Knife for EDC

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Sep 18, 2006
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94
I'm a little embarrassed to be asking this, because a question like this to knife gurus like you folks is way below your league. ;)

Unfortunately, being a broad question and the fact that I can't search the forums, it looks like I'll have to go ahead and ask.

With the hundreds, possibly even thousands, of knives out there, what criteria can I use to narrow the field down? I need it for urban EDC uses, and costing less than $150. But that still leaves hundreds of knives. I just don't understand, and I don't mean this offensively, how you can look at two knives and prefer one over the other. Or say "That one's good for this task, but the other one is better for this other task.". What particular features of a knife determine what it may be better for? I mean, compare a Spyderco Endura with a Spyderco Delica, both with the same kind of steel and the same sharpness, I just don't see any practical difference.
 
You have to be blind to see no difference between the Delica and Endura.
 
Could you better define urban EDC usage?

How long is too long of a blade for you?

Do you need serration's?
 
does urban mean not to big and not too sharp?
you can also be more specific with your price range. when i shop for a knife, I usually decide on knives between $30 to $50. more expensive or much cheaper ones are impulse buys.
 
You have to be blind to see no difference between the Delica and Endura.

Superficially, of course, there's a difference, but from a practical standpoint I can't see how they perform any different from each other.

Could you better define urban EDC usage?

How long is too long of a blade for you?

Do you need serration's?

I'd draw a line at 5 inches, though size isn't too much of a concern. Sheeple may get the wrong impression, though, so it's probably best to keep it <5"

No, I don't want serrations.

does urban mean not to big and not too sharp?
you can also be more specific with your price range. when i shop for a knife, I usually decide on knives between $30 to $50. more expensive or much cheaper ones are impulse buys.


No, sorry, by urban I mean for EDC use in your typical suburban lifestyle. In other words, nothing outdoors and rigorous. As for price, I'm not the expert, I really don't know how much is necessary on the lower-end for a good knife that will perform well. On the upper-end of the price-range, I'd be hesitant to fork over more than $120 or so. I should note that I plan on hand-sharpening it to be extremely sharp, hair-whittling so.
 
What would be the uses of this knife? You should probably find out what, if any, blade length regulations are in place where you live. I would think for surburban the blade length would be better at 3.5" or less. Of course I live in a surburban area and carry a 4.0"+ on a regular occassion, but always pair it up with a small slipjoint for sheeple use. A drop point or a clip point blade style would serve you well for many purposes and tasks you might find yourself doing. I'm going to go ahead and throw out a knife to consider. Since you have already mentioned Spyderco, check out a Caly 3. One model comes in G-10 handle scales and VG-10 blade steel, while another version has carbon fiber scales and a ZDP189 blade. This knife has a 3.0" blade. Though I have never had one, I read and see this knife mentioned everytime in this type thread. The cost of the G-10/VG-10 is around $100.00, while the CF/ZDP189 is around $150.00.
 
Suburban EDC, high end steel, but very reasonably priced? Kershaw's Composite Blade Leek.
 
You cannot go wrong with a Benchmade mini griptillian. Small, easy to open, and close. 154cm steel sharp and easy to sharpen. Will handle anything urban. If you want bigger Benchmade 710 D2 is my personal favorite but might be a bit big for the sheep. (Why do you carry a knife people) Mini grip is about $65 the 710 is about $120. Keep it simple.
 
Well, based upon your question, I'd wouldn't recommend any knife.

Lurk the forum for a few weeks and then ask yourself.

If you have to get one, just don't get a liner-lock. I don't recommend them to anyone anymore - too unreliable no matter the cost.
 
I am an urban homeowner. I find that for urban EDC (aside from traditional patterns) I like the following:
One hand open.
pocket clip
framelocks, Lockbacks, and Axis locks in no particular order of preference. Some folks have a preference.
Somewhere about a 3" blade.
Don't care for serrated or partially serrated blades. Most folks around here don't.
Not fussy about handle materials. Some folks are.
Not enthused with assisted open. Some folks are.

