Knife Handles

Joined
Jun 5, 2006
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No matter how well crafted, or designed or big a knife blade is, the most important thing to me is how well the handle sits in my hand.

I own probably over 100 fixed blades and folders (not counting axes and swords and spears), but I'll cite two right now that fit well for me as field/survival knives, and I've talked about them before.

The first is my Master Hunter and the second is a newly acquired Mora Clipper. I'm not pimping for either manufacturer or distributer or retailer of these products. Both are vastly different in quality and price range; but I would want both in the field with me. And I can't and won't say anything about the other models these companies make, because I just don't know about them, and that is not the point; I want to talk about the function of handle design.

I prefer materials like stag, bone, wood, horn and leather. Traditionalist.

What is important to me is how a handle sits in my hand. For years I lusted after a M2 Kabar, finally got one, I don't like it because the handle is too fat. I've never carried it, it's a mint Camillus repro, I've thought about grinding the handle down but won't now because as we know it might be interesting in a couple of years.

Back to topic, the blade is an extension of my arm, and the handle in my hand controls that extension. I really have to say it, the handle is more important to me than the blade.

Start with my first two examples: The CS Master Hunter, there is nothing particularly exciting about the blade shape except that it is extremely functional, a length I like with a drop point, wide flat grind blade, thick spine, very sturdy.

The handle is made of Kraton, it is long for a full and varied grip, it is ergonomically simple and slightly rectangular in shape for easy blade alignment. The material is rubberized, very non-slip. It's very reassuring to hold, even when wet.

If I had my druthers, I'd rather be holding a stag, or bone or wood or stacked-leather handle of much more graceful designs. But I don't think I'd have the same confidence with them.

The second knife is a Mora Clipper which I have shown pictures of elsewhere. The blade isn't much longer or thicker than a decent steel paring knife, but it's Frosts, made in Sweden. It's a solid straight-simple blade.

But again, it is the well-designed handle, Kraton covered, that makes it for me. It's arched and well-contoured.

So for me, it is the handle that makes a knife handy for cutting, carving, skinning or whatever, not necessarily a fancy blade design. I mention these two knives just because I happen to own them and favor them right now; I'm not comparing them to other knives.

Would any of you like to talk about your knives that fit like this, where the handle really becomes more important than the shape of the blade?
 
due to having kids the money is tight so I pick up knives off the bAy sometimes that have good steel and need a new hadle. I was even more happy(but wished it was my idea) when I saw and bought a puukko with a birch bark handle, so I did.:D
this is the one I bought
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this is the one I did
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I too like traditional handles.:thumbup: :D The bark is warm,and the grip is sure, even wet.
 
Mewolf, that top knife is exactly the kind of traditional Scandinavian knife that I have on my Christmas list (see Skunk's Santa post). That is so sweet, thankyou! The second one sucks the pickle! (as it is in the rough shape ;) )

I'm joking, you did a beautiful job of finishing that handle and blade. I've tried a couple of stacked leather handles, not as good as yours, I know they are a challenge. Nice work!
 
I have the profileringsknive? from Ragnars Forge. It has a handle that has an oval cross-section and sits very comfortably in the hand. I have not shown it to a single person that has not commented on how well they like the handle. I wanted a fixed blade knife that I could use for a variety of chores, with a variety of grips, and this one fits the bill exactly. I don't think it gets any better than that handle and a Scandi grind for an outdoor utility knife.
 
A knife's handle is like a guitar's neck: if it doesn't feel right, it doesn't matter how good the rest of it is. Guitar players, including myself, have been known to keep a "perfect" neck and build a whole new axe around it.

I just handled a TKS dagger blade for my girlfriend. The single most time-consuming part was carefully working it down until she said it felt right in her hand. I always question makers/manus who have the same handle on all their knives... kinda limits one's options.
 
Mewolf, that top knife is exactly the kind of traditional Scandinavian knife that I have on my Christmas list (see Skunk's Santa post). That is so sweet, thankyou! The second one sucks the pickle! (as it is in the rough shape ;) )

I'm joking, you did a beautiful job of finishing that handle and blade. I've tried a couple of stacked leather handles, not as good as yours, I know they are a challenge. Nice work!
Try the stacked birch bark, it's fun to do easy, and the most comfy handle for a knife I've ever come across.

Oh yea, thanks for the compliment.:o
 
Mewolf,
Those knives you pictured are my favorite in the world, well loved and well used, safe queens are not real knifes, just knife sculptures, and I have no use for them.

BTW that Puuko is to die for. Chris
 
Nice collection Mewolf , I like how you did that stacked birch , I thought it was leather at first.
Where did you score the birch from ? and what was your method ?
 
