Kizer screws

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Messages
199
Hi everyone. I have 2 Kizers and haven't had any problems with soft screws. I heard about the issues a while back. I want to buy another one so was just wondering if they fixed the issue with the screws lately. Thanks for any info!
 
I haven't had any issues with soft screws from Kizer or their budget Tangram line. Only screws I've had any issues with are the old style pivots with the weird spoke design. Those deform a little easily when you use a Flathead, but they weren't really designed to be used like that.
 
Ok
I haven't had any issues with soft screws from Kizer or their budget Tangram line. Only screws I've had any issues with are the old style pivots with the weird spoke design. Those deform a little easily when you use a Flathead, but they weren't really designed to be used like that.
Okay cool. I have the Nomad and Escort with torx construction so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks!
 
Ok

Okay cool. I have the Nomad and Escort with torx construction so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks!
Keep in mind I only use good drivers. Cheaper or misshapen drivers could damage the screws much more easily.
 
Keep in mind I only use good drivers. Cheaper or misshapen drivers could damage the screws much more easily.
I found out the hard way to get good drivers. Especially the smaller ones. I stripped a pocket clip screw on a zt 0452cf and a stop pin screw on a para 2. The para 2 problem was also because of too much loctite.
 
Pretty sure they haven't updated there screws. Just be careful and use good torx. Use heat if they have locktite. The one I have doesn't have any locktite so I don't have any issues. And I'm using good wiha bits.
 
There is nothing worse than having a nice knife with inferior hardware. It's one of my pet peeves.
I've never had to take any of my Kizer knives apart , so I can't comment on their quality. But with any knife I want to dissemble, I put a drop of Rem Oil on all the screw heads and let in soak in. The cleaning agent in Rem Oil seems to dissolve locktite and the screws generally come out easily. (and of course get a good torx set)
 
Of the ~10 Kizers I've owned, the biggest inconsistency with the hardware was that some were strongly loctited and others had no loctite at all. Haven't had any issues with the hardware except with the Rattler, whose pivot was locked so tightly it made the pivot screw strip out easily even with Wiha bits.
 
Thanks for all the info. It kind of sucks that you hit or miss on screw quality. They have some really nice designs but maybe I'll just spend some extra for Reate and wait on Kizer and hopefully they address this issue. A stripped screw is a big deal for me because I live in South Africa so it's not so easy to just send it in to get fixed.
 
Of the ~10 Kizers I've owned, the biggest inconsistency with the hardware was that some were strongly loctited and others had no loctite at all. Haven't had any issues with the hardware except with the Rattler, whose pivot was locked so tightly it made the pivot screw strip out easily even with Wiha bits.
That's not the knives fault though. If you can't easily remove a screw set the screw driver down. Don't try and remove it. Use some heat to defeat the locktite. Some folks use a soldering iron, others hair drier or heat gun and some will boil it in water.

Screws should come out easy. If they don't... Don't try and make them come out by brut force. That's why people strip screws.
 
That's not the knives fault though. If you can't easily remove a screw set the screw driver down. Don't try and remove it. Use some heat to defeat the locktite. Some folks use a soldering iron, others hair drier or heat gun and some will boil it in water.

Screws should come out easy. If they don't... Don't try and make them come out by brut force. That's why people strip screws.
I used the soldering iron on my pm 2 stop pin screw that I put way too much loctite on and it worked great
 
That's not the knives fault though. If you can't easily remove a screw set the screw driver down. Don't try and remove it. Use some heat to defeat the locktite. Some folks use a soldering iron, others hair drier or heat gun and some will boil it in water.

Screws should come out easy. If they don't... Don't try and make them come out by brut force. That's why people strip screws.

This was after using a soldering iron applied to the pivot screw to heat it up. Whatever threadlocker they used apparently didn't loosen from that heat applied to it. However, I've gotten other Kizer knives without a trace of threadlocker on the pivot ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo2
This was after using a soldering iron applied to the pivot screw to heat it up. Whatever threadlocker they used apparently didn't loosen from that heat applied to it. However, I've gotten other Kizer knives without a trace of threadlocker on the pivot ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Interesting. I've noticed soldering iron doesn't always work all the time...

Could have been cross threaded or the threads tapped in correctly. In that case it would most certainly strip out.
 
Of the ~10 Kizers I've owned, the biggest inconsistency with the hardware was that some were strongly loctited and others had no loctite at all. Haven't had any issues with the hardware except with the Rattler, whose pivot was locked so tightly it made the pivot screw strip out easily even with Wiha bits.
Holy cow!
 
Thanks for all the info. It kind of sucks that you hit or miss on screw quality. They have some really nice designs but maybe I'll just spend some extra for Reate and wait on Kizer and hopefully they address this issue. A stripped screw is a big deal for me because I live in South Africa so it's not so easy to just send it in to get fixed.
They all told you there is no issue except when you try to force it with the wrong driver
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top