That still leaves a lot of folders out there and leaves a lot of the choice up to personal preference. You have to find out what handle styles and blade styles work best for you individually.

If it were I, instead of jumping in with both feet and spending that much money before you really know what you like, I would buy a couple of lower cost models to try stuff out.

Some of the lower cost models that are still really good are:
Benchmade Monochrome
Benchmade Griptilian
Benchmade Vex
Spyderco Delica
Sypderco Tenacious
Kershaw Centofante
Kershaw Cyclone
Kershaw Leek
 
Well, based upon your question, I'd wouldn't recommend any knife.

Lurk the forum for a few weeks and then ask yourself.

If you have to get one, just don't get a liner-lock. I don't recommend them to anyone anymore - too unreliable no matter the cost.

I agree that you should lurk and what not, but I cannot share the negativity towards liner locks. I have never had a liner lock fail, although I only have good ones. I have had Buck and Case lockbacks fail. . . should I warn everyone against lockbacks?

All that aside, to address your question- you should probably narrow it down a bit. Do you really want to spend on the upper end of the range? Do you want a thin slicer or something beefy? What kind of handle materials do you want, What style appeals to you- modern or traditional? Are you good at sharpening? You will need to sharpen the knife, so if the $150 is your total budget, I recommend spending ~$50 on a Spyderco Sharpmaker to easily maintain the edge.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, especially those low-price ones, knarfeng. I'll be sure to buy some of those cheaper ones and try them out. I'm still not too sure what I'm supposed to be looking for in a knife, though. I could try out all of the knives mentioned in this thread, but how can I tell which ones are better? Beyond their aesthetical appeal, how can I measure their worth?
 
I think comfort in the hand is the biggest. Doesn't matter if a knife looks awesome if it's not comfortable. It will end up sitting in your drawer. Take advantage of the return policies and try out 3-4 knives suggested here and see which you like the best. Note which are most comfortable and how they feel in your pocket.
 
Beyond their aesthetical appeal, how can I measure their worth?

Let's see how much sense I make at 3am after a loooong day.

Like most other things, by the cost of the materials to a large degree. Nice leather interior in a car is more expensive then vinyl but both will keep your butt off the seat springs. A mahogany bookcase will be more then one of plywood but both will hold books. Is the added expense worth it to you?

A $80 knife should have better steel, scales (handles), and better construction (ie. closer tolerances, more reliable lock due to closer tolerances and materials, fit and finish, etc.) then a $10 knife. Better steel will be less likely to break or chip and hold an edge better. A nice textured G10 handle will provide better grip and last longer then some cheaper plastic ones. And so on...

I suggest lurking here and reading up on steel. An important component to steel is the heat treat process. Two knives with 440C steel may not really be equivalent. This is where brand name can make a difference. Some manufacturers are known for good quality heat treats. 420HC isnt known as great steel but Buck 420HC has a very good rep due to Paul Bos and the heat treatment.*

*if I'm not mistaken

If you get a chance, go to your local knife/gun/hunt shop and handle a few knives. Ergonomics are an important part of a knife, after all, it is a tool that fits in your hand right? You need to find a knife that fits your hand well. Some knives cater to smaller hands, some to larger hands.

Hope this ramble makes some sense.
 
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I'd say after reading your needs and price range the Benchmade Griptilian (small or large), or the Spyderco Centofante would be great for you. I can't speak highly enough about Benchmade's products though. Amazing knives and amazing service! Can't go wrong with the guys out in Oregon!:thumbup:
 
Lots of good advice & suggestions for you so far.
Here's another one.
The Buck 110:

004-14.jpg


It's a little heavier than some of the others,but a very solid knife.

No belt clip though. Carry it in a belt pouch or a pocket.

