KME Arkansas Stones?

ncrockclimb

ncrockclimb

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I have been enjoying my KME a lot over the last month. The diamond stones work great and I am getting some good results. I have seen that they offer Arkansas stones and I am wondering how well they work? Has anyone tried them? Can you use the coarse diamonds then finish with the Arkansas stones?

Please feel free to share any info you have about or your experience with Arkansas stones and the KME.
 
no expert here, just got mine and love it, was watching the guy on youtube, he goes from the 1500 diamond to the translucent Arkansas stone then strops with the kangaroo strop , but i think you would need a angle cube, i believe the arkansas stone is thicker, i plan on ordering one
 
The stones are thicker than the plates...the only reason that matters is it changes the angle. Not a huge deal, but something of which to be aware.
 
ncrockclimb said:
I have been enjoying my KME a lot over the last month. The diamond stones work great and I am getting some good results. I have seen that they offer Arkansas stones and I am wondering how well they work? Has anyone tried them? Can you use the coarse diamonds then finish with the Arkansas stones?

Please feel free to share any info you have about or your experience with Arkansas stones and the KME.
Click to expand...

Not specific to KME (I don't have one), but generally speaking, if the steels you're sharpening are simple carbon or low-alloy stainless like 1095, CV, 420HC, 440A, then you shouldn't have any issues finishing with the Arkansas stones, assuming they're of decent quality. The diamond hones can be used on anything (steelwise) for setting bevels and/or finishing (by preference); but it doesn't matter much if you want to follow those with the Arkansas stones, IF the steel responds to it and you like what it does for the finish. If you're sharpening more wear-resistant steels like S30V, D2 or maybe even 154CM, VG-10, 440C, you may find the Arkansas stones to be very slow at least, and possibly ineffective at the worst. For example, on S30V or D2, they likely wouldn't help much, and the hard carbides in the steel will induce a lot more wear (glazing) on the stones themselves; that could eventually render them ineffective on any steel.


David
 
The KME ceramic and Arkansas stones all vary in thickness so they are a bit of a pain to use.
The diamond stones and glass blanks with lapping film do not suffer from this problem. I think this is the reason why they now offer the diamond system as standard.

When using the KME with my traditional folders, I often finish with the black Arkansas which gives a more polished finish than the 1500 diamond.

These are the measurements of my KME stones. I have made paper shims to compensate for the differences which I find more convenient than having to adjust the guide each time.

Hard Arkansas translucent 6.91 mm
Hard Arkansas black 6.66 mm
White fine aluminum oxide 6.55 mm
Pink medium aluminum oxide 6.21 mm
Brown coarse aluminum oxide 5.70 mm
Black silicone carbide 5.54 mm
Kangaroo strop 5.55 mm
Gold series Diamond 4.81 mm

Frans
 
fvdk said:
The KME ceramic and Arkansas stones all vary in thickness so they are a bit of a pain to use.
The diamond stones and glass blanks with lapping film do not suffer from this problem. I think this is the reason why they now offer the diamond system as standard.

When using the KME with my traditional folders, I often finish with the black Arkansas which gives a more polished finish than the 1500 diamond.

These are the measurements of my KME stones. I have made paper shims to compensate for the differences which I find more convenient than having to adjust the guide each time.

Hard Arkansas translucent 6.91 mm
Hard Arkansas black 6.66 mm
White fine aluminum oxide 6.55 mm
Pink medium aluminum oxide 6.21 mm
Brown coarse aluminum oxide 5.70 mm
Black silicone carbide 5.54 mm
Kangaroo strop 5.55 mm
Gold series Diamond 4.81 mm

Frans
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I don't want to come off as dismissive, because that is not my intent. However, are the differences that you are talking about really significant? I would guess that the movement of the rod in the guide and the inevitable "wiggle" of the knife in the clamps would be more significant than the differences in the thickness of the hones. Then again, maybe the fact that I think this was is part of the reason I am not able to split hairs with my edges.
 
The stone thickness is definitely significant. If you don't compensate for stone thickness then you are completely defeating the purpose of using a guided sharpening system. As for the Arkansas stones I wouldn't buy them unless you are strictly sharpening simple carbon steels like 1095/5160 or low wear resistant stainless steel like 12c27/420hc.
 
ncrockclimb said:
I don't want to come off as dismissive, because that is not my intent. However, are the differences that you are talking about really significant? I would guess that the movement of the rod in the guide and the inevitable "wiggle" of the knife in the clamps would be more significant than the differences in the thickness of the hones. Then again, maybe the fact that I think this was is part of the reason I am not able to split hairs with my edges.
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Yes, the differences are significant if not compensated for. Here are two photos, the first one with a KME diamond stone and the second one with the translucent Arkansas.

24026536109_876884cf24_c.jpg


23767555093_636c622c41_c.jpg


As you can see, the difference is more than 1 degree per side between the two stones.
So without compensating, you would keep re-profiling the edge or you would never reach the apex.

I would guess that the movement of the rod in the guide and the inevitable "wiggle" of the knife in the clamps would be more significant
Click to expand...

There is no play in the rod and most knives can be clamped without any wiggle. Sometimes with the help of some tape or shammy leather.

No systems is perfectly suitable for every kind of knife and if the knife can not be clamped securely and in the exact position each time, than that system is not suitable for that type of knife and there is no point in using it. For example, I use my Wicked Edge mostly for my larger knives while I use the Lansky for my Victorinox folders.

Frans
 
fvdk said:
Yes, the differences are significant if not compensated for. Here are two photos, the first one with a KME diamond stone and the second one with the translucent Arkansas...
Click to expand...

Wow. Today I learned something.

Thank you very much for posting the pics. I would never have imagined that the small difference in thickness could have such a large impact on the sharpening angle. Looks like I will stick with my diamond hones and strop by hand.

Again, thank you for posting!
 
ncrockclimb said:
Wow. Today I learned something.

Thank you very much for posting the pics. I would never have imagined that the small difference in thickness could have such a large impact on the sharpening angle. Looks like I will stick with my diamond hones and strop by hand.

Again, thank you for posting!
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You're welcome, glad I could help. :thumbup:

Frans
 
Here is my take since I aint splitting atoms, the 1-2 degrees really makes no difference.. I start of with the DMT diamond stones, then to the white Arkansas stone, then black.. Finish with stropping sometines.. Skip the Arkansas stones on some if I don't want a polished edge!! JMO!!! John
 
If you use the Arkansas after the diamonds and do not compensate for the difference than there is no point in using them.
The stones than do not reach the apex so you are just polishing the bevel, it is as simple as that.

If you would be using thicker stones first, followed by thinner stones, than at least you would create a micro bevel.

But hey, if you are happy with it than who am I to comment :)

Frans
 
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