Knife handle help anyone?

Tyrkon Lawson

Tyrkon Lawson

Joined
Oct 31, 2003
Messages
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O.K. I am brand new to knife making. Here is my question. For my first project all I want to do is attach some handles to some blades I already have. I want to use something like micarta or a high tec plastic for the handles and the blades are 440c. Now originally I was going to glue the handles to the blades, pin them, then finish the shaping. But recently I ran into a few people who suggested that I tap or thread the handles and the blades, bolt them together, cut off the excess bolt, and smooth everything out. Glue being optional because the bolts would keep the handles together. The knives I am experimenting with are small skinner type ranging in size from about 4.5 to 5.5 inches. Does anyone have experience with this? Is it a good idea? Do I need a special titanium kit to thread something as hard as 440c? or will a basic threading kit work?

Thanks for your help and advice in advance.
 
I guess it would depend on if you want to make the knives where they can be taken apart. IMHO is just adds time and material to the construction of the knife, not worth the trouble on simple hunters and skinners.


Ken Beatty
 
Originally posted by Tyrkon Lawson
Do I need a special titanium kit to thread something as hard as 440c? or will a basic threading kit work?

Thanks for your help and advice in advance.
Click to expand...


I don't know what the special titanium kit is, but annealed 440C(soft), can be threaded with conventional methods. If the blades are already hard, I don't think anything will help you tap them.

I can't get an idea of what type of tang you are working with, but be very careful when working with Micarta and the like. All that stuff is very toxic, and you will need a respirator to protect yourself.
 
What those guys said!

I'll just add my 2 cents.


One, you should still use some kinda glue, even if it is only silicon chalk. Keeps moisture out. Unless you really want a removable handle.

Two, you don't need to thread the tang. The knife supply places will sell a variety of bolts for this purpose: hidden, chicago, or loveless.

Three, if you want a mechanical bond, peening works about as well, but takes practice.

Personally, 2 ton epoxy, properly done works very well.

Steve
 
First off welcome to the wonderful world of knifemaking Tyrkon.

Advice 1) Check out the many different Tutorials here: http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html
Scroll down and you will find one on fitting Scale(slab)handles by Dan Gray.
On that site are links to a good selection of suppliers as well.

Advice 2) I think there might have been a misunderstanding about the threading, etc. I've got feeling that what you might want is either: Loveless or Corby Fasteners or for an even cleaner look Hidden Bolts. To see what I am talking about see here: http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm

Advice 3) What Mike said about a respirator - use a good one no matter what you choose as a handle material. Any kind of dust is bad for your lungs and many of the handle materials are toxic (some cumulatively but still toxic.)

Advice 4) Have Fun :D
 
Wow! I've got a lot to learn. Well I gotta start somewhere. Thanks for all the advice. I will check out all those links and tutorials. Much thanks again.
 
Tyrkon, since you have a number of blades to handle (I'm not trying to pee on the campfire) why not try some wood or such? It's just a personal opinion of mine for handle material, even though what you are considering using is excellent material for durability.
 
Not to beat a dead horse - but even when working with wood a respirator or at the very least a good dust mask should be worn no matter what(respirator or mask? it depends on the wood many are highly toxic - Ironwood is one good example - get a good respirator and you're covered no matter what) here's a partial list of many others:
http://www.mendelu.cz/~horacek/toxic.htm

Note though that many of these can cause skin and other problems. Also a good cleanup afterwards is essential otherwise the dust will get kicked up and.....

Lots of us "old timers" have done that "well just a little bit won't hurt" - well we're paying for it now and it ain't fun!
 
Thank you for the input on the respirator. I guess I better get myself one a.s.a.p. Any suggestions on where to get a good but affordable one? Thanks again.
 
I got mine at Home Depot for about $50.00 (?) with the chemical rated filters. Do a search (blue search button top right)on respirators and you will find much more info.
 
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