I love the traditonal handle materials and have been known to send knives off or do some relief work myself.

However, I have become a "heretic" to my own beliefs in one regard. One of my least expensive fixed blades also sports my all time favorite grip--The Ontario RAT-5 has, for me, a perfect combination of contours, grip toughness, and grip "warmth."

It has canvas micarta slabs. As far as man made materials go, this one is tops in my book. Not the toughest, but tough enough, grippy when wet, and dries fast. If the RAT team can give me identically good canvas micarta slabs on knives in other configurations, I am going to be a convert, as the 1095 and blade profile also get the job done. I've been impressed by this knife and it has revamped my entire image of what the company is capable of.

Someone was paying attention at corporate, hiring on the RAT folks.
 
M2 Kabar, finally got one, I don't like it because the handle is too fat. I've never carried it, it's a mint Camillus repro, I've thought about grinding the handle down but won't now because as we know it might be interesting in a couple of years.


Do not be confused Camillus repros are not exact in any means to Kbar origionals especially in fit anfd finish areas such as handle shape and feel
 
EmsRescueGuy, I stand corrected, you are probably right. I don't know a lot about them. In the meantime, that knife will be an unused drawer queen.

At this point, I'm reluctant to reshape the handle...maybe I should just do it and use the damn thing, which was my first intent when I bought it. I don't buy a knife to stick in a drawer, I intend to use them all at one time or another.

I bought it 15 years ago, only have about $30 into it. It amazes me that I see cheap China knock-offs today in mil-surp shops going for about twice that price. Whether right or wrong, it's still a good Camillus product.

I'll show my age here, back when I was a teenager in the 50's, I used to see M2's in the mil-surp shops, stamped USN, going for $5. Brand new. I had a hard time putting $5 together back then, so I never got one, but always wanted one. I know, I can buy them today on the bay for at least 10 times that much. But it's not the same.

Thanks for your information ;)
 
Nice collection Mewolf , I like how you did that stacked birch , I thought it was leather at first.
Where did you score the birch from ? and what was your method ?

Started with one inch squares, then used a leather punch to put two holes about 1/4 in apart, then cut out between them to make an oval hole to accept the tang. Used the factory parts to tighten and compress as much as I could. rough trimmed with the puukko in the pick above then sanded to shape til it "felt right". :D Oiled the crap out of it to finish.

Got the raw materials across the street from my house(dead tree)
 
Coldwood I would recomend you check online If you are interested in a kabar I have seen them for under50 budK and Eknifeworks.com.

as for the camillus I agree its a good knife, I have one myself, I bought it because my brother recomended it to me after carrying one for years in the minlitary (his issue was the buck M16 bayonet which he left in a foot locker for his entire service). but I find the rounded handle much less comfortable than the kabar's more oval design.


Mewolf I have been tooking for a way to handle a Navy MK1 blade, and a long scottish dirk blade, i picked up a few years ago and you may have given me an idea for at least one of them.


Nice wokr by the way;)
 
No matter how well crafted, or designed or big a knife blade is, the most important thing to me is how well the handle sits in my hand.

Coldwood

I will agree with you on the importance of the handle in a knife. It really is an inseparable part of the knife to begin with! However, there are a couple of things I would like to point out. I too have a couple of puukkos, as well as, leukus (all in high carbon steel) and they are all amazingly sharp:eek:! All are very beautiful knives. Their handles are comfortable too! But, they lack a finger guard and I found out in person how sharp one of them was. My finger slipped enough to touch the blade and before I knew it I could see its inside:eek:! This is something very difficult to be experienced by say, a Busse or a Swamp Rat knife:cool:! So, at least for me the looks and the feel of the handle is only part of what makes a knife user friendly. The puukko which cut me looks like the one pictured in post # 2 by mewolf1 and it feels great in the hand but a missing finger guard I think is a very dangerous deficiency, mostly if right in front of the handle ends a razor sharp edge.

Back to topic, the blade is an extension of my arm, and the handle in my hand controls that extension. I really have to say it, the handle is more important to me than the blade.

So for me, it is the handle that makes a knife handy for cutting, carving, skinning or whatever, not necessarily a fancy blade design.

The way I see it, the handle is like the steering wheel of a car and the blade is the engine. You definitely need to have both in accord;)!

My $0.02.
 
Although I am a Busse fanboy, I am particular to the handle more than any other part of a tool. I have issues that make these more important every day and comfort in any handle is extremely hard to find. These 2 styles pictured below, are the only ones I use now. For a hatchet or axe, I prefer the Bahco's style of handle.:thumbup:
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Good topic, thanks!
 
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