Knife keeps chipping when im sharpening ?

A

Art vandlay

Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
6
I got a new knife made of white steel I was sharpening it with lanskey Diamond stone 800 grit the edge totally chipped when I was sharpening I don't really no why I've sharped a lot of knives an usually get really nice edges I never sharped white steel be for all the other knives I have are stainless an there fine.are diamond stones not good to sharpen white steel with an the edge angle is not very low it about 20 per side.
 
I read that. I wasn't putting any more pressure that normal an even when I raised the angle up an used less pressure didn't seem to help I ordered some shapton water stone see if that will help.
 
Art vandlay said:
I read that. I wasn't putting any more pressure that normal an even when I raised the angle up an used less pressure didn't seem to help I ordered some shapton water stone see if that will help.
Click to expand...

If you're done rebeveling, try a finer stone to sharpen with.
 
It seems to me that different abrasives leave finishes with different qualities. Diamonds, in particular, leave deep scratches and gouges in the steel--potentially this could lead to "weaker" points near a properly apexed knife and for that edge to chip out in use.

On the other hand, plenty of people use diamond abrasives without chipping problems. Without being familiar with your sharpening techniques and skills, it's hard to say.
 
Art, are you sure it isn't a very thin convex edge? If you try to sharpen a thin, high hardness convex blade like a V grind this is exactly what happens. That's why I'm asking. I've seen it before.

Joe
 
I was using lansky sharpen 800 grit diamond stone the one were you clamp the blade in an gives you the angle so it's the same.the maker of the knife said his edges are convex by default cuz he had sharpens them on water stones an the edge he said was about like 10-12 degrees per side.i ordered shapton glass stones do you think they will sharpen the knife with out chipping the edge?
 
Art, I'd give the convex method a try. Sandpaper on a mousepad is one way to try easy without getting into expenses. Instead of using the blade to "cut" into the stone, we drag ( sort of anyway) the edge instead of pushing it forward like regular sharpening. ( there are better instructions in this forum obviously, and would be worth looking at when you get time even if you are at expert level just for a refresher )

If it didn't come with a visible edge like on most production folders and instead looks like it narrowed down to a point it's convexed. Compare a picture of a Bark river knife edge with that on a nice new spyderco folder and you will see what I mean.


They are both good, but take a different technique to sharpen.

White steel run hard is great stuff. If it's just disappearing when sharpening then it's problem solving time. Problem solving 101 says begin with the easiest, most obvious things first. It's usually, not always but usually something very simple.

Good luck.

Joe
 
White steel is not brittle its just very hard and you should not be using diamonds to sharpen it.
 
Yes, waterstones are the preferred method of sharpening Japanese steel.
 
I just went though and (possibly) solved this exact issue. What I found myself doing was both not have smooth strokes at a good speed (so the blade was jumping on some raised diamonds), and after a stroke when I reset I would unintentionally hit the blade on the stone. Being extra careful and not doing both gave a non chipped edge.

Another thing could be that the steel on the surface is compromised, or your burr is shearing off. It may be an idea to take off a little more steel than you normally would to get the "bad" steel off. I have had quite a few burrs shear off, and it does leave you with a toothy and chipped edge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top