KME Diamond and ceramic

J

Joseph Durham

Joined
Dec 16, 2018
Messages
15
Ok, I’ve been using the KME system for close to 2 years now and have stuck with only using the diamond stones, and then the strop with 4 micron emulsion. I bought the system when I was new to the whole idea of sharpening and didn’t understand it hardly at all. Now, I can do a great job on all of my Case knives without a hickup, I’m very proud of my blades and the care I take on them.

Here in lies my question, if I am only using the diamond stones, when/ should I ever use the ceramic stones? Could using one of the ceramic stones benefit my sharpening? I think of sharpening with the grits like sandpaper, but I know that just because a diamond stone is 300 and a ceramic is 360 it doesn’t mean that one of them isn’t necessarily harder then the other.

Just looking for advice and some knowledge here.

Thank you for your time!

Joseph
 
I have the exact same setup that you do. I just added the Arkansas translucent stone to it. I have not gotten a chance to use it yet but it is supposed to be great. I have heard just the diamonds and that stone is all you need. Then the strop would be the icing on the cake.
 
diamond is harder than ceramic.
if all your doing is Case knives, either will work - there really is no reason to use one over the other except for personal preference.

I prefer diamond most of the time, it just seems easier and faster to run it with a very light touch. the ceramics tend to take a little longer (unless I'm just doing a touchup)

if you already have the ceramics, give them a shot on the next one you do. you may like it.
on some of my Old Timers, I stick with the ceramics, I like the edge better - but that could just be in my head
 
When I bought my KME, it only came with the ceramics and Arkansas stones. It was probably a couple years I guess before I bought the diamonds.

The either/or of which type to use is probably going to be pretty subjective and dependent on the edge condition, steel, etc. In general, diamonds are prone to removing more material (just have to control the work) and leaving deeper or more scratches. For high-grit touch ups I don't think it would be too much of an issue. The ceramics load up rather quickly and are messier but they are also a lot cheaper if you want to keep wear down on the diamonds. I don't use my KME much any more but once I got the diamonds, I rarely used the ceramics.

Depending on the steel, the translucent Arkansas can give a very nice polish to the edge.
 
So, like I figured, turns out to be more preference.
I generally use the diamonds and follow up with the Arkansas, and then the strop with 4 micron emulsion.

Yes, the only thing I use it for are my Case knives. I can get one wicked edge on them.
 
Disclaimer: I don't have a KME (yet) but FWIW I recall a poster on another sharpening thread said he liked a ceramic over diamond rod in special cases when he needed to push harder to get the right edge. I don't recall the specifics but it was related to steel type I think. He liked the ceramic rod because diamonds don't stand up to that.
 
Generally you would use the diamond stones with super steels with 4% or more Vanadium in them. Or harder steel above say 61hrc
They can also be useful for re profiling. Ceramic is not as hard as Vanadium.

For all other steels ceramics work great. Arkansas stones are also fine for these too.
 
I switched to diamond.. Was getting scratches from the ceramic stones coming apart.. Called KME about this and they did nothing.. Bought the diamond stones and problem solved.. In spite of no help or support from KME I do still like/use/recommend the KME system..:D
John
 
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