Knife Balance

Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
202
I've read some posts on tapered tangs which I like, but not for all knives. For the non-tapered tang knives I see people making holes down the centerline. OK, I'm getting over my head here already.

Is blade balance a science or an art? From what I've read it seems like an art. How do I learn the art?

Also, how do you make the holes in the tang? For tapered tangs, how thin do you go?

On a separate note, does it make sense to buy a height gauge?
Thanks as always!
 
You last question fist. I'd say absolutely it makes sense to buy a height guage. That's what I use to mark centerlines on my blades as well as to check symmetry.

As for the holes in the tangs, they're made using a drill press. It's a brutish operation, but it does serve to decrease tang weight on non-tapered full tangs. As for tapering and how far to go, that's just up to you. I don't taper my stock any thinner than 1/16" at the butt of the handle.

Balance is an art. The way you learn it is to go out and try it. If I'm drilling tangs, I typically drill holes and then check the balance. The un-scaled knife should be blade heavy. I'll typically even lay my handle material on the tang and check balance after drilling or tapering. It should then be slightly handle heavy as you will be removing a good bit of wood when shaping. How much you alter your balance prior to attaching the scales depends on your goal and your handle material weight.

It's not an exact science, but estimation will get you very close. I prefer balance at the index finger groove, or, on a bigger knife, just in front of it. A chopper might be more blade heavy, and a little bitty EDC, more handle heavy for security in grip.

Tapered tangs, BTW, can also be hollowed out in the middle (and typically are), thus further reducing the handle weight.

--nathan
 
Back
Top