knife for edge angle expirements

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coyotes72

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Feb 23, 2016
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Hello, I have not posted anything on here for a while and in the mean time i have gotten a Sharpmaker and gotten to a whole new level of sharpness. I can really notice a difference between the way a 40 degree inclusive angle cuts versus a 30 degree inclusive angle. i would like to get a knife that is fairly easy to sharpen and less than about $75. I was thinking about an ESEE Izula but wanted to know if there were other options that I had not considered. So if anybody has any suggestions they would be appreciated. Also, what is the smallest angle that 1095 will generally hold on normal edc tasks?

On a random side note, I would remove the burr on a 8cr13mov kershaw on the meduim stones, and after moving to the fine stones and using light pressure it would be back. Is this most likely a result of my technique or because of the soft steel? Thanks for any information.

If this is a repeat or in the wrong subforum, I apologize.
 
The burr on the sharpmaker i feel like is very hard to remove, ceramics in genral i have trouble with burrs

1095 will take a very keen edge if u want it too
 
If you are doing sharpening experiments, you could pick up 2 or 3 Old Hickory knives, sharpen them differently then compare each while doing the same cutting task.
 
coyotes72 said:
Hello, I have not posted anything on here for a while and in the mean time i have gotten a Sharpmaker and gotten to a whole new level of sharpness. I can really notice a difference between the way a 40 degree inclusive angle cuts versus a 30 degree inclusive angle. i would like to get a knife that is fairly easy to sharpen and less than about $75. I was thinking about an ESEE Izula but wanted to know if there were other options that I had not considered. So if anybody has any suggestions they would be appreciated. Also, what is the smallest angle that 1095 will generally hold on normal edc tasks?

On a random side note, I would remove the burr on a 8cr13mov kershaw on the meduim stones, and after moving to the fine stones and using light pressure it would be back. Is this most likely a result of my technique or because of the soft steel? Thanks for any information.

If this is a repeat or in the wrong subforum, I apologize.
Click to expand...

Angle make difference , but not that much.......HOW thick blade is behind edge is most important HOW blade will cut .Any blade at any angle can be sharpened to shave but that don t mind that will cut good ...........If I was on your place I will play with both , angle and thickness behind edge . NOW that will make big difference :thumbsup:
 
If you use just the weight of the knife on sharpmaker you’ll remove the burr easily. Just let it slide down holding the handle with two fingers.

The thickness behind the edge is important.
Yesterday I touch up a knife that had 28,85 dps but the thickness behind the edge was too thin. After sharpening I use a strop with green compound just to clean the edge. Result, shaving sharp even at 28,85 dps.
 
I used a RADA Cutlery knife for sharpening practice and experiments for a long time. 2 or 3 of them should be about $30. They get very sharp, and are already fairly thin, so changing angles is faster.

Lower angles hold their edges longer, until they get too low. Then they just collapse. Thinner edges cut easier, until they get too thin. Then they fail too. I've run edc blades as low as 14 degrees total, 7 per side. I didn't thin the edge, so it was a pretty wide bevel, and about 0.025" thick at the top. It would cut light metal workout damage, until l got sloppy. Whittled wood nearly forever though.
 
Natlek said:
Angle make difference , but not that much.......HOW thick blade is behind edge is most important HOW blade will cut .Any blade at any angle can be sharpened to shave but that don t mind that will cut good ...........If I was on your place I will play with both , angle and thickness behind edge . NOW that will make big difference :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Coyotees72,
Like Natlek said :thumbsup:. Thin is in. I do feel the edge angle makes some dif once you start in on some hard stuff, think purple heart wood or bubinga.

I wasn't going to post but after seeing the Old Hickory suggestion (obviously a very good suggestion) I felt I would post some very inexpensive knives that I have done similar mods on.
These are Cold Steel but are practically free ($10 each). They are from the Kitchen Classic series.
They are good basic Krups German steel, very nicely heat treated and ALL THREE of mine came literally hair whittling sharp from the factory . . . no kidding.

The sheath is from Morakniv and works with no mod. doesn't fit tight but fits deep so . . . works well unless you tend to pull a lot of hand springs and cartwheels :)
In that case you could warm 'em up with a heat gun and moosh 'em in a little. I have not found the need.

The one with the grey "eye" is the modern version and I think there is just this fall a newer version. The black eye ones are better looking and have the better diamond KreyEx grip (I seriously love those grips and is why I bought them in the first place.)
My grey eye is the real beater, one of the black eyes I keep good and toothy and the other black eye I keep mirror and shallow bevel.

The reason I post these is they are THIN and will get out of the way and let you test just edge angle dif. I think they are strong enough. Since they will cut easier you will have to put less force on them to do the same work a thick knife will do so short of battoning they will be useful for quite a lot of work. As would the Old Hickorys obviously.
anyway . . . another choice to consider for low bucks and an enjoyable knife to use and carry.
Light ? These things are weightless to boot.
PS: they do have a longer version. I bought one of those. I just used the handle for scales on another knife though.
IMG_3543.jpg IMG_3578.jpg
 
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Regarding burr, ensure your white stones are very clean. The less steel clogging the white stone, the better edge you may get. When you get very sharp, the edge is so fine that even a tiny bit of pressure on stone will fold over edge and if slightly clogged the ceramic will not remove the burr effectively and you will just go back and forth.
 
a good knife for testing like this would be a Hyde square point. something like this https://hydestore.com/hyde-tools-50400-regular-square-point-knife-4-flat-side-wood-handle.html I picked up a half dozen a few years ago on a auction site for about $3 each. steel seems to be 80CrV2, 1/16" at the spine, full flat grind, hardness check showed Rc58-60. while they can't whittle hair, mine will push cut newprint and do a good job opening boxes, making fire sticks, and cleaning fish.
 
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