly, but still maintains steady control). Then I begin the pass edge-leading, on the rod, as if just gently skimming the two against one another, and very subtly raise the spine of the blade as I do so. This is where it's important to pay attention to the feedback felt via your finger pads, and also listen to the sound change as the increasing angle moves the contact from the bevels (quieter, slicker) to just starting to graze at the cheeks of the apex (sound becomes crisper & 'ringier', and the feel becomes more 'biting'). As you detect that 'biting' sensation, it's important to STOP raising the spine. Finish the pass down the length of the rod, using the same light, light pressure.

I swap the knife & rod between hands, when alternating sides of the blade, and mirror the above from the other side. It's up to you if you wish to do it that way, or just flip the knife around in the same hand and make the opposite-side pass coming from the other direction.

Really, the only consideration I have in using a grooved vs a smooth rod, is how much 'bite' you wish to put into the edge. The grooved rod will remove more metal (behaves more like a file) and leave the edge toothier. A smooth rod removes less metal and leaves the edge more burnished or polished (depending on how 'smooth' it is). If edge realignment is the goal, mainly, then use the smooth rod. Technique-wise, there's absolutely no difference between them, as I use them. Heavy pressure on either one, or the angle too high, will kill the edge one way or another (rolled, rippled or wavy, rounded, or very heavily-burred & ragged).
 
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I use a Idahone ceramic hone the 1200 grit model ... or the Chef Knifes To Go black Ceramic hone its a slightly finer grit ... both work great on kitchen knives.

Idahone makes a coatser ceramic hone if you prefer that also.
 
cbwx34 said:
It may not be your imagination... take a look at this...

https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/

... it doesn't address Borosillicate, but does seem to indicate that other steels actually remove metal (and not just "realign" the edge, if I read it right). So, maybe the Borosillicate does something different? Be interesting to see it at the level in the article.
Click to expand...

This was a great presentation! Thanks for posting it. It certainly changed a lot of my preconceptions.
I, too, would love to see Borosillicate glass added to the report.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
When compared with other sharpening tools, these rods cost virtually nothing... I'd recommend making a secure handle for your rod, and even adding a rubber top end cap to it. You do need to treat them like the glass that they are. However, borosillicate glass tends to be tougher than soda-lime glass, so even though I tend to be rather clumsy, mine has survived the test of time. If I had to buy one today, I'd go for 3/4 inch in diameter, and 16 inches long.
Click to expand...
Hi,
How many dollars is that?


stitchawl said:
This was a great presentation! Thanks for posting it. It certainly changed a lot of my preconceptions.
I, too, would love to see Borosillicate glass added to the report.
Click to expand...
You might find this interesting :) US20170274500A1 - Abrasive Blasted Textured Borosilicate Glass Cutting Edge Sharpener and Honing Device
 
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