Knife Boards for Becker Modders

daizee

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
11,130
Hey Everyone,
This has come up several times, so here's a better picture.

As Becker Modders, we are sometimes driven to silly shenanigans, such as hand-sanding the flats of hardened steel, or perhaps making BK-inspired bad ideas like the below:

IMG00017-20110314-2304-small.jpg

(Becker Content!)

When it comes to working on the flats of your blade, things can get tricky or dangerous. Fortunately a simple tool can usually keep things under control.

This is called a 'knife board' (or that's what I was told it's called). It will hold the blade flat for you, supported along much of its length, and if you use it right (tip never protrudes past the end!) will be good insurance against a certain category of horrible impaling accidents (but not all, so use your head):

IMG_20140408_222158-small.jpg


Many of you have see a picture like that before, but below is the 'expose'!
This is simply made from a piece of metal from the hardware store that I bent. I also tapered it a bit near the tip to partially match the belly of a blade. But note that it is expressly NOT pointy. The reddish stuff with all the sanding dust on it is a piece of cheap craft foam from a hobby store. This acts as no-skid under the blade and prevents scratches on the back side. Once I've sanded/polished one side I'll cover it with blue tape, but the extra protection doesn't hurt. The little cam clamp is easily adjustable for the right pressure to accommodate any reasonable steel thickness.

IMG_20140408_222529-small.jpg


Voila: Knife Board.

Go forth and mod safely!

-Daizee
 
:thumbup:

Once I set up my garage this summer I'll definitely have to set one of these up. Thanks for the tip!
 
Many thanks for posting this up...funny thing is that I did a quick search (far too late) last night for this vis-a-vis Hank Sr. and ended up with a bunch of cutting board images....
What type and thickness of steel did you use, and may I ask how you bent it? Does this arrangement flex at all? I guess I'm wondering if you're filing a knife at the tip what kind of deflection happens, if any.
Also, are there any other stupid questions I forgot to ask that you could maybe answer anyway?
 
GSOM, I used a piece of fence gate strapping, or whatever you call that stuff. it's probably 5/32" thick. All I did was cut it to length and bend it. It already had that hole (and several others) drilled in it. I'm sure I bent it by putting it in a vise and wailing on it with a mallet. It flexes very little. The knife can flex at the tip. I've seen one maker's knife board that had an array of set screws so he could support the entire blade along the bevel as well. That sure looked like a lot of work...

Other answers to questions not asked:
It was cut with a hacksaw.
the edges were dressed on a 1x42 belt sander, and burs removed.
I hang it on the wall when I'm not using it.
yes, I've banged into it when leaving it in the vise.
the vise is a Cha's Parker #973 3"
the clampy thing came from a used tool store
the vise is bolted at all three points, the middle of which goes through the 2x4 support member under the bench
wear a mask when hand-sanding
if your edge is sharp, make sure it doesn't protrude over the side!! (egad)

how dat?
 
Exactly.

I'll prolly make one just like it. Only way more complicated. I mean, what kind of tool is a simple piece of bent steel? It should probably get a laser, or at least some sort of plasma discharge thingy.
 
Thanks! I tried to google it, too, based on your answer in a different thread, and nothing came up but cutting boards.
I've got a piece of 3/16 steel lying around that I already smoothed and flattened on one side, and plenty of hobby foam, so I think I'm good to go.
Just need to put a bend in it, and see how it can help me on my upcoming BK15.
 
If you get the plasma discharge thingy working, let me know. I couldn't get it to work, so I took it off - it was kind of in the way.
 
This is definitely better than my rube goldberg affair of a 2x6 routered out "less than the thickness of the metal to be sanded".
 
I've always just clamped an old table leg I had laying around into a vise and then clamped the knife to the leg with a c clamp. This looks much more professional and less "bubba-y". I may just have to upgrade once I move into my new place
 
"bubba-y" I might have to use that one from time to time.

Good effort saving idea and good safety, Daiz. This might be the only way to fly.
I bet you could tooldip the metal component, or get the no-skid gel lattice based drawer liner, or maybe even peel the cloth off an old mousepad to be the nonskid component.
 
"bubba-y" I might have to use that one from time to time.

Good effort saving idea and good safety, Daiz. This might be the only way to fly.
I bet you could tooldip the metal component, or get the no-skid gel lattice based drawer liner, or maybe even peel the cloth off an old mousepad to be the nonskid component.

Yep, I think all those would work. I've used the lattice no-skid too. leaving the metal bare makes it easy to wipe clean. The craft foam compresses easily, unlike tool dip, and is easy to replace when you tear it up. I think it's like $5 for a ream of the stuff.
 
Something like this?



Wouldn't bend as tight as I tried to make it, so it's not quite long enough for the 15 - but I can work with it.



Just turned it around so the pointy end doesn't stick out...
 
Something like this?

Wouldn't bend as tight as I tried to make it, so it's not quite long enough for the 15 - but I can work with it.

Just turned it around so the pointy end doesn't stick out...

Your descriptions sound reasonable, but your photobucket pix aren't showing up.
Turning it around makes sense. Also, the handle can stick off the back of the board as long as there's enough on the board to clamp to.
 
Thanks.
I thought about sticking the handle off the back, but I already had a couple 3/16" holes drilled and chose not to drill another just yet - until I proved that I needed to.
Pics should be back up just after Easter.
 
Thanks.
I thought about sticking the handle off the back, but I already had a couple 3/16" holes drilled and chose not to drill another just yet - until I proved that I needed to.
Pics should be back up just after Easter.

holes??
 

Sure. Holes. I repurposed a piece of steel that had (2) 3/16" holes in it about 5 inches apart. I used one to secure the knife to the board, then a c-clamp to keep it from spinning around the newly created pivot.
I don't have any of those cam clamps like yours. But if I was awake when I was setting it up, I suppose I could have ignored the holes and either made the c-clamp nice and tight with the handle off the end on the vice side, or used 2 clamps. (with the foam board between the knife and steel plate, probably 1 clamp is more than sufficient. But I have overkill problems sometimes when I build stuff up.)
Hmm. I think I'll try that when I start the other side tonight.
Sometimes I'm a friggin genius.
Thanks, again, for setting me straight!

It'll all make sense in a week when the photos turn themselves back on.
A picture's worth a thousand words, you know. I think I have a couple hundred left...
 
ah, got it.
yeah, one tiny C-clamp with the foam should be MORE than sufficient. If you're torquing it around... well, then I don't know WHAT you're doing!
 
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