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KME Users: Please Help
- Thread starter The Burgh
- Start date
The Burgh
Basic Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2015
- Messages
- 501
Thanks, that solved half of my vexation.
Now, any clamping solutons for the curvature from the straight on up to the tip?
I try to clamp that curve so that it half-moons equidistantly in front of the clamp, but usually the blade is unevenly loddged in the back of the clamp (causing uneven pressure on the blade and movement) or a lack of clearance over the clamp with the stone (causing abrassion on the clamp instead of the edge of the blade curve).
Again, thanks to all.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2014
- Messages
- 3,646
One of my pet peeves are a blade that has a very uneven bevel (side to side, or back to tip) or a grind that seems to double the bevel height right at the tip. Bugs me to death. That may have been one of the driving forces behind me going crazy ocd in the early stages of my sharpening learning curve. I'm still quite novice, but have a lot of very pretty edges. 
Personally, I try not to clamp the blade any deeper than the second line. There are odd blade shapes that may force me to alter that guideline. But most blades end up getting better clamp purchase in that area.
As to the tip, I clamp the blade as close to center as possible, and usually at an angle to compensate for the belly and tip. I'll clamp, then put in the rod and compare a specific spot on the rod to all sections of the blade. If it needs to be tweaked, it's much easier now, than after I've been grinding metal. If the random chosen spot on the rod lands close to that spot on both the hilt and tip ends of edge, then I'm more likely to get a nice even bevel (with a slight amount of averaging on the part of the edge that varies most....like belly or tip). Once I have the blade clamped and adjusted, I never want to move or readjust. If I'm doing a knife so big that it needs multiple positions to sharpen, I'll pull out the edge pro that does not have the capability to clamp in the blade.
But if I'm only concentrating on the bevel along the relatively straight part of the blade, I may end up with a funky bevel around the belly or tip. If I'm able to average the actual clamp position with both the blade length (centering) and the angle from perpendicular (to compensate for belly or curve to tip), I can end up with a pretty even bevel.
Not sure if I'm describing myself very well. It's always easier to show in person. As someone said above, search for and watch all the YouTube vids you can find. Some have been very helpful to me.
My first couple of blades I just clamped in dead center on the blade. And ended up with some really odd bevels at the tip. Also realized early on that the angle measurements on the machine is a guide only. Every blade is different (thickness, plunge angle, distance from edge, etc) , thus changing the actual end result angle.
If you want a very specific angle, the only way to know for sure is to clamp up, mount stone, and then adjust to desired angle (with angle cube, or phone angle/level app). But I think you get the most life out of a knife by removing as little metal as possible. Therefore use the "sharpie trick" to simply adjust angle as close to original grind as possible. Then proceed through the sharpening process. The stickies in the sharpening section contains years worth of good info. Well worth the time to read as many of them as possible.
Add: also, take the time to tape up the blade and any delicate handle material. I learned the hard way that you are dealing with abrasives, and the only part of the blade I want scratched is the edge. It's not hard to take a relatively new blade, and make it look like it's got a years worth of use because of blade facial scratches. Five minutes of prep with blue painters tape is well worth the time.
Personally, I try not to clamp the blade any deeper than the second line. There are odd blade shapes that may force me to alter that guideline. But most blades end up getting better clamp purchase in that area.
As to the tip, I clamp the blade as close to center as possible, and usually at an angle to compensate for the belly and tip. I'll clamp, then put in the rod and compare a specific spot on the rod to all sections of the blade. If it needs to be tweaked, it's much easier now, than after I've been grinding metal. If the random chosen spot on the rod lands close to that spot on both the hilt and tip ends of edge, then I'm more likely to get a nice even bevel (with a slight amount of averaging on the part of the edge that varies most....like belly or tip). Once I have the blade clamped and adjusted, I never want to move or readjust. If I'm doing a knife so big that it needs multiple positions to sharpen, I'll pull out the edge pro that does not have the capability to clamp in the blade.
But if I'm only concentrating on the bevel along the relatively straight part of the blade, I may end up with a funky bevel around the belly or tip. If I'm able to average the actual clamp position with both the blade length (centering) and the angle from perpendicular (to compensate for belly or curve to tip), I can end up with a pretty even bevel.
Not sure if I'm describing myself very well. It's always easier to show in person. As someone said above, search for and watch all the YouTube vids you can find. Some have been very helpful to me.
My first couple of blades I just clamped in dead center on the blade. And ended up with some really odd bevels at the tip. Also realized early on that the angle measurements on the machine is a guide only. Every blade is different (thickness, plunge angle, distance from edge, etc) , thus changing the actual end result angle.
If you want a very specific angle, the only way to know for sure is to clamp up, mount stone, and then adjust to desired angle (with angle cube, or phone angle/level app). But I think you get the most life out of a knife by removing as little metal as possible. Therefore use the "sharpie trick" to simply adjust angle as close to original grind as possible. Then proceed through the sharpening process. The stickies in the sharpening section contains years worth of good info. Well worth the time to read as many of them as possible.
Add: also, take the time to tape up the blade and any delicate handle material. I learned the hard way that you are dealing with abrasives, and the only part of the blade I want scratched is the edge. It's not hard to take a relatively new blade, and make it look like it's got a years worth of use because of blade facial scratches. Five minutes of prep with blue painters tape is well worth the time.
Last edited:
The Burgh
Basic Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2015
- Messages
- 501
bflying, your lengthy, detailed and precise descriptions are a godsend!
Your methods for the curvature of the edge are spot on with my attempts. Always looking for a better mousetrap I am.
The odd geometries of some curves/tips usually make me resort to hand sharpening some portions. Good practice!
Thanks again to bflying and all responders.
Your methods for the curvature of the edge are spot on with my attempts. Always looking for a better mousetrap I am.
The odd geometries of some curves/tips usually make me resort to hand sharpening some portions. Good practice!
Thanks again to bflying and all responders.