Knife Lube Advice?

Ten4leader

Ten4leader

Joined
Mar 16, 2014
Messages
164
Looking for a good knife lubricant, can't decide on one. Upon researching I found that Tuff Glide was supposedly not safe for food prep, but would it really matter if I was just using it on my pivot?
 
I would say it doesn't really matter if you are only using it on the pivot.

I use Nano-Oil on my pivots and either food-grade mineral oil or Frog Lube on my blades.
 
Frog lube. Spit will work for short periods, until you can make it back to the fort.
 
eschwebach said:
I would say it doesn't really matter if you are only using it on the pivot.

I use Nano-Oil on my pivots and either food-grade mineral oil or Frog Lube on my blades.
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I also vote for Nano-Oil, but I have used Benchmade Blue Lube and it works pretty well. Keep in mind, you don't need any oil on a blade that is made of stainless steel. So for example, S30V, S35VN, 154-CM, etc are stain resistant and can go for days without being maintained. Steels like 1095, M4, 1055, 52100, etc (carbon steels) need to have a bit more attention or they will develop surface corrosion.
 
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I use DuPont Extreme Fluoro grease and I absolutely swear by it. On some knives, I've drilled the washers or added drilled PB washers so the perforated washers can retain grease in a closed environment and make the service interval longer. I find this has a major improvement in both how smooth the knife operates and how long it can go between service. I also use Eezox as a liquid lubricant and rust preventive (formally used Tuff Glide), but I strongly prefer using a fluoropolymer grease on most moving parts of folders (and firearms). When I want to get a little grease in that pivot area and I am not doing a complete disassembly, sometimes I will use compressed air to move the grease into place. To date, every single folder I have used Extreme Fluoro on has gotten much smoother than when they were factory new, and I've not used any other lube that reduces friction anywhere near like it does.

It also has an extremely low toxicity, which I also find to be a plus.

Whatever you do, just don't use Militec-1.
 
Nano-oil is the way to go for the pivot. I use Tuff-Glide or Eezox strictly for rust prevention on the blade, they don't seem to work as well for lubrication. For spring assisted blades I use a generic white lithium grease with teflon for lubing the spring.
 
Mainy going to be useing for my pivot. So should I go with blue?
RevDevil said:
I also vote for Nano-Oil, but I have used Benchmade Blue Lube and it works pretty well. Keep in mind, you don't need any oil on a blade that is made of stainless steel. So for example, S30V, S35VN, 154-CM, etc are stain resistant and can go for days without being maintained. Steels like 1095, M4, 1055, 52100, etc (carbon steels) need to have a bit more attention or they will develop surface corrosion.
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To be honest I have only used the Benchmade Blue Lube, but I really like it! I have nothing to compare it to, but it seems to work well. I've heard good things about the Frog Lube as well.
 
Ten4leader said:
Mainy going to be useing for my pivot. So should I go with blue?
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Blue Lube is food safe from my understanding, so it wouldn't hurt if a tiny amount was accidentally ingested. The limitation of Blue Lube is that is dries out or evaporates in less than a week. I haven't paid much attention to whether it leaves behind a dry surface lube as a result, but It does work. If you only want pivot lube, then get Nano-Oil, it is what many manufacturers and custom knife makers use on their folders.
 
Thanks! Just what I needed to know.
Kid Shamrock said:
Nano-oil is the way to go for the pivot. I use Tuff-Glide or Eezox strictly for rust prevention on the blade, they don't seem to work as well for lubrication. For spring assisted blades I use a generic white lithium grease with teflon for lubing the spring.
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Ten4leader said:
Mainy going to be useing for my pivot. So should I go with blue?
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I personally strongly prefer Eezox over the Blue Lube as I think Eezox Knife Care does the same functions of the Blue Lube, but better, for less money, with less gunk buildup over usage, and with only one product being used. I don't find the Blue Lube to last notably long, I don't think it retains-->lubricates well in the areas with the most friction, and I find it to be prone to "oil migration". As a general rule, it is more expensive than Eezox, which I consider to be a better product.

The earlier Blue Lube was more or less Militec-1, which is a terrible product compared to the many better oils on the market. The newer lube is something different and much better, but I still strongly prefer Eezox over it. As others have noted, it's still not a top-pick for pivots and I try not to use it in that application. Something like Nano oil, Frog Lube, RIG, Extreme Fluoro, a fluoropolymer, etc. is arguably more appropriate for that specific application. I think those types of lubricants are better at reducing actual wear, which is the primary purpose of lubricating the pivot.


For corrosion resistance, I do not think any common product compares to Eezox, and my own usage caused me to switch over from TuffGlide as the Eeezox just did a better job. Despite being a true dry lube, I find it gives reasonably good lubrication. The below tests also shows how Eezox remains on metal over extended time durations and environmental exposure to humidity/water, as well as how few of lubricants actually do this. Many people are often surprised by the results.
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1236786
http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5457.0
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
 
Is it food safe?
pnsxyr said:
I personally strongly prefer Eezox over the Blue Lube as I think Eezox Knife Care does the same functions of the Blue Lube, but better, for less money, with less gunk buildup over usage, and with only one product being used. I don't find the Blue Lube to last notably long, I don't think it retains-->lubricates well in the areas with the most friction, and I find it to be prone to "oil migration". As a general rule, it is more expensive than Eezox, which I consider to be a better product.

The earlier Blue Lube was more or less Militec-1, which is a terrible product compared to the many better oils on the market. The newer lube is something different and much better, but I still strongly prefer Eezox over it. As others have noted, it's still not a top-pick for pivots and I try not to use it in that application. Something like Nano oil, Frog Lube, RIG, Extreme Fluoro, a fluoropolymer, etc. is arguably more appropriate for that specific application. I think those types of lubricants are better at reducing actual wear, which is the primary purpose of lubricating the pivot.


For corrosion resistance, I do not think any common product compares to Eezox, and my own usage caused me to switch over from TuffGlide as the Eeezox just did a better job. Despite being a true dry lube, I find it gives reasonably good lubrication. The below tests also shows how Eezox remains on metal over extended time durations and environmental exposure to humidity/water, as well as how few of lubricants actually do this. Many people are often surprised by the results.
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1236786
http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5457.0
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
Click to expand...
 
It's not that crucial. I won't fall for the nano-diamond fad, and use BM bluelube, or some tri-flow. Nylatron washers don't need lube, Bronze washers may or may not, but a drop doesn't hurt.
 
dano said:
It's not that crucial. I won't fall for the nano-diamond fad, and use BM bluelube, or some tri-flow. Nylatron washers don't need lube, Bronze washers may or may not, but a drop doesn't hurt.
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+1

Blue Lube does the job very well.....
 
For pivots: rinse under hot water, chase the water off with rubbing alcohol, blow drier, graphite dust ( from Ace ), open and close several times, warm the knife with the drier and add a drop or two of light oil. Suppose you could try olive oil.
 
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