Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,991
I have had several conversations over the past year with people who say,"I never know what a knife will look like until its done."While that may work for abstract art,it is not a good way to build knives.I'll start with some ideas on designing knives,and you other makers add on your tips.We should build up a pretty good tutorial thread.
FIRST, get a pad of note paper,several are better.Put one next to your easy chair,one in the shop,etc.When you think of and idea or improvement jot it down,sketch it,change a previous sketch,....
The most important thing is to understand what the function of the knife will be.Then decide on the basic shape/style you have in mind.Think of any unique features and ideas you have that the knife will be using.
Don't necessarily go with the first idea,a good design evolves.If this is a custom knife for a customer,involve the person in this evolution.Instead of a good knife you will end up with the best knife.
Make paper,cardboard,Masonite profiles.Hold them ,swing them around ,pretend you are doing whatever the function of the knife is.Does it feel right,what could change?Trim,remake,experiment.I prefer Masonite (1/8 and 1/4" are less than $10 for a 4X8'sheet).It grinds like real soft wood,doesn't splinter,and you have a permanent pattern to go by.You can also mail it to the customer (I mail several possible candidates) ,for him to try out and comment on.Write notes on the patterns.Keep everything in an old shoe box,what didn't work today may be the right thing on another day.
Use clay,wood,aluminum,anything to work up the design.CAD programs are nice,but your hands tell you what feels right.
Once you have the basic design thought up,THEN decide what materials will be used.At this point you will have enough information to pick the best steel,handle material,etc.As you consider the material you may change your design- Stick tangs may become full tangs;Wood may become stag;Guards and pommels may change to mokume' and butt caps;and so on.
Never be penny wise and pound foolish! The difference of $10 dollars in material cost is nothing compared to the hours you will be investing in the knife.
Don't be in a hurry.This is the downfall of many (most) new makers - myself included - to rush into the shop and make as many knives as you can crank out.Without a good idea in you mind,they will be mediocre at best.Before you light the forge or turn on the grinder,have a very defined image of the finished knife and how you are going to form it.Again,PUT IT ON PAPER,so you can refer to it as needed.
Work slow,think ahead to the next step or two.This will avoid trying to drill holes in hardened steel ,soldering on a guard before you have put the final grind on a blade,etching steel with tape covering the guard,and such other"Learning experiences".
Don't despair your mistakes,they teach you a lot about what doesn't work.
Don't accept half measures of effort/skill/talent from yourself.Never say,"Well it isn't right,but it will be OK." If possible,go back and fix the problem.It is better to regrind a scratch out than to say ,"Its not that bad."Any BAD that can be avoided/corrected is still BAD.On every knife do the best that you are capable of,and take pride in the fact that you did! Any established maker has a big barrel of rejected blades that didn't come out "quite right".They don't accept 'almost good', and neither should you.
Any process grows- change things as you make the knife/handle to incorporate things that come up.A beautiful burl pattern that appears while grinding;an interesting rise to the point as you forge;a curve to the finger guard as you shape it.....
Try to finish a project before you go off on an entirely new one.The creative juices go stale (or rot) if left too long.I have been known to pull a half forged blade from my forging bag and say,"What was I going to do with this blade?
Practice,practice,practice.And when you have it perfect,practice some more.God made scrap steel (and friends who dump it on you) for practice.When learning the feel of hot steel under the hammer,and how it moves,any carbon steel is good steel.BUT,throw it into a box that only you will ever see when your done.Don't be tempted to 'Finish' it as a junk knife since you have time in it.You don't want to be known as the maker of junk.That box will be your best investment of time and learning.
OK,what other ideas do you guys have?...........
FIRST, get a pad of note paper,several are better.Put one next to your easy chair,one in the shop,etc.When you think of and idea or improvement jot it down,sketch it,change a previous sketch,....
The most important thing is to understand what the function of the knife will be.Then decide on the basic shape/style you have in mind.Think of any unique features and ideas you have that the knife will be using.
Don't necessarily go with the first idea,a good design evolves.If this is a custom knife for a customer,involve the person in this evolution.Instead of a good knife you will end up with the best knife.
Make paper,cardboard,Masonite profiles.Hold them ,swing them around ,pretend you are doing whatever the function of the knife is.Does it feel right,what could change?Trim,remake,experiment.I prefer Masonite (1/8 and 1/4" are less than $10 for a 4X8'sheet).It grinds like real soft wood,doesn't splinter,and you have a permanent pattern to go by.You can also mail it to the customer (I mail several possible candidates) ,for him to try out and comment on.Write notes on the patterns.Keep everything in an old shoe box,what didn't work today may be the right thing on another day.
Use clay,wood,aluminum,anything to work up the design.CAD programs are nice,but your hands tell you what feels right.
Once you have the basic design thought up,THEN decide what materials will be used.At this point you will have enough information to pick the best steel,handle material,etc.As you consider the material you may change your design- Stick tangs may become full tangs;Wood may become stag;Guards and pommels may change to mokume' and butt caps;and so on.
Never be penny wise and pound foolish! The difference of $10 dollars in material cost is nothing compared to the hours you will be investing in the knife.
Don't be in a hurry.This is the downfall of many (most) new makers - myself included - to rush into the shop and make as many knives as you can crank out.Without a good idea in you mind,they will be mediocre at best.Before you light the forge or turn on the grinder,have a very defined image of the finished knife and how you are going to form it.Again,PUT IT ON PAPER,so you can refer to it as needed.
Work slow,think ahead to the next step or two.This will avoid trying to drill holes in hardened steel ,soldering on a guard before you have put the final grind on a blade,etching steel with tape covering the guard,and such other"Learning experiences".
Don't despair your mistakes,they teach you a lot about what doesn't work.
Don't accept half measures of effort/skill/talent from yourself.Never say,"Well it isn't right,but it will be OK." If possible,go back and fix the problem.It is better to regrind a scratch out than to say ,"Its not that bad."Any BAD that can be avoided/corrected is still BAD.On every knife do the best that you are capable of,and take pride in the fact that you did! Any established maker has a big barrel of rejected blades that didn't come out "quite right".They don't accept 'almost good', and neither should you.
Any process grows- change things as you make the knife/handle to incorporate things that come up.A beautiful burl pattern that appears while grinding;an interesting rise to the point as you forge;a curve to the finger guard as you shape it.....
Try to finish a project before you go off on an entirely new one.The creative juices go stale (or rot) if left too long.I have been known to pull a half forged blade from my forging bag and say,"What was I going to do with this blade?
Practice,practice,practice.And when you have it perfect,practice some more.God made scrap steel (and friends who dump it on you) for practice.When learning the feel of hot steel under the hammer,and how it moves,any carbon steel is good steel.BUT,throw it into a box that only you will ever see when your done.Don't be tempted to 'Finish' it as a junk knife since you have time in it.You don't want to be known as the maker of junk.That box will be your best investment of time and learning.
OK,what other ideas do you guys have?...........