I was re-profiling one of my Buck knives and it was taking forever with the 140 grit diamond stone, the stone is about 2 years old and maybe wearing a bit, I ordered the 50 grit beast and holy crap, it's sounds like i'm dragging the blade down a gravel driveway, it took about 1 minute to get a bur on each side, do you think I should order the 100 grit stone so i'm not gapping from 50 grit to 140 grit or do you think the 140 is good enough to take the scratch pattern out of the 50 grit? I'm thinking because the 140 stone wearing over time, I would say it's not a 140 anymore but maybe a 200 grit, I don't use a lot of pressure on the stone but over time I still think it's wearing, I don't want a mirror polish on my work knives, but I would like a mirror polish on my high end knives that I don't use that much, if you have an opinion I would like to hear it, thanks.
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KME USERS THE BEAST
- Thread starter tonymp
- Start date
You're the one using them, what do you think? Did it seem to take too long getting the 50 grit scratches out with the 140? How many strokes did it take? That size jump doesn't seem too big to me but I have never used them. Keep in mind that grit of diamond will really damage the apex and are only good at doing the bulk of the work, not refinement.
Before I ordered the 50 grit,I only had the 4 stones that came with it, I ordered the 50 and also got the translucent, I got a way better polish than I did before, I was wondering if the polish would be better if I add the 100, I'm gonna order the lapping films, I would like to get a good polish with the stones, obviously adding a stone should sweeten the shine in theory, just wondering if the 100 would be that much of a difference, I don't plan on using the 50 on all knives, just to re-profile when needed.
The only reason to get the 100 is if you are taking 5 times longer with the 140, after the 50, than the next finer stone. That is the indicator that the jump is too big, it takes much much longer with the next finer stone than it should to remove the scratches from the last.
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- Apr 20, 2018
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I agree with
D
Diemaker
.
I would add that use of the Beast should be rare. If used for reprofiling it should only need to be used once on that blade. You shouldn't be damaging your "high end" knives with polished edges so edge repair shouldn't be a concern.
You do not want to incorporate the Beast into normal sharpening.
I would add that use of the Beast should be rare. If used for reprofiling it should only need to be used once on that blade. You shouldn't be damaging your "high end" knives with polished edges so edge repair shouldn't be a concern.
You do not want to incorporate the Beast into normal sharpening.
Last edited:
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- Oct 11, 2014
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Tonymp, I'm not convinced diamonds are a great stone choice for all steels. Now, I am in training mode as dad, so stone choices always account for steel and the work accomplished. All super steel edges needing a re-set start with the KME 140 diamond. I thought too much pressure on our part, prematurely wore down the KME 140, as I also discerned a reduction in cutting performance (reteaching what ~5 lb max pressure is). I chose coarser KME 100 diamond (might have a beast as well) but have not used yet because super steels stay sharp a LONG time with a little honing / stropping.
For everything else, we use SIC (Silicon Carbide) from KME 80, Gritomatic 120, or the Congress Moldmaster 240. Just re-set Kershaw 8Cr, Ganzo 440C, Boker Plus VG10, and AG Russell AUS8 using Congress SIC in KME factory, or 3D printed KME Holder (Jester002100 on tubes) or Sharpmaker. SIC works great on similar steels.
For everything else, we use SIC (Silicon Carbide) from KME 80, Gritomatic 120, or the Congress Moldmaster 240. Just re-set Kershaw 8Cr, Ganzo 440C, Boker Plus VG10, and AG Russell AUS8 using Congress SIC in KME factory, or 3D printed KME Holder (Jester002100 on tubes) or Sharpmaker. SIC works great on similar steels.
Daniel
Gold Member
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- Oct 3, 1998
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I do not like the "Beast".
It does take less time to reprofile, but it also costs a lot of time trying to refine the "chewed" up edge. I don't even like the 100-still too aggressive.
The answer that I arrived at:
Atoma 140
It is a wonder to use. It is fast at reprofiling, but it does not leave the edge in a shambles. It is a sweet alternative.
It does take less time to reprofile, but it also costs a lot of time trying to refine the "chewed" up edge. I don't even like the 100-still too aggressive.
The answer that I arrived at:
Atoma 140
It is a wonder to use. It is fast at reprofiling, but it does not leave the edge in a shambles. It is a sweet alternative.
I only used the beast once, it really tore up the apex, it took a while with the 140 to smooth out the damage the beast caused, (or I caused) I not planning on using the 50 all that much after seeing what it did to my Buck knife, it also scratched up the side of the blade from the loose diamond particles that came off, I kinda new that could happen from yt videos I watched, that's why I chose the cheaper Buck knife to start with.