Knife from a file?

sph3ric pyramid

sph3ric pyramid

Joined
Jul 24, 2002
Messages
861
I ran across something interesting today.

In Japan, nothing is labeled appropriately, so I was very surprised when I found a series of files that had the hardness marked on the packaging along with the steel used.

It's SK-2 steel, at HRC 56-58.

My question is, first, what is SK-2 steel? Secondly, could I possibly make a knife out of this? I just want to make a cheap fixed-blade beater for myself.
 
Probably , i would recomend anealing it first then work it and heat treat it again , test one to destruction then you can see what it takes to 'hurt' one . There can be a problem with working a " Mystery Metal " so doing such a test will tell you a lot about the steel .
 
Never heard of the steel, but the listed Rockwell seems pretty low to me for a file.
 
Here's what you do, my friend:

Make the knife, beat it to heck and if it fails or survives - you'll know if it's good enough. ;)

Lots of folks make knives from files and 99 out of 100 are strong enough for heavy duty work.

Can't hurt to give it shot...at least you'll gain more experience grinding.

Make sure and let us know how it goes.

Dan
 
Thanks for the info. Could someone more scientifically inclined than I give me a rundown on what could be expected from the steel? I know close to nothing about metallurgy.
 
Found a little blurb in the Steel FAQ:

W-2

Reasonably tough and holds an edge well, due to its .2% vanadium content. Most files are made from W-1, which is the same as W-2 except for the vanadium content (W-1 has no vanadium).

Maybe it will make a useful blade. Will have to find out. But isn't the amount of carbon very low?

What other materials are files commonly made of?
 
In Japan, nothing is labeled appropriately, so I was very surprised when I found a series of files that had the hardness marked on the packaging along with the steel used.
Click to expand...
Are there different hardness files in this series? I wonder if these aren't hardness testers (more expensive?).
I've made some knives from files. I grind the files some, checking the spark to see if they are high carbon or casehardened mild steel. If they are high carbon, I anneal then grind them. You don't necessarily have to anneal them though (see this thread.)
Regards,
Greg
 
If that file is really W1, the carbon content is more likely to be 1.28% and not .128
 
I read the other thread, very informative.

Because this file is ostensibly at HRC 56-58, do I still need to draw out the hardness? If I temper it in an oven, will I lose hardness to an extent that it'll be useless as a knife?

Another question, does anyone know of a site that gives instructions on putting a handle on a partial tang knife?
 
Because this file is ostensibly at HRC 56-58, do I still need to draw out the hardness?
Click to expand...
No. It will make a useable blade at this hardness. Don't let it get too hot while grinding; grind bare handed and dunk it in water whenever it starts to heat up.
Regards,
Greg
 
How hot would I have to get the file to anneal it? Also, would it be possible to get the file red-hot (to heat treat) with a propane torch or similar? I have very restricted facilities (in terms of space). Is there any substitute?

I went to the dollar store today, and I found some large files which I plan to use until smooth. They are "high carbon steel" at HRC56-58. Which brings me to ask, are all files marked this way in Japan? These are made in Taiwan, however. One more question, how can one tell is a file is just case-hardened?
 
How hot would I have to get the file to anneal it?
Click to expand...
The temp is dependent upon the steel. Here is a page with temps to give you an idea: http://www.knives.com/heatreat.html

and some other links on heat treating:

http://www.zianet.com/ebear/metal/heattreat5.html#steel

http://www.newmex.com/ebear/metal/heattreat0.html

http://www.mintek.ac.za/Physmet/intermet/heatreat.htm

http://www.survivalistbooks.com/faq/metalfaq.htm

http://www.cancom.net/~hnilica/metals.html#springs


Also, would it be possible to get the file red-hot (to heat treat) with a propane torch or similar?
Click to expand...
Yes, but it will be dependent upon the torch.
This is a "weed burner", it will do it without a forge:
torch.txt

with a homemade burner in place:
flame1.txt

and in my forge:
forge.txt


itrade's forge design using the original burner:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=253613&highlight=propane+torch

If you are looking for something smaller; you might want to try a "one fire brick forge". You can also see one on Chris Crawford's site
(follow the "shop tour" link; it's in the background of the forge close-up photo).
They are discussed in these threads:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=258389&highlight=one+firebrick

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=222702&highlight=one+firebrick

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=144377&highlight=one+firebrick

Do a search of the forum for more info on it.

Another type of small forge:
http://www.geocities.com/zoellerforge/miniforge.html

Some other alternatives:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=159786

http://www.primitiveways.com/pt-knives-1.html (scroll down the page to the heat sources part)

http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000093.html (picture links don't work, but you get the idea.)

One more question, how can one tell is a file is just case-hardened?
Click to expand...
I just do a spark test. From one of links above:
" The first test I will discuss is the spark test. This is a test that anyone can perform at home. The idea is simple: the spark stream given off during a grinding operation can be used to approximate the grade or alloy of a steel. The equipment used should be a grinder with a no-load speed of 9000 rpm and a wheel size of around 2.5 inches. A semi-darkened location is necessary.

The easiest way to learn the test is to observe the spark streams from various known grades and compare them with this text. As you grind, you will see lines called carrier lines. At the termination of the carrier lines, you will see small bursts called sprigs. Low carbon (1008) is a very simple stream with few bright sprigs. The higher the carbon content, the more numerous the carrier lines and sprigs.

Some alloying elements change the appearance of the test. Sulfur imparts a flame shaped, orange colored swelling on each carrier line. The higher the sulfur, the more numerous the swellings. A spear-point shape that is detached from the end of the carrier line identifies phosphorus. The higher the phosphorous content the more numerous the spear points. Nickel appears as a white rectangular-shaped block of light throughout the spark stream. Chromium appears as tint stars throughout the carrier lines, having a flowering or jacketing effect to the carbon burst. The presents of silicon and aluminum have a tendency to depress the carbon bursts. All said, the best thing to do is make a set of standards to use as a comparison."
There are "spark charts" here.

Here are some more links that might help you out:

http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm

http://hossom.com/tutorial/jonesy/

http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html

http://octopus.freeyellow.com/knife.html

http://www.reil1.net/design.shtml

http://www.visi.com/~darus/foundry2/

http://beaumontmetalworks.com/sander.html

http://www.customknifedirectory.com/CKD_TutorialFrameset.htm

http://64.176.180.203/sitedirections.htm

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html

Regards,
Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top