Cliff
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, especially those low-price ones, knarfeng. I'll be sure to buy some of those cheaper ones and try them out. I'm still not too sure what I'm supposed to be looking for in a knife, though. I could try out all of the knives mentioned in this thread, but how can I tell which ones are better? Beyond their aesthetical appeal, how can I measure their worth?

wow I'm shocked that you hang around here, have 80 posts, and are asking these questions. Are you pulling our leg or what :confused: If your interested in "cheaper" knives and you can't tell the difference in any of them than just go to walmart or home depot for your knives and pick one.
 
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Lots of good advice & suggestions for you so far.
Here's another one.
The Buck 110:

004-14.jpg


It's a little heavier than some of the others,but a very solid knife.

No belt clip though. Carry it in a belt pouch or a pocket.

Cliff

Hey Cliff.....that's a nice city you live in!:D
 
With the hundreds, possibly even thousands, of knives out there, what criteria can I use to narrow the field down? I need it for urban EDC uses, and costing less than $150. But that still leaves hundreds of knives. I just don't understand, and I don't mean this offensively, how you can look at two knives and prefer one over the other.
This is a very good question....certainly nothing to be embarrassed over.

Mongomondo hit the nail right on the head....
I think comfort in the hand is the biggest. Doesn't matter if a knife looks awesome if it's not comfortable. It will end up sitting in your drawer.
The first thing I do when looking at knives is open it up and actually hold the knife....and if it doesn't feel good in my grip then I simple will not buy it.
This is one the pitfalls of buying an unfamiliar knife online....you don't get to handle it.

Now let's say you've got two or three knives that are equally comfortable in your grip....
I then look at the locking mechanism.
I just don't like liner-locks, so if the knife is a liner-lock then it's also off the list.
I prefer frame-locks, Benchmade's Axis-lock, Spyderco's Compression-lock, or the good old reliable lock-back.

Now let's say that all of the contenders have a locking mechanism that I like....
I then look at where it's made.
Some folks don't mind a knife made in China, but I do.
I don't mind a knife made in Japan or Germany so much, but I try to buy U.S. made knives whenever possible.
I wont get into specifics but basically I think that a man's knife is something special and not just another appliance...so I prefer a knife created by my fellow countrymen.

Now let's say that all of the contenders are made in the U.S.A.....
I then look at the overall knife dimensions.
Basically it must be neither too small nor too large, neither too short nor too long, neither too fat nor too thin, and neither too heavy nor too light.
These are all totally subjective for every individual so there is no right or wrong answer here.

Pocket-clips:
I can take'em or leave'em.....overall, I think that they make about 99.9% of all knives less comfortable to use.
These days I prefer a belt sheath (unless I'm wearing a suit or my hospital scrubs).
Luckily, I haven't found many knives that you couldn't remove the pocket-clip and find a good sheath for.

I then look at the blade design.
I prefer a knife with a nice sharp point and a little bit of belly (but not too much belly).
I also prefer a blade at least 3.5" but no more than 4.5" in length....it just a good everyday cutting length IMO.
I also have a few pet peeves concerning blade shapes....I don't care much for partial serrations, full serrations, tanto tips, hawkbills, extreme recurves, or double-edge blades.

I then consider the materials.
I want a knife that will last for a long while and one that can take alittle rough treatment.
Luckily, most quality folders today are plenty tough....it's really becoming a non-issue.

Blade-steel:
I admit that I'm abit of a steel snob....I like S30V and VG10 the most.
But I also admit that for about 90% of all cutting, the blade-steel really doesn't make much difference.
But if I'm considering two knives, and one has better blade-steel than the other, and the price isn't too much higher, I'll go with the one with the better steel everytime.

I also consider the maker of the knife.
I prefer to support companies whom I know have great customer service and who have consistantly produced good products.
And if it's a U.S. company all the better.

This falls low down on the list, but I do consider the appearance.
All other things being equal, why not choose the more attractive looking knife?

And last, but not least, I consider the asking price.
If I think that something is over-priced then I simple will not buy it.
I've done so in the past and have learned my lesson well.


And just in case you're wondering, my current EDC is a Custom Shoppe Buck 110 with S30V blade.

Good luck,
Allen
 
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