KME sharpening system

Snake62

Snake62

Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Messages
208
Hey everybody,

I am about to place an order for a KME and i'd like to know what would be a good start for the diamond stones? I have some benchmades, Spydercos and CRK's. I already own a Sharpmaker with all the rods and a Worksharp guided sharpening system with the upgrade kit. I want my knives razor sharp. Thanks for your inputs!

A french Canadian guy;)
 
the system I got came with 140, 300, 600, and 1500 grit, I also got the translucent and a kangaroo strop with the .5 diamond spray, with that setup, you can get a knife to whittle hair no problem, if you want a mirror edge, you'll be looking to get lapping films or strops with the emulsions but it all depends on what your looking for.
 
T
tonymp said:
the system I got came with 140, 300, 600, and 1500 grit, I also got the translucent and a kangaroo strop with the .5 diamond spray, with that setup, you can get a knife to whittle hair no problem, if you want a mirror edge, you'll be looking to get lapping films or strops with the emulsions but it all depends on what your looking for.
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Thank you very much!
 
Did you decide on what your gonna order? I also have a sharpmaker and one way I use the two of them together is setting my bevel at around 15 to 17 degrees and then micro bevel at 20 with the sharpmaker, I've gotten some screaming sharp edges with that setup, with ultra fine rods it takes it to the next level, my work knives, I usually stop at the 1500 grit diamond and a little stropping which gives a great working edge.
 
tonymp said:
Did you decide on what your gonna order? I also have a sharpmaker and one way I use the two of them together is setting my bevel at around 15 to 17 degrees and then micro bevel at 20 with the sharpmaker, I've gotten some screaming sharp edges with that setup, with ultra fine rods it takes it to the next level, my work knives, I usually stop at the 1500 grit diamond and a little stropping which gives a great working edge.
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Thanks for your suggestion! I haven't placed my order yet.
 
I suggest seeing how sharp you can get your knives using the kit by technique first. With aftermarket KME stone holders from Gritomatic and 3D printed KME Holder by (Jester002100 on tubes), and Congress Silicon Caride, SIC moldmaster, and Idahone stones for your Sharpmaker, stone choices are very broad now. I know others love the films, but I'm old school and think stones are a better choice down to 1 to 3 micron, our lower limit. My lower limit is going up for setting edges, nowadays never above 1500 KME diamond ~13micron, their 600 30 micron for D2.- using KME's customer support suggested web resource-
https://www.bestsharpeningstones.com/article_details.php?id=1&article_name=Micron to Grit Conversion Calculator
 
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As I wrote above response, I thought to myself, "I should try D2 off KME's 300 57µ diamond next", because I read BF...;)
You will need the KME stone thickness compensator, or careful use of a sharpie.
Also, the Spyderco / Idahone rods fit the 3d stone holder, and Gritomatic reports the same, but I have not tried mine yet.
Finally, your question prompts me to print up some Wickedge "advanced alignment guide" like foils for a higher degree of repeatability when re-attaching each knife.
 
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Just get the standard kit and learn how to use it and how you feel about the edges with different steels at different grits for different tasks. That will steer you to what you want to do. High polished edges are not the end all be all.

Anymore, when I use the KME I rarely go above the 600 and often stop on the 300.
 
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