Knife buying pre requisites for myself, ymmv

F

Fletcher.357

Joined
Jul 6, 2013
Messages
291
1. If it is a mini or a small Im usually not interested. I use mine way too often with gloves on and I need to be able to get ahold of it.
2. No linerlock
3. No assisted opener.
4. If its a fixed blade it has to have a good leather or kydex sheath no nylon

These are my basics for new purchases at this point. So far in 2017 all I have picked up is another Large Inkosi.
 
( read some posts and remembered some more things )
Prefer Lockbacks or slipjoints, not big on liner or frame locks because I'm a lefty.
No flippers, waves, or assisted openers.
Can't be a broad knife mostly designed for looks.
No super thick blades.
No modern super steels.
Basic carbon or cv steels whenever possible
No tanto's
No recurves
No combo edges ( seal pup is my 1 exception )
Clip point blades whenever possible
No ZT abomination blades ( look like curved sheep's foots )
3.5" or less for in pocket carry
If it has a lanyard hole with an awkward or completely useless placement it's a total deal breaker.
No jimping because it's never done right
no horribly deep forefinger choils like on the sog flash 2
No stiletto or weehawk blades as the just can't slice
Not big on all metal full sized folders ( key chain folders are fine ) this includes titanium frames.
Modern folders have to be fairly lightweight with some sort of composite frame.
Not made in China if I can get something from America for the same price.
For fixed blades I really love sabre grinds, though hollow or full flat grinds are fine.
I prefer leather sheaths, but as long as long there's a strong snap instead of velcro I'm happy.
Lastly the sheath absolutely has to be lefty capable.
 
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I'm just the opposite OP

If the blade is over 3.5" or total knife is over 7.5", it's probably not for me unless I'm looking for something for a specific task.

"Cheaper Steels", I'm just done with them. I'm glad they're super easy to sharpen and all, but I hate having a knife in a design I love then needs to be resharpened after every use. Not all "Cheaper steels" have low HRC or poor edge retention, but for my general purpose if it's not at least S30V I'm probably not interested.

I don't like lots of colors and definitely don't want anything on the blade.

I have to be able to carry it clip up.
 
There are always exceptions but, in general:

No frame locks or all metal handles.

No clip points .

No super thick blades.

No sandblasted finish.

No saw back spines.

No or little bling (the less writing and logos on a knife, the better).

No black finish on blades.

Pocket clips desired on folders.

Must be able to open folders with one or two hands (with gloves is even better).

Blade no less than 3 inches on folder if possible. Vic Cadet OK at 2.5 inches.

Leather or quality nylon sheaths OK. Horizontal carry desired for folders with sheath.

No autos. AO is fine if it can be disabled.

American made if possible.
 
Edit: misread thread but corrected.

  • No assisted
  • No autos
  • No tanto
  • No huge recurves on blade
  • S30V, XHP, 154CM or better
  • Stainless steel only
  • No serrations
  • No chisel ground
  • Blade to handle ratio to be close
  • Thumbs studs with PB washers (no teflon)
  • Flipper to be with bearings
  • Manual opening only
  • Blade length between 3.5 and 4 inches
  • Handle: titanium, CF, G10
  • Frame lock, liner lock, compression lock, Axis (and the like)
  • No lockback/midlock
  • No FRN or the like
  • Aluminum debatable
  • 3D pocket clip but spring clip like on CRK is good
  • Weight below 6oz
  • No clones
  • No balisong/butterfly
  • Not too much writing on blade (limit to blade steel and maker/company logo)
  • Blade- satin, stonewash, beadblast but NO acidwash or coatings


Phew thats a lot but i know what i like and dont like
 
Last edited:
Fixed: High toughness tool steel. At least 3/16" thick. Preferably 12" with a 5/7 ratio. Must have at least a single guard or deep finger groove that acts as a guard.

Folder: Slipjoint with at least a pull of 6 and preferably steel liners. Carbon steel blade.
 
  • Must be no bigger than 3.1" and no smaller than 2.5". Not negotiable.
  • No autos. I don't wish to get into any trouble with laws, and they are banned outright in my country anyway.
  • No AOs.
  • No traditionals.
  • Preferably all metal construction.
  • Steel should not be any lower than 5cr13.
  • Blade must not be too wide.
  • Must not cost more than $30.
 
Folders:
must visually appealing to me.
no AO.
must be good modern stainless steel. no worse than vg-10
no custom
blade no shorter than 3 inches
 
Fixed blade only
3-6 in blade
Drop point
Full flat grind
1/8th to 3/16th blade thickness
Black micarta or g10
no fuller
no coating
no anniversary or advertising on blade
no hidden tang
no 440
 
Has to fold. No assisted openers. No flippers unless there is another method of opening. No ball bearing. Blade has to be over 3.3 inch for a locking blade. For slipjoints-they have to be on the slim and thin side. No more than 2 blades.
 
Fixed blades, 3-6 inches, carbon steel or better stainless steel, brut de forge finish, frontier look or period look.

Now that being said, any prerequisites before you buy new knives? Like sell or trade two before you buy another one? In way to reduce the herd?
 
My knife buying pre-requisites:
1. It must be a knife.
2. I must want to buy it.
3. It must be affordable (Note: "Affordability" is directly proportional to the level of #2)
4. I must have a plausible excuse why a bank payment of "X$ to ABC Knife Shop" was really a power bill, car repair or a credit card payment. I'm a married man. Nuff said.
5. See pre-requisite #1.
 
stabman said:
I have to like the knife.
That is all.
Click to expand...

Same here Stabby. If it catches my eye I'm 90% sure I'll pick it up.
I guess the only other thing that I watch is the company I buy from.
No CRKT, Gerber, knock offs......no cheap shit. I use my knives pretty hard, for work, and I really am quite fond of my fingers!!
Joe
 
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