Knife design and making progress, trials and errors.

[EDC-Han]

Hey Knifemakers,

My name is Golden, I am a self-taught knife designer, knife-making hobbyist. I started designing my first knife a year ago. I first used AutoCAD software to draw my knife design, soon after I stepped up to the Fusion 360.

I have learned a lot of experience through the designing phase, I think I have come across some of the best free Softwares used to design a knife.

I would like to tale tell some of the experience and maybe contribute a few tips for people who just start their knife designing. I believe many people are looking into designing knife by using CAD.

I will be talking about only two software that I used the most, AutoCAD and Fusion 360.



As the early of my knife design, learning the basic and getting a hold of the CAD is the most challenging part for me. I am still learning new stuff every day. Any software would only partially benefit you to transfer the envision of your design to the computer. The designing phase requires your artistic talent and basic knowledge of knife functions.

Because I like knives, I personally own a collection of few knives. I would disassemble the knives that I have to study the mechanics of functional parts and to learn the knowledge behind the specific design of the functional parts. I also read online articles, researches done by others.

By reading, watching the available information, I have had a decent amount of knowledge about how to design a knife, what practical functions I want the knife to possess.

I learned not to copy others original design instead improve the design in my own creative way.


Knife designing only requires knowing the basic commands in CAD software, the rest of big part is knowing what you want on your drawing.

I would recommend start knife designing on Fusion 360, it is easy to use, versatile and user-friendly. It can accomplish 2D to 3D transition without any other steps, 3D to CAM transition all in one place.

#1 Pay special attention to the steps you will be doing when creating the design, going the extra step just for safety will not hurt you.

#2 Remember to save your data, saving your work is very important.

#3 Function check your design in the software.

#4 3D print your design or print on the paper to make your own prototype is a great way to save money but get the hold of your design.

Let me know if you have any questions, comment them down below.
I will get into my design and what I am going to do next in a minute.

Here is a list of resource I used to get me started on,
Edward R Knives
Gough Custom
Gillian Knives
Luke Scheepers
JohnGrismsmo
NYC CNC
Ekim knives

They all have amazing videos on youtube.



Okay, Let us get into my design, This will not be the final look of my knife, But for now it is the what I want it looks for my prototype. I had many various designs before this one, they all look different.

Basic dimensions, the blade is under 4", The overall is under 8". The reason why a short blade is that I want a large blade rather than a long blade. By having a short blade it also allows users to carry a fixed blade in knife unfriendly states like where I live, NY.

I designed it to be a daily carry which can take up some heavy uses. So I make it thick, make it relatively small compared to other fixed knives.

Here is a 3D model of my design.
https://imgur.com/P1Wv1lB
https://imgur.com/XGX6mjb

I previously posted a thread to ask for recommendations on Waterjet shop to cut my prototype knife blank. Thanks for the advice. I contacted the leading edge and I the material is on its way. Shouts out to Leading Edge fabricating, Chris, Andrew, Stacy, and others.

I am thinking next step is to have someone to help me CNC milling the bevel out, chamfer and filler the knife. But I could not find someone. Help me out, guys. I have also designed a folder, but I want to start with the fixed blade which is easier. I can also accept knife collaboration. I am open to all possibilities.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The problem with being a new knife designer without a good bit of knifemaking experience is that you don't know what is and isn't a good design. Many things look great on a computer screen, but are impractical or just plain bad in hardened steel.

Thanks for sharing the software end of it. That is always good info.

 

[EDC-Han]

The problem with being a new knife designer without a good bit of knifemaking experience is that you don't know what is and isn't a good design. Many things look great on a computer screen, but are impractical or just plain bad in hardened steel.

Thanks for sharing the software end of it. That is always good info.

Thank you for your support.

 

[tim37a]

It doesn't sound like you made a wood pattern to check how comfortable the knife would be to use. Although the handle looks very techie, I suspect you are going to find the handle is too thin, from top to bottom, to use comfortably. When using the knife for heavy duty chores, I suspect the handle will try to turn in your hand. I do like the blade shape, though.

 

[EDC-Han]

It doesn't sound like you made a wood pattern to check how comfortable the knife would be to use. Although the handle looks very techie, I suspect you are going to find the handle is too thin, from top to bottom, to use comfortably. When using the knife for heavy duty chores, I suspect the handle will try to turn in your hand. I do like the blade shape, though.

Thank you, I actually 3D printed the knife before. If added the scales the knife would be held firmly still. unless heavy chopping on the wood, I would not suspect it will roll in my hand. I will try make a wood sample of my design if I have the proper tool. Great advice.

 

[C_Claycomb]

It would have been nice if you had posted the actual picture to the forum, rather than just a link. Makes it easier to see. Like this.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Can you explain the slot below the spine and the large hole at the neck.

 

[AVigil]

Why is the spine of the knife so much lower then the top of the tang?

 

[john april]

i think the handle is too thin near the end or pommel. if you were whittling hickory or something with hard pressure the handle would probably feel like it wanted to spin or turn in your hand.

 

[Natlek]

I designed it to be a daily carry which can take up some heavy uses. So I make it thick, make it relatively small compared to other fixed knives.

In that case you removed steel in wrong place . . . .

 

[C_Claycomb]

1. You want it strong, as Natlek says, you have taken material away from two places that will make it much weaker, for no apparently good reason. Why are there big holes in the handle?
2. You have put in a choil that is smaller than the plunge, the plunge either needs to be tighter, or the choil larger, or just get rid of it.
3. The cut out in the blade has a corner roll over that is really tiny and will be a pain to make. I can see no good reason for the blade cut out, and really no reason for the all around radius.
4. The tang has a rolled edge, which means your handle scales will be even smaller. The handle is already too small, top to bottom and even with scales is going to be hard to hold on to.

I am dubious about that handle profile being ergonomic. It looks like it has been designed for a sabre style grip, thumb on the spine. This is a weak grip, and you say you want this to be strong for heavy work. Getting fancy to tailor a handle for one grip often means it becomes less good in others. Handles that look great on paper often are not in the hand and sometimes those that feel good in the hand in the workshop are not so good once you start applying real world forces and real world grip changes. This last is particularly true when you are designing a new style. Say your first chopper after you have only made 4-5" utility knives.

CNC is usually much more costly and time consuming for making a one-off than just making it all by hand. CNC is not like 3D printing. If you have your own CNC, like J. Grimsmo, then you can play with your own designs, but if you want someone else to do that work you should expect them to want paying. I don't think you should expect this to be cheaper than commissioning someone to make you a custom blade.